How long to wait for oil change?
#26
Super Member
If you don't put a lot of miles on your car and it takes full synthetic, how long is it acceptable to wait to change the oil? As of now I have about 8,000 since last oil change, but was having a discussion with a friend how long you can wait? Say you only do 5,000 miles a year for example. How long can you wait?
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
#28
Junior Member
Oil Change/Road Side Assistance
I change the oil in my vehicle about once every 6000-7000 miles or about twice a year.
For W221 and other Mercedes owners who are outside of the warranty period, the other thing to consider is Mercedes Roadside Assistance. The rules changed a few years ago and my understanding is that you need to spend above a certain threshold annually with Mercedes to qualify for roadside assistance. Roadside assistance came in really handy when the starter battery died over a year ago. So paying the dealer $200 to change the oil, even if it is premature, helps to maintain the MB roadside coverage.
For W221 and other Mercedes owners who are outside of the warranty period, the other thing to consider is Mercedes Roadside Assistance. The rules changed a few years ago and my understanding is that you need to spend above a certain threshold annually with Mercedes to qualify for roadside assistance. Roadside assistance came in really handy when the starter battery died over a year ago. So paying the dealer $200 to change the oil, even if it is premature, helps to maintain the MB roadside coverage.
come from??? First time heard here!
#30
Senior Member
http://www.mercedesroadside.com/road...y-and-coverage
The footnote states...
*Roadside Assistance will be offered on vehicles which have received at least $100.00 in customer pay services at an Authorized Mercedes-Benz Dealer prior to 1/1/2014, provided that the request for Roadside Assistance is made within 18 months of said services.
Note that these terms were dated as of January 2014 and hence the specified dates. They even state a requirement for the purchase of any MB car prior to 2011 to be from a Mercedes dealership. When I called for MB Roadside for the dead starter battery, I think they were able to check their database to see that the vehicle was purchased from a local MB dealership.
Perhaps this change came about because it was costing MB some coins for all the old W126's, W123's, and R107's still on the road, requiring some form of roadside assistance under the old lifetime policy.
Last edited by KNBS550; 09-15-2015 at 02:42 AM.
#32
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Mercedes official maint says every 10k. But 12k isn't going to hurt anything.
http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalA...ce_Booklet.pdf
http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalA...ce_Booklet.pdf
#33
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
For those that change their own oil, do you use a Mercedes oil filter? I will probably just drain it like my other cars. I think dealer sucks it out.
#34
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2010 S350 Diamond White AMG Styling, slightly lowered
Cheapest maintenance you can do on a car that will provide the best protection to the engine. Too early and it is a waste of money, too late and potential engine problems such as different compression rates in the cylinders etc etc. So why take the risk.
#35
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
24.00 and sent it to them in a special bottle for touch up paint and put it in a plastic bag and shipped it for 1.75 via US mail and they got it in 2 days and I had the result by the third day via email.
If you drive 8K miles in 18 months I would just go the full 10K miles even if its 24 months and I can bet you it will just be at the point it will need to finally be changed. Only Synthetic oils can work correctly. Regular oil over a years time will absorb moisture and contaminates plus I don't think any Mercedes uses non synthetic oil any longer. Remember the days back in the late 90's early 2000's when they were not using Synthetic and they were having engine sludge issues and rebuilding engines as fast as they could make cars. The use of Synthetic oils stopped all those issues.
As for the results it tell you EVERYTHING. All trace elements and what is normal and what is below normal and mine had virtually no trace elements from the engine metals. The only thing that showed slight traces was Aluminum and that is what the pistons are made of. That small trace amount was from the wrist pin from what I have been told, not the actual wear of the piston from ignition. There was NO chromium which is from the rings, no brass which is from the bearings, no titanium, no water, no unburned fuel, no anti-freeze. Its a LONG list of metals . It showed the oil has Zinc in it and it showed the oil has all different types of detergents. It was very interesting. I had to read what each element was and what it was used for. Worth every penny. Remember, the car came from Palm Spring and is here now, so it was driven in EXTREME heat for 4 years and the oil was still ok. Most people will never see this type of extreme heat, so their oil wont take this kind of abuse.
If you drive 8K miles in 18 months I would just go the full 10K miles even if its 24 months and I can bet you it will just be at the point it will need to finally be changed. Only Synthetic oils can work correctly. Regular oil over a years time will absorb moisture and contaminates plus I don't think any Mercedes uses non synthetic oil any longer. Remember the days back in the late 90's early 2000's when they were not using Synthetic and they were having engine sludge issues and rebuilding engines as fast as they could make cars. The use of Synthetic oils stopped all those issues.
