Paint protection
Have had it done on my last five cars and love it. I here the new Expel film is excellent.
Suggest a full hood, front fender and grill/ spoiler wrap. Most go with mirrors and A pillars was well. My guy puts small pieces where the rear wheels would kick up crap on the rear fenders and the top of the rear fender where things coming in and out of the trunk could hit.
Avoid the front 1/3 hood jobs. On certain colors it will be noticeable and you have to be careful when waxing not to highlight the line with residue.
I have noticed significant price differentials based on the part of the country, but I'd say the coverage noted above will be in the $1,400 - $2,000 range.
In my previous car S550 4matic 2008 I had Venture Shield and was very happy with it. Since Venture Shield is no longer available I was looking around to see what is the best available at present. Expel seems to have improvements over Venture Shield and good reviews also.
Thanks for your input.
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Thnx
I don't care how "clean" your car is - there is absolutely no way it's going to arrive from the dealer without swirls in the clear coat. If you're going to spend the money I would suggest you take it to a reputable hi-end detailer and get the paint correction - you - and others will notice the difference. I have a black CLK AMG and you can hardly tell the clear bra is there. Three years and no yellowing. If it's applied properly it's wrapped so little visible sign of wax in the seams.
After three years...
Can the paint be damaged during the application process via any cutting on the car, or are the sections precut?
How much protection is in the OptiCoat itself?
OptiCoat or Modesta are far better than raw clear coat, but the Expel gives you an increased layer of protection.
I'd like to get my done before i take delivery for two reasons; 1) The paint will be protected while i'ts still new and 2) if they screw up the paint in the process I can choose another car if need be.
That said, my last three cars were done away from the dealer because I had no desire to roll it cost into the sale and had become comfortable with the shop I was using.
Last edited by BigHat; Oct 26, 2015 at 03:23 PM.
Last edited by RJC; Oct 26, 2015 at 10:53 PM.
I am very happy with the result and like my previous car 2008 S550 I am sure this will last me for a longtime. Loving it
Here are some pictures of the completed job:
1 - Power wash car to remove loose surface dirt and grit.
2 - Wash wheels, tires & wheel wells first: Pre-spray wheels with Sonax Wheel Cleaner. In first bucket of Detailer's Xtreme Foam, use Daytona Speed Master PRO Wheel Brush to clean spokes and wheel rims. First MF mitt to clean wheel face. Tire bush to clean both sides of tire. Handle brush to scrub wheel well. Rinse.
3 - The dirt belt (wash area around the vehicle from the side trim down): Two new buckets of Detailer's Xteme foam and grit guards. Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using second MF mitt and two buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from side trim down - never move from dirty back to clean but always from clean to dirty. Rinse.
4 - Wash entire vehicle from top down: Another two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam. Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using third MF mitt and two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from top down - again, never move from dirty back to clean but from clean to dirty. Rinse.
5 - Drying: OptiCoat and Modesta are highly hydrophobic coatings, and you can dry the vehicle by simply sheeting a stream of water and "pulling" it down the car. Perfectly dry with no water spots. Dedicated leaf blower on low to blow water from trim and crevices, followed by Wolfgang's Detailer Spritz and MF towels dedicated to exterior drying only (more "patting" than actual drying). The less "touching" you do to your car the better. Never MF a car without some form of detail spritz or waterless wash.
Microfiber care. I have a bucket of Detailer's Pro pad rejuvinator sitting by the side. When I finish using a MF towel I throw it in there and let it sit. Perfect for loosening up dirt, wax etc, before you wash. I use Detailer Pro Micro Fiber Restorer Detergent and distilled white vinegar in the rinse well (do not forget to use the vinegar)! Do not wash MF with any other fabrics. Separate your MF based on their use. Separate loads for buffing polishing MF and cleaning/interior/leather MF. Wash three times on hottest setting, i.e., Sanitize! AIR DRY ONLY, without a dryer sheet. Periodically you'll begin to notice your MF becomes water repellant. Indication that it's time to really clean them. The best method is to use boiling water. I use the Detailer's Pro pad rejuvinator, and fill a 5 gal bucket with boiling water and let my towels soak for about 15 minutes. After washing the towels are soft, and hydrophilic, like new.
