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Replaced front front lower control arms, thinking it would help my car from pulling to the right, didn't fix it (still working through that) also noticed driver's side front front lower control arm was gouged out from sway bar contact. Now replacement front front lower control arm has the same gouge. Is my sway bar bent? Replaced sway bar end links and sway bar bushings look okay.
Replaced front front lower control arms, thinking it would help my car from pulling to the right, didn't fix it (still working through that) also noticed driver's side front front lower control arm was gouged out from sway bar contact. Now replacement front front lower control arm has the same gouge. Is my sway bar bent? Replaced sway bar end links and sway bar bushings look okay.
I assume the “front front” lower control arm means the forward one of the arms?
Your problem with pulling is the alignment problem, which likely is result of the worn lower control arm ball joint on the rearward arm, which is the one where the air strut connects to making it to the load bearing control arm. Forward arm are called camper arms. They keep the wheels in alignment but do not carry vehicle weight and this is why these ball joints seldom wear.
I have no idea how the sway bar could reach either control arm if the link is in place.
Also replaced rearward lower control arm at the same time. Collision only occurs at full droop. So yes I unnecessarily replace both front front lower control arms. Discovered right air strut is bad. Weird, holds air on compression but rebound vents. IE while I'm jacking up just loud whoosh of air. Replacement on order, hopefully that will cure my pulling to the right issue.
I would suspect it vents when you jack up the car because the sensor thinks it is too high because of too much air.
Sounds to me like it is working as designed.
Tom
Last edited by jbarhorst; 10-11-2021 at 08:54 AM.
Reason: spelling error
I would suspect it vents when you jack up the car because the sensor thinks it is too high because of too much air.
Sounds to me like it is working as designed.
Tom
Even when the car is not on?
The venting noise is coming from the strut, not the valve block. Also only makes noise when jacking right side, not left.
My theory now is the sway bar is hitting on the drivers side during full droop because the passenger side strut has failed allowing more droop than normal, this pulls the sway bar down into contact on opposite side.
The venting noise is coming from the strut, not the valve block. Also only makes noise when jacking right side, not left.
My theory now is the sway bar is hitting on the drivers side during full droop because the passenger side strut has failed allowing more droop than normal, this pulls the sway bar down into contact on opposite side.
I would change the sway bar links to shorter ones to keep the sway bar from hitting the control arm. Are you sure your links are the correct ones for the car? I don't think the bar end should reach to contact control arm in any situation.
I would change the sway bar links to shorter ones to keep the sway bar from hitting the control arm. Are you sure your links are the correct ones for the car? I don't think the bar end should reach to contact control arm in any situation.
OE links hit on left side as well. It is the bad strut, internal bits crumbled away allowing it to overextend.
Still also unclear with this question, does the air suspension monitor and adjust when the car is off?
10-10-2021, 03:10 PM
