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I have a 2009 s600 and I have a vacuum leak. It's coming from rear, of the engine near the top, and the middle. The best way I can describe it is it's coming from where the break booster vacuum tube connects to something back there that I can't see. But there is a hole sucking in air. It's not the hose itself but something metal so something in a housing or something like that. But the brake pedal is hard to push and I have misfires on the passenger side bank of cylinders. I'm trying to figure out how to fix that. If you have any ideas then let me know.
If it's a snapped off fitting, the tape isn't going to do anything.
Yeah I don't think anything went there. It's too close to the brake booster hose. But I can't seem to find the part online to be able to see what it is, what it does, or why it would be sucking in air from there.
its hard to believe but with a vacuum servo not working - mechanically / hydraulically, there is nothing stopping you pressing the brake peddle down to get the exact same amount of braking - all that wrong, is the help to press the pedal down is entirely missing
NOTE: that said - you won't actually be strong enough to do it, so will probably crash - the amount it actually helps is unbelievable...
its hard to believe but with a vacuum servo not working - mechanically / hydraulically, there is nothing stopping you pressing the brake peddle down to get the exact same amount of braking - all that wrong, is the help to press the pedal down is entirely missing
NOTE: that said - you won't actually be strong enough to do it, so will probably crash - the amount it actually helps is unbelievable...
Oh I figured that out. Even just idling the car around a little bit, it's hard to stop the car even at that speed.
Maybe a full summary of what happened the day before might help. I drove the car for about 3 hours. The last hour I noticed that the engine was running cooler than it should. Normally it's around 85-90c but it was running probably between 70-80 unless I accelerated then it would go up and drop back down between those numbers. I thought that was very weird. So I got home and didn't really think much of it. Since I wanted to see if it would happen again but I was thinking that maybe the thermostat was stuck open. The next day is when the symptoms I mentioned above happened. First I took the code reader and got codes for a cam shaft position error and an O2 sensor as well as misfires on 4 cylinders. So I erased the codes and started it again. Same thing but the codes for the cam shaft and the O2 didn't come up again. Only the misfires did but this time it was all of the passenger side cylinders. Before it was 9, 11, 12, and 2. I replaced the cam shaft position sensor anyway but that didn't do anything and that's when I noticed the hissing sound from that leak that I mentioned before which is where I am now.
2007 S600, 2007 Chrysler 300 SRT8, 2000 C5 Corvette, and 2017 Mustang GT, and just got a 2023 300C
My S600 CPS is at the rear of the engine and you might have accidentally hit a connection to the brake master cylinder or the servo vacuum pump back there when you changed out the CPS. Check closely your previous work especially using a mirror to see what is going on back there.
I think the misfires are the Voltage Transformer especially if it is all six cylinders on one side. I think you have two separate issues that just happened to occur together. I doubt they are related. Try V12icpack.com for Clark Rupp's excellent ignition products. When was the last time you changed spark plugs?
I wonder if it dropped to 6 cyl and thus ran cool as only half of the car was working - bit odd it now shows the fault on the other bank of cyls, but that's possibly a good thing - start fixing the ignition fault and any boost pressure leak - misfire codes aren't fake
I wonder if it dropped to 6 cyl and thus ran cool as only half of the car was working - bit odd it now shows the fault on the other bank of cyls, but that's possibly a good thing - start fixing the ignition fault and any boost pressure leak - misfire codes aren't fake
With the one about the engine running cool, the misfires I got for that were the 9, 11, 12 and 2. Ever since I've had the vacuum leak, it's been all of the passenger bank of cylinders. And I've just replaced the voltage transformer because my car has the infamous driver side cylinders that wouldn't fire because of that so that bank is working.
I wonder if it dropped to 6 cyl and thus ran cool as only half of the car was working - bit odd it now shows the fault on the other bank of cyls, but that's possibly a good thing - start fixing the ignition fault and any boost pressure leak - misfire codes aren't fake
Also, would having a boost issue have its own code?