All of this takes some time. Far more than your average schmo who walks out on a Saturday morning with a sponge, bucket and a chamois. But if you've just spent a few thousand dollars on having your finish brought to perfection - you're the type who will appreciate the results. If you use this method there is absolutely no risk of introducing scratches or swirls, and your car will look showroom perfect for years to come. Best of luck!
1 - Power wash car to remove loose surface dirt and grit.
2 - Wash wheels, tires & wheel wells first: Pre-spray wheels with Sonax Wheel Cleaner. In first bucket of Detailer's Xtreme Foam, use Daytona Speed Master PRO Wheel Brush to clean spokes and wheel rims. First MF mitt to clean wheel face. Tire bush to clean both sides of tire. Handle brush to scrub wheel well. Rinse.
3 - The dirt belt (wash area around the vehicle from the side trim down): Two new buckets of Detailer's Xteme foam and grit guards. Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using second MF mitt and two buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from side trim down - never move from dirty back to clean but always from clean to dirty. Rinse.
4 - Wash entire vehicle from top down: Another two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam. Pre-spray area to be cleaned with foam cannon filled with Detailer's Xtreme foam, using third MF mitt and two clean buckets of Detailer's Xtreme foam and grit guards (one for pre-rinse, one soap) work from top down - again, never move from dirty back to clean but from clean to dirty. Rinse.
5 - Drying: OptiCoat and Modesta are highly hydrophobic coatings, and you can dry the vehicle by simply sheeting a stream of water and "pulling" it down the car. Perfectly dry with no water spots. Dedicated leaf blower on low to blow water from trim and crevices, followed by Wolfgang's Detailer Spritz and MF towels dedicated to exterior drying only (more "patting" than actual drying). The less "touching" you do to your car the better. Never MF a car without some form of detail spritz or waterless wash.
Microfiber care. I have a bucket of Detailer's Pro pad rejuvinator sitting by the side. When I finish using a MF towel I throw it in there and let it sit. Perfect for loosening up dirt, wax etc, before you wash. I use Detailer Pro Micro Fiber Restorer Detergent and distilled white vinegar in the rinse well (do not forget to use the vinegar)! Do not wash MF with any other fabrics. Separate your MF based on their use. Separate loads for buffing polishing MF and cleaning/interior/leather MF. Wash three times on hottest setting, i.e., Sanitize! AIR DRY ONLY, without a dryer sheet. Periodically you'll begin to notice your MF becomes water repellant. Indication that it's time to really clean them. The best method is to use boiling water. I use the Detailer's Pro pad rejuvinator, and fill a 5 gal bucket with boiling water and let my towels soak for about 15 minutes. After washing the towels are soft, and hydrophilic, like new.
All of this takes some time. Far more than your average schmo who walks out on a Saturday morning with a sponge, bucket and a chamois. But if you've just spent a few thousand dollars on having your finish brought to perfection - you're the type who will appreciate the results. If you use this method there is absolutely no risk of introducing scratches or swirls, and your car will look showroom perfect for years to come. Best of luck!
Thank you for the thorough detail in explaining how to maintain the car in showroom perfect condition. Indeed it is lot of effort to keep the car in that condition. You car picture tells the story and after three years it does look in perfect condition.
What about winters do you follow the same routine? Also here in the Northeast the salt and snow does take toll on the car. I wonder if anyone takes the car through the car wash for the under body wash?
You mentioned The less "touching" you do to your car the better". What are your views on the Air Force Master Blaster Revolution lot of reviews mention it takes less time in drying the car without touching it. Also gets the water out from crevices and hard to reach areas for a hefty price of course.








