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These cars eat up inner tread in the rear like a fat kid at a buffet. Something to do with the negative camber in the rear that is not adjustable BTW. I think there is a kit you can buy to fix this and make the camber adjustable.
These cars eat up inner tread in the rear like a fat kid at a buffet. Something to do with the negative camber in the rear that is not adjustable BTW. I think there is a kit you can buy to fix this and make the camber adjustable.
That all rings a bell. Had the same thing happen on my 2012.
Headed to my Indy alignment shop Monday to get fixed.
Can't speak on the camber issue but my SL's always ate the inner wall on the RF's. I have 19's on the S and fingers crossed. I keep my PSI at 32/33 all around.
That looks like wear from an incorrect toe setting. A few degrees of camber will not cause that kind of inside edge wear. There have been several threads about this inside rear tire edge wear on S class sedans. The AMG’s do not do this, perhaps some different parts are used. There are some aftermarket kits that provide a fix for the cars that show this wear, not all do.
For information here is the data sheet from the most recent alignment on my S65. Note the rear camber. There was a minor rear wheel toe setting issue which was corrected. The front needed attention. In 39,000 miles the rear tires have worn evenly across the tread, pressure is kept between 36 and 38 psi.
That looks like wear from an incorrect toe setting. A few degrees of camber will not cause that kind of inside edge wear. There have been several threads about this inside rear tire edge wear on S class sedans. The AMG’s do not do this, perhaps some different parts are used. There are some aftermarket kits that provide a fix for the cars that show this wear, not all do.
For information here is the data sheet from the most recent alignment on my S65. Note the rear camber. There was a minor rear wheel toe setting issue which was corrected. The front needed attention. In 39,000 miles the rear tires have worn evenly across the tread, pressure is kept between 36 and 38 psi.
Thanks for the data sheet. I would wager tow-out issue. Head to shop Monday.
Good luck, I hope they get it fixed for you. I just took a second look at the alignment sheet I posted and see it is the first one I had done. This is how the car was delivered from the factory with that completely misaligned front end. The car was constantly pulling to the right. This first alignment was done for no charge, apparently under warranty. I had a second one done three years later with new tires. It just required a minor toe adjustment at the front.
18 AMG GTC and 22 F150 Limited. Past owner 16 Maybach, 17 Brabus Smartcar, 06 Ford E150, and 22 G70
YES YES had that problem too many times. You can replace the camber rods on the car and get the camber adjusted so the tires are not doing this. My post with pictures is here https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...e-failure.html
YES YES had that problem too many times. You can replace the camber rods on the car and get the camber adjusted so the tires are not doing this. My post with pictures is here https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...e-failure.html
Thanks for the good info and links are on EBay. Be at the allignment shop in the am.
There is only Toe “directional” adjustment OEM ! New car industries best kept secret. It's all to do with cost cutting and the ever increasing speed of assembly lines.
No Front or Rear Camber to adjust tire contact angles. Spread load more evenly to resolve costly, premature edge tire wear. Excess edge load, higher impact can also lead to ruptured sidewalls, rim damage.
We have the experience of constantly designing, developing and overcoming suspension OEM short comings since 1964 !
FOR ALL W222 Models and kits for virtually every other Mercedes model
(reinstating once again from the early 90's full front "and rear" adjustment).
REAR P/N 502226K $480 (both sides)
Replaces the lower arm inner bushings for Camber. KMAC patented design is easily accessible and allows precise, single wrench adjustment on car, accurately under load - direct on alignment rack ! Providing up to 1.5 degrees Pos. or Neg. Camber change.
Besides ease of access - important advantages over upper Camber arms is retaining clearance top of tire to outer fender when wanting to resolve excess inner edge tire wear.
Kit also includes "extra" Rear Toe adjustment to compensate for Camber change. Bush extraction tool included.
FRONT P/N 502816L $545 (both sides)
Replaces the 4 Front lower arm (highest wearing) bushings. Also precise, single wrench adjustment of both Camber and Caster. Accurately under load direct on alignment rack. Providing up to 1.5 degrees Pos. or Neg.
FRONT P/N 502816-2K $480 (both sides)
Alternative Front kit. Simply replaces the 4 upper arm inner bushes. Fit on vehicle (bush extraction tool included). Precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster. Up to 1.5 degrees Pos. or Neg. With the security of retaining the existing OEM high strength forged alloy arms (not replacing with welded / fabricated arms).
18 AMG GTC and 22 F150 Limited. Past owner 16 Maybach, 17 Brabus Smartcar, 06 Ford E150, and 22 G70
Yes those are it. They are NOT hard to install except you must loosen (but not remove four bolts that hold the entire rear suspension and differential up to the body of the car. This lowers the cradle about an inch and allows you to remove the inner bolts that hold on the camber rod.
PS at least that was the way it was with the Maybach. I have no reason to think it is any different for any other S Class.
Thats strange that MB would not use adjustable camber links on the rear, looks like they never have. Have not looked on my 2018 S560 but probably does not have them either. Seems like rear tire wear is ok though at least so far. You can tell though in the above pictures that the tire was getting stressed on the inside.
18 AMG GTC and 22 F150 Limited. Past owner 16 Maybach, 17 Brabus Smartcar, 06 Ford E150, and 22 G70
I have also wondered why they dont have adjustment for camber for the car. My 18 AMG GTC does this too but the inside is worn out about the time its time to replace the tire. With the Maybach I would have a tire like in the original post after 13-15k miles and the rest of the tire looked good.
Maybe MB has a deal going with the Tire Companies, lol. I just checked the inside on my car and the tires have around 7K miles on them and the inside of the tires still seem fine. I'd say judging from the wear on the tires they will only be good for maybe 20K miles if I'm lucky, but thats pretty much the norm for run flat tires.
Looked closer at the tire today. Severe wear is almost like a cut and not uniform as rotational wear would appear. The remaining tire edge not in a photo has no unusual wear at all. Almost like something hung in the wheelwell to cause the damage.
Looks like you ran over a guillotine. I'd say the ply on the tire separated but does look like some excessive wear on the inside of the tire. What kind of tire is that a Goodyear Eagle?
Looks like you ran over a guillotine. I'd say the ply on the tire separated but does look like some excessive wear on the inside of the tire. What kind of tire is that a Goodyear Eagle?
GE they are. Once this little issue is settled, its Michelin or Bridgestone.
It would seem the best resolution to this issue is to ditch the RFT's and just go with regular XL tires. Although those camber adjustment links are nice to have in order to really dial in an alignment, I don't think they are necessary.
Thinking logically here for a moment, the sidewalls of RFT's are super stiff allowing the tire to still hold the car up even when there is no air pressure. This means that the tread is taking all of the pounding instead of the sidewall contributing evenly over bumps, turns, normal flexing, etc. So this put high stress on the joints where that stiff sidewall hits the tread and these common blowouts are almost always in the exact same spot....at that joint. Just go with regular XL tires, along with this in the trunk for emergencies and you'll be good to go. And you'll also have a much more compliant ride.
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