S-Class (W221) 2007-2013: S 320 CDI, S 350, S 450, S 500, S 550, S 420 CDI, S 600

W221 Rear suspension

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Old Sep 20, 2020 | 11:50 PM
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W221 Rear suspension

Hello I’m new here, just wondering if I could get some help! I have an 2013 w221 and one side in the rear sits lower than the other . I was told to buy an valve solenoid, have the dealer reprogram the shock and or just replace it !.. at this point I’m it sure what to do and I don’t to put money where is not needed!... Someone please help!
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Old Sep 21, 2020 | 05:07 AM
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get a proper diagnosis or you'll be down 3k and still have the fault

a good easy fix to improve reliability ( if its airmatic) is to fit 3 new level sensor link rods, the fronts or the one rear could be seized (its normal)

Last edited by BOTUS; Sep 21, 2020 at 05:09 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2020 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
get a proper diagnosis or you'll be down 3k and still have the fault

a good easy fix to improve reliability ( if its airmatic) is to fit 3 new level sensor link rods, the fronts or the one rear could be seized (its normal)
If there is only one level sensor in the rear the both sides would go down if the issue is with the level sensor. It could be the solenoid valve but more likely leaking spring.
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Old Sep 23, 2020 | 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Arrie
If there is only one level sensor in the rear the both sides would go down if the issue is with the level sensor. It could be the solenoid valve but more likely leaking spring.
NO because side to side is controlled by the front.... so a seized sensor on the front left could do it... or indeed the system is getting garbage from any of them.

they seize up in an impressive way when your back is turned. you can be sure they are moving nicely and lubricate.... then within 4 months of checking / lubricating seize solid and snap the light weight metal fixing bracket till the sensor falls and the car drops to the floor unmovable. My rear was so bad even with two pairs of grips trying to manipulate the plastic ball joint on to the mild steel ball it wont move at all.... and when they did them all they said one of the fronts was gone too

Not saying its the cause, but a sticky one wont help diagnosis and you can't drive with it slammed on the deck

Last edited by BOTUS; Sep 23, 2020 at 04:01 AM.
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
NO because side to side is controlled by the front.... so a seized sensor on the front left could do it... or indeed the system is getting garbage from any of them.

they seize up in an impressive way when your back is turned. you can be sure they are moving nicely and lubricate.... then within 4 months of checking / lubricating seize solid and snap the light weight metal fixing bracket till the sensor falls and the car drops to the floor unmovable. My rear was so bad even with two pairs of grips trying to manipulate the plastic ball joint on to the mild steel ball it wont move at all.... and when they did them all they said one of the fronts was gone too

Not saying its the cause, but a sticky one wont help diagnosis and you can't drive with it slammed on the deck
The rod connecting to the sensor snapped on my CL (rear right hand side), but manually turning the sensor seems to only result in the car being slammed to the floor, or raised up very high. I'm guessing the sensor has packed up too.

Interestingly the front left is doing the opposite of whatever the rear right is now doing. Thoughts welcome!
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 09:36 AM
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the sensor doesn't sit at either extreme (even when fully laden or jacked up on the dash button) its sit in the middle and wobbles about a little bit

if the link rod snaps the arm will likely fall down (informing the car its too high) - so it throws away all the air and slams the car on the ground....
VERY carefully you can remove the left rear wheel reach with a long screw driver or such... finding a way to get the sensor midway.... it will pump itself back up, then disable the stupid system so it locks the air in till you can get to a garage and replace it

should have been a recall - to rewrite the software.... Oh the reading is garbage do nothing throw the error and stay safe... or oh no variation in the sensor data, what's happening do nothing throw the error...
but of course its designed to get loads of money for Mercedes, not make a safe car. so design the rod to snap off, and write the software to say implausible data from the level sensor slam to the ground and show me the MONEY $$$$$
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
the sensor doesn't sit at either extreme (even when fully laden or jacked up on the dash button) its sit in the middle and wobbles about a little bit

if the link rod snaps the arm will likely fall down (informing the car its too high) - so it throws away all the air and slams the car on the ground....
VERY carefully you can remove the left rear wheel reach with a long screw driver or such... finding a way to get the sensor midway.... it will pump itself back up, then disable the stupid system so it locks the air in till you can get to a garage and replace it

should have been a recall - to rewrite the software.... Oh the reading is garbage do nothing throw the error and stay safe... or oh no variation in the sensor data, what's happening do nothing throw the error...
but of course its designed to get loads of money for Mercedes, not make a safe car. so design the rod to snap off, and write the software to say implausible data from the level sensor slam to the ground and show me the MONEY $$$$$
Thanks for replying. I can reach the arm with a piece of wire, but no matter whether I turn it a lot or only a little, I only get fully up or fully down.