As for the results it tell you EVERYTHING. All trace elements and what is normal and what is below normal and mine had virtually no trace elements from the engine metals. The only thing that showed slight traces was Aluminum and that is what the pistons are made of. That small trace amount was from the wrist pin from what I have been told, not the actual wear of the piston from ignition. There was NO chromium which is from the rings, no brass which is from the bearings, no titanium, no water, no unburned fuel, no anti-freeze. Its a LONG list of metals . It showed the oil has Zinc in it and it showed the oil has all different types of detergents. It was very interesting. I had to read what each element was and what it was used for. Worth every penny. Remember, the car came from Palm Spring and is here now, so it was driven in EXTREME heat for 4 years and the oil was still ok. Most people will never see this type of extreme heat, so their oil wont take this kind of abuse.
Last edited by Jason B; 12-16-2015 at 08:01 AM.
#37
Super Member
#38
As I have always said miles not time. I have gone 8 years between oil changes with full synthetic Mobil 1 and that wa with a total of 800 miles driven but the car gets run every month for 20 minutes.
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MBruto (10-15-2016)
#41
MBWorld Fanatic!
Its true that MB says 10k, but I notice a difference when using mobil1 full synthetic at 3k/4k/5k. Both apperence of color and the smell is stronger with each thousand miles over 3-4k.
I may be wrong, but I can feel a difference in the running and shifting of my car after 4k miles w/o oil change.
My future MB will have more than 100k miles on it. Through the modes that I'm purchasing through, my MB will most likely have no service records to be had(unless they were stored inside the car). Meaning, I have no way of knowing how the car was cared for before I own it. Thus, I use extra care and maintenance to keep everything running the best it can. More than likely the previous owner would not have cared for it like I will. If he/she did, then I lucked in.
This is my thoughts around why I change so soon.
I may be wrong, but I can feel a difference in the running and shifting of my car after 4k miles w/o oil change.
My future MB will have more than 100k miles on it. Through the modes that I'm purchasing through, my MB will most likely have no service records to be had(unless they were stored inside the car). Meaning, I have no way of knowing how the car was cared for before I own it. Thus, I use extra care and maintenance to keep everything running the best it can. More than likely the previous owner would not have cared for it like I will. If he/she did, then I lucked in.
This is my thoughts around why I change so soon.
#42
Junior Member
The best approach to engine and transmission maintenance should be evidence-based. The manufacturers recommendations are based upon this approach. Statistically, one should be safe with these guidelines.
For the individual, a car may fall out of the statistical curve. Factors may be failures of oil, maintenance interval, antifreeze contamination, air filter contamination, internal component breakdown, moisture, and on and on. So a change in the oil maintenance interval may neither identify or prevent an engine/transmission failure.
I would start with the manufacturers recommended service intervals and have a sample of the used fluids analyzed by a lab, such as Blackstone Laboratory in Fort Wayne, IN. The cost is about $38 with TBN levels.
For the individual, a car may fall out of the statistical curve. Factors may be failures of oil, maintenance interval, antifreeze contamination, air filter contamination, internal component breakdown, moisture, and on and on. So a change in the oil maintenance interval may neither identify or prevent an engine/transmission failure.
I would start with the manufacturers recommended service intervals and have a sample of the used fluids analyzed by a lab, such as Blackstone Laboratory in Fort Wayne, IN. The cost is about $38 with TBN levels.
#44
Junior Member
A 5k service interval is nice if it includes a full inspection, tire rotation, and filters. For some drivers, it may be the only time anything is checked under the hood.
#45
MBWorld Fanatic!
I also exchange 1-2q. of tranny oil every third oil change. Just to flow out metal shavings and the piece of mind as I'm already under the hood.
I'm going to get the oil tested! Thats a brilliant idea for learning contamination levels and which components are "grinding" most.
I'm going to get the oil tested! Thats a brilliant idea for learning contamination levels and which components are "grinding" most.
#46
Its true that MB says 10k, but I notice a difference when using mobil1 full synthetic at 3k/4k/5k. Both apperence of color and the smell is stronger with each thousand miles over 3-4k.
I may be wrong, but I can feel a difference in the running and shifting of my car after 4k miles w/o oil change.
My future MB will have more than 100k miles on it. Through the modes that I'm purchasing through, my MB will most likely have no service records to be had(unless they were stored inside the car). Meaning, I have no way of knowing how the car was cared for before I own it. Thus, I use extra care and maintenance to keep everything running the best it can. More than likely the previous owner would not have cared for it like I will. If he/she did, then I lucked in.
This is my thoughts around why I change so soon.
I may be wrong, but I can feel a difference in the running and shifting of my car after 4k miles w/o oil change.
My future MB will have more than 100k miles on it. Through the modes that I'm purchasing through, my MB will most likely have no service records to be had(unless they were stored inside the car). Meaning, I have no way of knowing how the car was cared for before I own it. Thus, I use extra care and maintenance to keep everything running the best it can. More than likely the previous owner would not have cared for it like I will. If he/she did, then I lucked in.
This is my thoughts around why I change so soon.
#47
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm a believer in long life through early fluid replacements and preventative maintenance.
Doing changes early keeps me in tune with my car. Because I'm already working on the car it gives me a few minutes to check everything. (no rusting, new dings/chips, undercarriage dirt, engine bay dirt, I make sure no hoses/Bolts have begun to come loose.