Also yeah no joke on the misfires not being fake. I can feel it lol.
might show - I guess boost error would depend how hard you rip it - drive slow and it won't notice - drive in a way where it knows it should be making serious boost but isn't getting any would be likely to give a code - when you have turbos you don't get much inlet manifold vacuum as the turbo is pressurising things... that said might have a different way to make brake servo vacuum coz of the turbo....
if you have decent diagnostic gear - drive about and check live data - it should show you boost values and such
if you can feel a misfire on anything with a CAT you should park up - the CATS die from contamination of unburnt fuel - and not all engine management cuts the fuel even if it knows it should - the v8s even state in diagnostic code coil pack failure damages 3 way CAT
might show - I guess boost error would depend how hard you rip it - drive slow and it won't notice - drive in a way where it knows it should be making serious boost but isn't getting any would be likely to give a code - when you have turbos you don't get much inlet manifold vacuum as the turbo is pressurising things... that said might have a different way to make brake servo vacuum coz of the turbo....
if you have decent diagnostic gear - drive about and check live data - it should show you boost values and such
if you can feel a misfire on anything with a CAT you should park up - the CATS die from contamination of unburnt fuel - and not all engine management cuts the fuel even if it knows it should - the v8s even state in diagnostic code coil pack failure damages 3 way CAT
I know that I can smell fuel whenever it's just been idling like that. I know that my code reader can see the live data so I can see what it says. And if that is an option.
Alright this will probably help. I was able to stick my phone down and take a picture of the leak. It looks to me like the brake booster vacuum hose just broke.
if that's the brake servo vacuum hose - you can't drive it, for lots of reasons, as you already said it won't like stopping and it should be a massive air leak, and it looks like either a valve and or something is blocking the hole that if it gets ingested (along with any other dirt and debris it sucks off the road) it won't make the turbo chargers day - but might land you with another $2k expense you didn't want
some how that's all got to come out and I guess ideally with a vacuum cleaner sucking it out and then a quick blast with air the other side in case any got in
I wounder if that snapped of pipe union incorporates a once way valve....get your chassis number so you can get to the right vehicle
from here https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/221/ e.g. after 221 _ _ _ the next 3 digits will be your car
assuming its really a Mercedes FG 221.176 (63V) then section 42 is the brakes - now I think you'll have to work out from what you see and can trace on your car which bit is broken vs the part diagram
so much going on here, if Part 100 might be an easy life - but if the pipe on the car has a quick release coupling and its the union snapped off the aluminium bit its going to get complicated. There is also Part 20 it may have the same issue - but if the bit snapped off is on a pump (coz its a turbo its own brake boost pump) or a throttle body its going to be serious money ....... MAYBE one could get a union made up in a lathe and fit a real metal union that wasn't designed to snap off ?
if that's the brake servo vacuum hose - you can't drive it, for lots of reasons, as you already said it won't like stopping and it should be a massive air leak, and it looks like either a valve and or something is blocking the hole that if it gets ingested (along with any other dirt and debris it sucks off the road) it won't make the turbo chargers day - but might land you with another $2k expense you didn't want
some how that's all got to come out and I guess ideally with a vacuum cleaner sucking it out and then a quick blast with air the other side in case any got in
I wounder if that snapped of pipe union incorporates a once way valve....get your chassis number so you can get to the right vehicle
from here https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/mercedes/1/221/ e.g. after 221 _ _ _ the next 3 digits will be your car
assuming its really a Mercedes FG 221.176 (63V) then section 42 is the brakes - now I think you'll have to work out from what you see and can trace on your car which bit is broken vs the part diagram
so much going on here, if Part 100 might be an easy life - but if the pipe on the car has a quick release coupling and its the union snapped off the aluminium bit its going to get complicated. There is also Part 20 it may have the same issue - but if the bit snapped off is on a pump (coz its a turbo its own brake boost pump) or a throttle body its going to be serious money ....... MAYBE one could get a union made up in a lathe and fit a real metal union that wasn't designed to snap off ?
I plan on taking out that line once I get home from work today so I will see if it's just the plastic that broke or if the aluminum you mentioned also broke.
I suspect its a plastic union attached to the aluminum bit that's broken off - at present I think part of the union is still in the plastic pipe ---- goodness know how it supposed to come off / out of the aluminum bit
I wish I could work out what Part 10 is - I wasn't able to locate it on other parts drawings - bit dim they number then don't list it - although not the first time I've spotted the drawings are by lunatics
is this a union at the back of the inlet manifold - in which case the black sticky out lugs on the Vac pipe are really meant to be part of the aluminum bit.....
make a bit in a lathe that fits in the manifold with a std hose union - cut off the end of the old manifold union flush with the end of the vac pipe - leaving inside the old connector inner and join the two with a decent bit of hose and two worm drive clamps
either way must use vacuum cleaner whilst trying to get the plastic out - I suspect this is a $2k job at a stealership with 6 weeks shipping if it needs a new manifold otherwise
Weird for a vacuum hose to melt. It's just got air in it. I'm used to seeing hose nipples melt when there's coolant or a lubricant in them. After enough years and heat cycles, the plastic just turns to mush
07-25-2023, 10:13 PM
