Buying a 2010/2011
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
It came to me with new oil and brand new engine air filters - I guess carfax reports are good for something.
Dance mom/participant PO did smoke in it though and it’s coming back so another ozone cure is in the cards then swap out cabin filters.
just put 75 miles on her in glorious pnw weather with a full cabin and not much issue with it from my kids so my nose is super sensitive to cancer stick usage I guess.
Dance mom/participant PO did smoke in it though and it’s coming back so another ozone cure is in the cards then swap out cabin filters.
just put 75 miles on her in glorious pnw weather with a full cabin and not much issue with it from my kids so my nose is super sensitive to cancer stick usage I guess.
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
Hit a bump - esp now off.
codes out as a b24/15 yaw rate sensor failure (likely loose). I’m not at WIS right now and no specific location for this module in the w221 exists on the internet.
anyone know where it is?
cleared all errors and will see if it reappears.
codes out as a b24/15 yaw rate sensor failure (likely loose). I’m not at WIS right now and no specific location for this module in the w221 exists on the internet.
anyone know where it is?
cleared all errors and will see if it reappears.
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S500
in the boot on the floor near the rear SAM - they are always about this point on cars
more likely an ABS wheel speed sensor wire doing what they do - although that ought to get a speed sensor error - but they often start to die or fail in one hit after large bumps
more likely an ABS wheel speed sensor wire doing what they do - although that ought to get a speed sensor error - but they often start to die or fail in one hit after large bumps
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
My thoughts exactly - wheel speed sensors burning out and subsequent abs and esp malfunction has happened quite a few times in my x164 but that is a line item under ESP…the only fault under ESP was yaw rate sensor B15/25. No wheel speed implausible stored or current codes found. Thanks for the location .
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1983 Nissan Shltbox
All fluids are critical and get replaced immediately after a purchase, regardless. It's a peace of mind thing for me, and it's paid off in the past.
The history points to the b24/15 connection being directly under the unsealed region of your trunk and got a good shower or two.
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S500
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1983 Nissan Shltbox
So opposite side. Coincidentally where the boot battery happens to live. So some bumbling shop monkey replaced the battery and knocked the sensor.
Maybe you can check your Carfax report and find out who to charge for the sensor replacement.
Maybe you can check your Carfax report and find out who to charge for the sensor replacement.
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
otherwise it’s lowering links to trick the airmatic ECU into thinking it’s at normal height, which I have not done.
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
Has anyone rebuilt an OEM Mercedes control arm on this board? I recently did the front lower rear arms and noticed within a week that the Delphi replacement arms are creaking, or should I say the ball joint is - bad on me for not checking the grease in them.
im noting the overall better quality of the OEM arms and wondering if the outer ball joint can be pressed or pullled out and a suitable replacement exists - because then I’ll just have two rotable sets of arms in inventory for when it chews through them.
also, got a know good yaw rate sensor from a wrecker in case this error presents itself again, but one week of driving and no errors.
i can also not find the sway bar bushings anywhere, which it needs.
im noting the overall better quality of the OEM arms and wondering if the outer ball joint can be pressed or pullled out and a suitable replacement exists - because then I’ll just have two rotable sets of arms in inventory for when it chews through them.
also, got a know good yaw rate sensor from a wrecker in case this error presents itself again, but one week of driving and no errors.
i can also not find the sway bar bushings anywhere, which it needs.
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From: Brooklyn, NY
2007 S550 4Matic 2013 S550 Base
Has anyone rebuilt an OEM Mercedes control arm on this board? I recently did the front lower rear arms and noticed within a week that the Delphi replacement arms are creaking, or should I say the ball joint is - bad on me for not checking the grease in them.
im noting the overall better quality of the OEM arms and wondering if the outer ball joint can be pressed or pullled out and a suitable replacement exists - because then I’ll just have two rotable sets of arms in inventory for when it chews through them.
also, got a know good yaw rate sensor from a wrecker in case this error presents itself again, but one week of driving and no errors.
i can also not find the sway bar bushings anywhere, which it needs.
im noting the overall better quality of the OEM arms and wondering if the outer ball joint can be pressed or pullled out and a suitable replacement exists - because then I’ll just have two rotable sets of arms in inventory for when it chews through them.
also, got a know good yaw rate sensor from a wrecker in case this error presents itself again, but one week of driving and no errors.
i can also not find the sway bar bushings anywhere, which it needs.
