DIY Front/Rear Airmatic Struts


Jacking it up from the pumpkin
Use wheel chocks in the front
Modified jack stand


Now remove the anti rattle clip with a screwdriver. Remove the caliper now and hang it somewhere. Next remove the inner fender liner. There are 4 plastic 10mm nuts holding it on along with 2 plastic rivets
Removing the dust cap
#7 allen head socket
Compressing caliper
Removing anti rattle clip... also remove the brake pad sensor wire


Pull plastic piece down
Snake it through and remove


No fender liner
OBD port is located under the dash next to the hood latch release
Obd
OBD hooked up
Hooked to multiplexer aka Mux


Pick the strut you want to evacuate. In my case it was the RR strut. Press the - button until all the air is out. Now after this do not start the car or air will enter the strut again. For good measure I also removed the relay to the compressor. You can find how to do that in my diy on removing the airmatic compressor. Now that the strut is evacuated you start dismantling the strut. I did the electrical connection first.


Almost evacuated
Next remove the electrical connector. Start at the strut ans start removing it from the harness. Then you will see a connection block. First remove the circlip from the connection block. Then remove the bottom 2 connectors. They are clipped together. The bottom red one is ABS wheel speed sensor top blue one the is the airmatic strut
Unclip from here
Theres a ridiculous amount of dust!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG


Bottom 2 connectors are clipped together and need to be taken out together
Use a pick or suitable pry tool
Clip is off. Do not lose it !
Connectors are clipped together. Just unclip them. The blue is from the airmatic red is abs sensor


Panel removed. Angle it and remove out of the car


Access hole for strut.
There are 3 13mm nuts that hold the strut in on the top. 2 are accessiblr with a ratchet and the one is off the side and buried under there. For that one you need a box wrench and just angle it and loosen
First accesible bolt facing the back of the car
2nd accessible bolt facing the front of the car. Its alittle tight to get this one but not bad. Just remove the foam
This one is not accessible with a ratchet. This one requires a 13mm box wrench place it at an angle. Be careful not to strip it if it wont move.


Cutting 2 lines into the socket
Finished product.
Hand removed it once it broke free.




Unfortunately i had to do it this way. Nothing i had would fit this. It was a weird 12point. Not even an allen head would fit.
With the linkage off I could now pivot the assbly


Now pull down on the control arm. It will get caught up from the bottom of the sway bar link and another carrier linkage. You have to pivot the carrier back forth and pull down on the control arm at the same time. I did it myself so I had no extra arms for a pic. Sorry. The control arm will wiggle down and then be free to pry down
Then remove the old strut


Now for the even funner part. After tightening everything time to reattach that linkage we removed. In order to tod that pry the linkage down and pull the carrier assembly up and insert bolt. Try jacking up on the carrier assembly alittle. And then pry the linkage down. You might have to finagle it to get them to align. The bolt wont go right in, you have to thread it. If you pound it in im not sure if that will ruin the threads in the shaft and throw alignment off. Do not fully tighten this yet, just put the nut on snug after you thread the bolt into the shaft. It needs to be fully tightened at ride height.
New strut installed

Ride height
Last edited by Nickthegreek; Jun 25, 2015 at 11:43 PM.


Remove the black rubber seal on the fitting
On the new strut you remove that little black plastic plug with a 10mm socket. The bigger cap is left alone. Wait until the strut is installed in the car to remove the plug to avoid dirt falling in<br/>




then lift the car again and remove the wheel. Put a jack under the wheel carrier and jack it up until the body begins to raise off the jackstand. This is ride height. Now tighten the linkage nut. Ok now lower the car onto the jackstand and install the fender liner. Install wheel again and torque. Enjoy your new ride and the money you saved. Hoepfully the fronts will be easier than the rears. When all is said and done it will have costed 541 bucks to do this DIY. Also on youtube you see people doing it without xentry but i think it is an absolute requirement. I had all kinds of faults and warnings on my dash afterwards like EPS ABS from removing the cable. I would say this is for the more advanced DIYer who knows their way around Xentry. So far so good. Now im going to send back my old strut. Well see how the new one holds up
Last edited by Nickthegreek; Jun 24, 2015 at 11:55 AM.



Also another note... having the right amount of workspace is very important also. I wish I had a bigger garage. When i buy a house next year a large garage with a scissor lift will be on my bucket list !
Last edited by Nickthegreek; Jun 25, 2015 at 11:51 PM.






