Indy shop shocker
Like I said, these are mostly little things. I know the suspension issue needs attention before I start blowing ABC lines, so that's about the most urgent. The coolant thing is a major annoyance, but as noted it never happens when driving -- only when it sits overnight AFTER having been driven.
After a week I got a call from the mechanic with their quote to sort out everything. It was (I swear I’m not making this up) $14,319.86. Fourteen grand and change. I had to laugh. I picked up the car, paid them for a couple hours of shop labor to do the diagnosis, and went through their estimate line by line. It's bloody astonishing. The markup on parts alone would be a few thousand of that number, and over half is for work that doesn't even need to be done.
I broke down the stuff on my blog (see it here), and will keep it updated as I do the work that is needed. Saturday my son and I knocked out the rear brakes, at a total cost of $188 (including shipping and tax) and three hours of our time. I've got parts coming in this week to do most of the rest, and a service bay with a lift reserved for this coming weekend.
Last edited by MBNUT1; Aug 19, 2020 at 03:48 PM.
At the current rate, my time has worked out to being worth about $891.00 per hour. My attorney doesn't make that much.

That reminds me: what do you call 7 attorneys up to their necks in cement? Not enough cement
We did a trip last year that took 8 days and covered 3000 miles through the Southwest. That experience led us to choose this year's trip, and we were confident enough that we'd do it again that we bought an annual National Parks pass. Once again the car was supremely quiet and comfortable, and utterly reliable. I took along the OBD scanner as well as the DAS laptop and adapter, just because I had just finished a lot of work on the car. I never had to pull out either one. I did pop the hood a couple of days ago to check the coolant levels, since I'd had both the main and intercooler circuits opened up and coolant changed, but neither circuit lost a drop.
What a wonderful, wonderful car to own and drive.
Last edited by DaleB; Aug 29, 2020 at 09:43 AM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I already replaced the front and rear accumulators and the pulsation damper. Of those, I know for sure the front accumulator was bad. I dumped about half a liter of hydraulic fluid out of it after removing it, it was full -- meaning the diaphragm had ruptured. The rear was probably OK. I know the pump (power steering, ABC, tandem, whatever your preferred term may be) is leaking somewhat and will need to be replaced. I found a thread from this board discussing a possible defective relief valve inside the pump, but I don't know for sure that's the problem. What caught my eye was the discussion of the results of the rodeo test. I believe, based on my recollection from when I did the rodeo test on mine, that the ABC pressure stayed pretty constant close to 195 bar. I'll have to run it again to confirm. At the time I thought it was a good thing, but after reading some of the threads here I wonder if it might actually be pointing to a problem. Of course this is all just the opinions and ideas of SGOTI, I really need to read up and get a better understanding of exactly how the ABC system works and the correct behavior when testing. I've read through this document a couple of times, but of course I don't have a lot of experience with ABC -- so some things are still unclear, and the document may or may not be completely accurate.
It will all have to wait a few more days. I have replacement capacitors for the ignition voltage transformer on the way from Mouser. When I removed the caps, two of them showed definite signs of leakage. Fortunately it wasn't enough to damage the PCB. I decided to replace all of the large electrolytics with new ones, all of which are at least a little better than what they are replacing. Once that is done and the engine can be started again, I can dig deeper into the ABC system.




They used a potting compound that makes it slightly inconvenient to DIY a repair, but it's not too terrible. I've been doing electronic repairs and some manufacturing since the late 1970s, so this is really no big deal for me. Just a little bit of an inconvenient time for my 1990s vintage Weller soldering station to go TU, but thanks to the magic of Amazon I'll have that fixed tomorrow as well. The power supply is still working, I just suspect some sagging or ripple under load. We'll see if the new caps fixes it, or not. If not - on to the next suspect.
Last edited by DaleB; Sep 27, 2020 at 03:28 PM.