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S500
the main anti roll bar bushes were once a merc item - they fond they creaked and groaned and bonded then on to the arms - and thus are now only available as a whole arm with new bonded on bushes
after market sell bushes - unknown quality - either way they need to be glued on with a polyurethane glue - gorilla makes some
after market sell bushes - unknown quality - either way they need to be glued on with a polyurethane glue - gorilla makes some
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
I just bought Amazon bushings for 12.99. I’m gonna try to glue them on because the ones that are on there are absolutely wrecked.
It’s worth a shot before I shell out 175 for a new OEM front sway bar.
It’s worth a shot before I shell out 175 for a new OEM front sway bar.
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2011 S550 4matic
You know, I really wonder if they actually need to be glued. I think if you remove the 4 bracket bolts, scrape and cut off the old rubber material. Check the fit, if its snug and tight, I wouldn't glue. Most cars do NOT have glued bushings so I can't understand why we would need it on this Model.
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2011 S550 4matic
And BTW,
if you do glue these in place, I believe you would absolutely have to do it with the wheels loaded, otherwise the bushings would not be glued in the right spot. If indeed they appear to need to be glued, I would have the car off the ground and level at all 4 Wheels and the car sitting on blocks or something else to make sure it's correct
if you do glue these in place, I believe you would absolutely have to do it with the wheels loaded, otherwise the bushings would not be glued in the right spot. If indeed they appear to need to be glued, I would have the car off the ground and level at all 4 Wheels and the car sitting on blocks or something else to make sure it's correct
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
Yep, as is true with all other bushings as well. This car is so low I’ve got to build even ramps or get it onto a 4-post lift to be able to tighten it up with load on the suspension at right height level.
Last edited by Max Blast; Jan 21, 2026 at 07:26 PM.
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
And BTW,
if you do glue these in place, I believe you would absolutely have to do it with the wheels loaded, otherwise the bushings would not be glued in the right spot. If indeed they appear to need to be glued, I would have the car off the ground and level at all 4 Wheels and the car sitting on blocks or something else to make sure it's correct
if you do glue these in place, I believe you would absolutely have to do it with the wheels loaded, otherwise the bushings would not be glued in the right spot. If indeed they appear to need to be glued, I would have the car off the ground and level at all 4 Wheels and the car sitting on blocks or something else to make sure it's correct
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S500
You know, I really wonder if they actually need to be glued. I think if you remove the 4 bracket bolts, scrape and cut off the old rubber material. Check the fit, if its snug and tight, I wouldn't glue. Most cars do NOT have glued bushings so I can't understand why we would need it on this Model.
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
So, greetings from the low side of things.
I have replaced the abhorrently squeaky sway bar bushings with an Amazon set ($25) and did not glue them on.
added to that two new lemforder sway bar links at 50 bucks each
Also, replaced both torque arm bushings with lemforder ones - just press the old ones out with the arm still attached in the ball joint ($75 for both)
But the key enabler of this was a dirt cheap bushing tool press kit on Amazon - it’s about 170 bucks and very well equipped. I had a set of Baum bushing press tools arrive at the same time courtesy of FCP euro and overnight shipping, but I ended up not even using this tool because the cheapo Amazon one was more than adequate.
now, kind reminder that you always torque everything back down with weight on the front wheels otherwise you’ll just tear the new bushings immediately.
And it’s really nice and quiet, and all squeaks is eliminated for about $375. The cool thing is that this kit has so many different diameter cups that I’m going to tackle the rear end with them as well and just find the bushings instead of brand new control, arms of dubious quality.
ZKTOOL 40Pcs Universal Pull and...
I will say that my back is kind of sore, but this is entirely DIY with a floor jack and some wooden blocks and a couple jackstands.
I have replaced the abhorrently squeaky sway bar bushings with an Amazon set ($25) and did not glue them on.
added to that two new lemforder sway bar links at 50 bucks each
Also, replaced both torque arm bushings with lemforder ones - just press the old ones out with the arm still attached in the ball joint ($75 for both)
But the key enabler of this was a dirt cheap bushing tool press kit on Amazon - it’s about 170 bucks and very well equipped. I had a set of Baum bushing press tools arrive at the same time courtesy of FCP euro and overnight shipping, but I ended up not even using this tool because the cheapo Amazon one was more than adequate.
now, kind reminder that you always torque everything back down with weight on the front wheels otherwise you’ll just tear the new bushings immediately.
And it’s really nice and quiet, and all squeaks is eliminated for about $375. The cool thing is that this kit has so many different diameter cups that I’m going to tackle the rear end with them as well and just find the bushings instead of brand new control, arms of dubious quality.
