2008 S550 Alternator Issue & other repairs at 100k
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Palos Verdes, California
2008 S550
2008 S550 Alternator Issue & other repairs at 100k
Hi all,
I had someone diagnose an issue to be my alternator. I will be ordering a new replacement alternator and taking it to my mechanic to install in the next week or so. I am approaching 100k miles (Just at 97k) officially. Besides oil changes every 3k, and some strut changes, I have not replaced many other components of the vehicle. I have done spark replacement, new tires, new battery, and that is basically it.
Any suggestions for what I should be updating at the 100k mark? I've heard control arms, among other items should be replaced. Please advise.
Thanks!
I had someone diagnose an issue to be my alternator. I will be ordering a new replacement alternator and taking it to my mechanic to install in the next week or so. I am approaching 100k miles (Just at 97k) officially. Besides oil changes every 3k, and some strut changes, I have not replaced many other components of the vehicle. I have done spark replacement, new tires, new battery, and that is basically it.
Any suggestions for what I should be updating at the 100k mark? I've heard control arms, among other items should be replaced. Please advise.
Thanks!
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 713
Likes: 147
From: Aridzona
'15 S550, '10 E350 P1/P2, '02 ML320
My experience with Mercedes for the past 30 years has been ... since the introduction of aluminum water pumps and radiators with plastic tank ends, they both seem to be good for about 100k miles. So, I will replace the engine water hoses, thermostat, water pump and radiator at 100k. Two times previous to this practice I've had failures @ 103k and 109k miles. This could be because I live in the desert, but it just keeps me from being stranded when it's 110F outside.
Suspension parts come to mind as well, but they are easier to figure out and visually inspect for wear.
Suspension parts come to mind as well, but they are easier to figure out and visually inspect for wear.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 724
Likes: 219
From: Brooklyn, NY
2007 S550 4Matic 2013 S550 Base
Temperature control valve at the rear of the engine if original should be replaced since it will fail. It's a plastic part that becomes brittle and inevitably breaks apart or fails.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Palos Verdes, California
2008 S550
Update
So I replaced my alternator with a Bosch Re-furb. I also replaced the CAMSHAFT adjustor solenoids because I hear those can be a pain eventually. I also replaced the cylinder head caps. I also changed out the CRANKSHAFT position sensors as well.
My mechanic called me to say that the aluminum oil housing was leaking and needed replaced, so had to have that done. Also, my intake manifold stopped working so he had to replace that as well. All in all, turned out to be a 3k visit to the shop.
The issue is, the COMAND unit is still not working - do you think the broken alternator caused a short and broke the COMAND permanently or maybe just shorted a fuse? The AC shows up on the COMAND unit, and it is flashing the Mercedes sign upon startup - but there is no audio, navigation or access to COMAND information.
Lastly, the check engine light just came on my way home from the shop, lol. So I'll be back to have him fix it permanently.
My mechanic called me to say that the aluminum oil housing was leaking and needed replaced, so had to have that done. Also, my intake manifold stopped working so he had to replace that as well. All in all, turned out to be a 3k visit to the shop.
The issue is, the COMAND unit is still not working - do you think the broken alternator caused a short and broke the COMAND permanently or maybe just shorted a fuse? The AC shows up on the COMAND unit, and it is flashing the Mercedes sign upon startup - but there is no audio, navigation or access to COMAND information.
Lastly, the check engine light just came on my way home from the shop, lol. So I'll be back to have him fix it permanently.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 15,901
Likes: 4,632
From: North Scottsdale, AZ
'71 Pinto
Could have been triggered by low battery condition. Assuming both batteries are fully charged especially supply battery in trunk you can attempt a reset by pulling 104 @ left instrument panel for amplifier in trunk. Have independent pull fault codes/run diagnostics using Xentry (MB diagnostics).
