Alignment Question - Need to Visit MB Dealer?
I was told that in order to properly align my vehicle, only certain shops can accomplish this due to my ABC suspension. I can't just allow a Big O tires to get underneath it and get a proper alignment. Is this accurate?
I was ALSO told Mercedes vehicles almost never need camber and caster adjustments but rather just need toe adjustments. Is this also true?
A fortune can be spent on alignments so I'd like to make sure I'm doing it right while also doing it efficiently. Thanks!












I never heard of the bag test except when the dealer gives me the bill and charges my AMEX card. Keep us posted.
but these days it seems they set for the predominant markets and stuff the one's that drive on the other side - I drove a LHD Lexus in NL this year and it pulled much worse than my allegedly corrected RHD Mercedes in the UK
as for Mercs not needing correction, might be applicable for LHD countries with similar road building standards to Europe, but they are pretty shocking in the UK - measure and check where the results tell you the car is - often one side needs it castor correcting - using the funny washers that allow you to move to an effectively longer or short lower track control arm from the standard bolt hole location
The often quoted, reassuring full "Front and Rear '4' Wheel Alignment" is only Front and Rear Toe "directional" adjustment. It is new car industry's best kept secret.
No essential Front or Rear Camber to "adjust tire contact angles" spread load more evenly. To cater for day to day commuting, encountering high cambered roads with excess, premature passenger side edge wear.
Also altered height / Camber change brought about by load carrying or lowering. Fitting wide profile tires or simply having ongoing adjustment capability for curb knock damage. With no Front Caster adjustment either - to compensate for Camber change, resolve steering pull, improve steering response and directional control.
It is all to do with cost cutting and ever increasing speed of factory assembly lines.
On querying all "Align Tech" can state to try and placate - is that Toe adjustment is now within factory specs !
We saw the need therefore to re instate from the 90's. Front Camber and Caster along with Rear Camber (and extra Toe) to resolve costly premature tire replacement.
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But, there is a very important tricky part in this, the ball joints of the lower control arms.
Normally in a car you can feel for the worn ball joints by hand after you just jack the wheel up but not on these cars. The bottom two control arms having their own ball joint with the geometry it is built with cause so much force in the joints that you cannot make them move by hand force (unless you are extremely strong) no matter how worn the joints may be. Experienced this with the car I had after paying for alignment that was wasted money.
Only after disconnecting the upper ball joint from the wish bone upper control arm and then lowering the suspension down allowing the hub assembly to rotate as it lowers and relieves the forces from joints it is possible to find worn lower ball joint, which mostly is the one in the end of the load bearing rearward arm. Nobody does this check before alignment measurements so with these cars alignment goes wasted very easily if the lower ball joints are old.
Another thing: The ride height greatly changes the toe so the toe needs to be set at correct height. Lowering the front of the car opens the toe. This is probably why the S-class does not have different ride height between SPORT and COMFORT setting like the E-class does where ride height does not change the toe or change is miniscule.
I don’t think many alignment shops have capability to set the car to the correct ride height during alignment (toe) check.
the front has full adjustment - but you need to swap the washers - the subframe has three bolt positions - factory wrong, better or worse. The BEST way to fix is to grind back the lug and ONLY use the special washers to hold the bolt in the new correct position as a one off fix. But you can replace the bolts with weaker stupid one's with a cut out and use the special washers (they sell an adjustment bolt kit). The idea of the bolt is that it allows a workshop to see its been adjusted and easy almost instantaneous adjustment of that arm is available - but its utterly pointless - you only need to build the car correctly once - because Merc can't be bothered when they make them - hence proper merc dealerships do the washer only fix - the fun is the steering rack stops you taking the bolt out to do both washers on the camber adjustment !!!
WASHER FOR ADJUSTING WORK ONLY A 221 333 01 77 004 Replaced by: A 20 233 303 76 - $1.31 https://www.ebay.com/itm/284405024735?
Last edited by BOTUS; Nov 26, 2022 at 05:28 AM.
My lazy fault for not checking tires often enough.