I've sourced a new rod (£16 from Merc) and have found an old sensor from another CL so will get them both put on soon. Will I need to get the system / software reset once the parts are back on?
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 10:01 AM
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changing the rear is a nasty job.... that bracket is a nightmare. FYI you should NOT unbond the anti roll bar bushes to get at the sensor you'll get noises. try and undo the whole arm and find clearance without taking off the car completely - you might be able to attach the level sensor bracket that way

the fronts are probably seized as well
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
changing the rear is a nasty job.... that bracket is a nightmare. FYI you should NOT unbond the anti roll bar bushes to get at the sensor you'll get noises. try and undo the whole arm and find clearance without taking off the car completely - you might be able to attach the level sensor bracket that way

the fronts are probably seized as well
Good info - I wasn't planning on going near the anti roll bar bushes!! The sensor rod looks straight forward. Was hoping the sensor was a straight swap whilst leaving the existing bracket in place.
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by funkstar
Good info - I wasn't planning on going near the anti roll bar bushes!! The sensor rod looks straight forward. Was hoping the sensor was a straight swap whilst leaving the existing bracket in place.
If I was you I would first just replace the sensor rod and then let car run for awhile to see if it levels itself. It may take a moment for the car to read and adjust the new reading from the sensor. If not, then I would disconnect battery for 15 min and do the same. Perhaps disconnecting battery makes car to reset the levels?

Then, if none above helps, proceed with the sensor replacement.
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by funkstar
Good info - I wasn't planning on going near the anti roll bar bushes!! The sensor rod looks straight forward. Was hoping the sensor was a straight swap whilst leaving the existing bracket in place.

its the bracket that snaps - the ***** seize, the flimsy bracketry takes the strain then dies !!!!
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Old Oct 5, 2020 | 02:00 PM
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Thanks for the advice and thoughts guys - I can't get under the car right now but hope to at the weekend. I'll report back on whether it's been a success or not.
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Old Oct 6, 2020 | 09:42 PM
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does anyone on here know where can purchase a w221 OEM rear level sensor bracket and level sensor?
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Old Oct 7, 2020 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by vance777
does anyone on here know where can purchase a w221 OEM rear level sensor bracket and level sensor?
Mercedes dealerships have them. Plenty of sensors on amazon too from china - no idea if they're any good though.

The parts references for my CL500 are at this link:

https://www.ilcats.ru/mercedes/?func...80&language=en

The website should have a similar parts catalogue for the S Class, which is likely to share parts with the CL.
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Old Oct 12, 2020 | 12:38 PM
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Update - after my rear link connecting to the level sensor failed I replaced it. Seems to have almost solved the problem.

Before the repair the car would jack up 3 corners by approx 4 inches and slam to the ground the 4th corner. The link had snapped. £16 part from Mercedes. Only a few 10mm bolts to remove to access it. Final bolt was rusted in place and very hard to reach, and took an hour to free. Putting it all back together was a 10 min job.

Car now drives ok and all corners are almost spot on, though one corner is about an inch out. I have a sensor on order, will swap that out to see if that's the final piece in the jigsaw.
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Old Oct 12, 2020 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by funkstar
Update - after my rear link connecting to the level sensor failed I replaced it. Seems to have almost solved the problem.

Putting it all back together was a 10 min job.
.
the bit on the anti-roll bar that snaps on a 221? if thats the case you should get a job at a Merc dealer they'd love some one that could it to manu spec in 10 mins...
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Old Oct 12, 2020 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTUS
the bit on the anti-roll bar that snaps on a 221? if thats the case you should get a job at a Merc dealer they'd love some one that could it to manu spec in 10 mins...
We must be talking about different parts. I replaced the bar in the picture below by only removing the bar (labelled 100) and the sensor (180). Left the brackets alone (110 and 150) as they weren't damaged. Getting the bolt in red off was a pain as it's up against the suspension and hard to reach, and very rusty.


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Old Oct 13, 2020 | 12:29 PM
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I just had the same problem,I replaced both shocks problem fixed
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Old Oct 13, 2020 | 01:37 PM
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not sure that's the correct drawing.... but lets go with it. 110 is the bit that breaks and is almost impossible to fit on the rear anti-roll bar.... it gets stressed when the ball joints on part 100 seize and must be replaced
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