ZKTOOL 40Pcs Universal Pull and...
I will say that my back is kind of sore, but this is entirely DIY with a floor jack and some wooden blocks and a couple jackstands.
Last edited by Max Blast; Feb 26, 2026 at 08:31 PM.
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W221 S500
So, greetings from the low side of things.
I have replaced the abhorrently squeaky sway bar bushings with an Amazon set ($25) and did not glue them on.
added to that two new lemforder sway bar links at 50 bucks each
Also, replaced both torque arm bushings with lemforder ones - just press the old ones out with the arm still attached in the ball joint ($75 for both)
But the key enabler of this was a dirt cheap bushing tool press kit on Amazon - it’s about 170 bucks and very well equipped. I had a set of Baum bushing press tools arrive at the same time courtesy of FCP euro and overnight shipping, but I ended up not even using this tool because the cheapo Amazon one was more than adequate.
now, kind reminder that you always torque everything back down with weight on the front wheels otherwise you’ll just tear the new bushings immediately.
And it’s really nice and quiet, and all squeaks is eliminated for about $375. The cool thing is that this kit has so many different diameter cups that I’m going to tackle the rear end with them as well and just find the bushings instead of brand new control, arms of dubious quality.
ZKTOOL 40Pcs Universal Pull and...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMJM3145...p_mob_ap_share
I will say that my back is kind of sore, but this is entirely DIY with a floor jack and some wooden blocks and a couple jackstands.
I have replaced the abhorrently squeaky sway bar bushings with an Amazon set ($25) and did not glue them on.
added to that two new lemforder sway bar links at 50 bucks each
Also, replaced both torque arm bushings with lemforder ones - just press the old ones out with the arm still attached in the ball joint ($75 for both)
But the key enabler of this was a dirt cheap bushing tool press kit on Amazon - it’s about 170 bucks and very well equipped. I had a set of Baum bushing press tools arrive at the same time courtesy of FCP euro and overnight shipping, but I ended up not even using this tool because the cheapo Amazon one was more than adequate.
now, kind reminder that you always torque everything back down with weight on the front wheels otherwise you’ll just tear the new bushings immediately.
And it’s really nice and quiet, and all squeaks is eliminated for about $375. The cool thing is that this kit has so many different diameter cups that I’m going to tackle the rear end with them as well and just find the bushings instead of brand new control, arms of dubious quality.
ZKTOOL 40Pcs Universal Pull and...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FMJM3145...p_mob_ap_share
I will say that my back is kind of sore, but this is entirely DIY with a floor jack and some wooden blocks and a couple jackstands.
Have done a few clutch/gearbox swaps with little more than a trolley jack and ramps, but the 722.9 is always a shop job😉
The biggest issue with doing suspension work on the ground is getting the car high enough to be able to use a long enough bar to get the nuts and bolts undone. Although credit where it's due, my 132k mile 2006 S500 is cleaner underneath than my 2004 Vauxhall Omega (Catera for you Colonialists) wagon was at 5 years old🤐
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NGL450 w/EORP, S550
Yeah, and the key job left to do is to do the center bearing support. I am noodling whether I just jack up the rear end and put it on blocks for roller access and use my transmission jack to download the exhaust system… or wait for some lift space at a friend of mine who is terminally busy with restoration projects. There is a notable vibration present at about 75 miles an hour. I can go 65 or 80 in comfort until such time.
I’m pushing 50 and a repair job like this carries with it a day in the penalty box if I use the creeper.
otherwise, the two other things left to do is to:
replace the rotation sensor behind the trunk panel - the incumbent has finally failed completely
Put the steering wheel back on straight, which necessitates a forensic investigation into which connection was broken in the past - whether it was steering wheel on the shaft or the shaft connecting to the steering rack.
Does anyone know whether the steering shaft to rack connection is a splined connection? I heard that particular disconnect was a six hour job with subframes, etc. etc..
I’m pushing 50 and a repair job like this carries with it a day in the penalty box if I use the creeper.
otherwise, the two other things left to do is to:
replace the rotation sensor behind the trunk panel - the incumbent has finally failed completely
Put the steering wheel back on straight, which necessitates a forensic investigation into which connection was broken in the past - whether it was steering wheel on the shaft or the shaft connecting to the steering rack.
Does anyone know whether the steering shaft to rack connection is a splined connection? I heard that particular disconnect was a six hour job with subframes, etc. etc..