Doing so gives me great peace of mind that the vehicle I drive is in a good stance to serve me for the life of my ownership.
I also drive very carefully(I give the car more than 50% throttle 1-2 times a month(to overtake someone going dangerously slow). I take corners like a typical European driver ensuring my tires/suspension/bushings last as long as possible.
I think every 'Cedes owner in my category should follow this method to save money and get the most out of their product. I only "Drive it like I stole it" when I'm not the one suffering the consequences.
Doing changes early keeps me in tune with my car. Because I'm already working on the car it gives me a few minutes to check everything. (no rusting, new dings/chips, undercarriage dirt, engine bay dirt, I make sure no hoses/Bolts have begun to come loose.
Doing so gives me great peace of mind that the vehicle I drive is in a good stance to serve me for the life of my ownership.
I also drive very carefully(I give the car more than 50% throttle 1-2 times a month(to overtake someone going dangerously slow). I take corners like a typical European driver ensuring my tires/suspension/bushings last as long as possible.
I think every 'Cedes owner in my category should follow this method to save money and get the most out of their product. I only "Drive it like I stole it" when I'm not the one suffering the consequences.
Last edited by mercedesbenzs55; 12-31-2015 at 02:15 PM.
#48
I also drive very carefully(I give the car more than 50% throttle 1-2 times a month(to overtake someone going dangerously slow). I take corners like a typical European driver ensuring my tires/suspension/bushings last as long as possible.
I think every 'Cedes owner in my category should follow this method to save money and get the most out of their product. I only "Drive it like I stole it" when I'm not the one suffering the consequences.
Hd
#49
Well, I don't do it to save money. I do it to save the environment. Also, any article you read says that full Synthetic's have NO viscosity break downs and my lab results proved that. I am more of a based on science guy, than a gut feeling kind of guy. Also, we here in Ca have the most stringent emission laws in the world and if your oil is loaded with hydrocarbons, it shows up on the testing. My emissions results were almost 0 on every reading. Changing the oil early is a waste of money and the environment, that is fact not fiction. I do not begrudge anyone who feels differently. It's not my life and I have no business telling others, what they should and shouldn't do. I just try and inform them of facts not fiction.
When I was younger and oil was paraffin based, oils should have always been changed every 3K miles. Now that they are so full of detergents and are Synthetic those days are gone, the old school thinking has gone away with the Walkman.
Example my 19K mile Eldo convertible only had a few oil changes and sat for most of its life, in a museum. Well, the car was 100% original but it ran like crap. Well, I took it out for a long drive and when I got home the car was running so poorly and so rough, it was missing like it only had 7 cylinders. The lifters were making a horrific noise and I thought something had broken inside the engine. So, I decided to remove the valve covers. OMG, the oil had turned in hard crusty carbon. The rocker arms had actual wholes in them, and no wet oil was present on the top half of the motor. I took the intake off and replace the lifters, with NOS ones and the old ones were literally concaved from lack of oil. The push rods had burs on them and almost all the rocker arms were worn though. I bought a set of NOS pushrods and a set of NOS rocker arms. Cleaned out the entire engine (which took weeks of scrapping) and put everything back. The car now runs like a sewing machine (smooth and quiet) and when I was done I put in Mobil 1 synthetic oil and have never had a problem since.
New oils aren't what old oils once were plus the fact cars engines today have such low tolerances that blow by is a thing of the past, so contamination isn't a factor.
When I was younger and oil was paraffin based, oils should have always been changed every 3K miles. Now that they are so full of detergents and are Synthetic those days are gone, the old school thinking has gone away with the Walkman.
Example my 19K mile Eldo convertible only had a few oil changes and sat for most of its life, in a museum. Well, the car was 100% original but it ran like crap. Well, I took it out for a long drive and when I got home the car was running so poorly and so rough, it was missing like it only had 7 cylinders. The lifters were making a horrific noise and I thought something had broken inside the engine. So, I decided to remove the valve covers. OMG, the oil had turned in hard crusty carbon. The rocker arms had actual wholes in them, and no wet oil was present on the top half of the motor. I took the intake off and replace the lifters, with NOS ones and the old ones were literally concaved from lack of oil. The push rods had burs on them and almost all the rocker arms were worn though. I bought a set of NOS pushrods and a set of NOS rocker arms. Cleaned out the entire engine (which took weeks of scrapping) and put everything back. The car now runs like a sewing machine (smooth and quiet) and when I was done I put in Mobil 1 synthetic oil and have never had a problem since.
New oils aren't what old oils once were plus the fact cars engines today have such low tolerances that blow by is a thing of the past, so contamination isn't a factor.
Last edited by 2014CL600; 01-01-2016 at 02:19 PM.
#50
MBWorld Fanatic!
I'm going to get my oil tested after 4k miles and see what they say. You are right about no breakdown in synthetic. What happens to the oil when its put out on the street during garbage day?
I commend you for doing your own work 2014.
I commend you for doing your own work 2014.