Pulsation Damper removal 2007 S65
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Joined: Jan 2006
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Pulsation Damper removal 2007 S65
Hello All
I am trying to remove and replace my pulsation damper on my 2007 S65. The new part has the nut on top but of course my original part from 2007 does not. I have tried like hell to get this thing off but no luck. Even purchased a special oil filter removal tool but it is just to tight in there.
My last option I have is on my damper there is a metal nub sticking out on top. I was thinking of welding a nut on top. As you can imagine I am concerned with this option for many reasons.
Does anyone have any ideas on this? Any old school MB guys know of this issue?
Thanks for any help.
Johan
I am trying to remove and replace my pulsation damper on my 2007 S65. The new part has the nut on top but of course my original part from 2007 does not. I have tried like hell to get this thing off but no luck. Even purchased a special oil filter removal tool but it is just to tight in there.
My last option I have is on my damper there is a metal nub sticking out on top. I was thinking of welding a nut on top. As you can imagine I am concerned with this option for many reasons.
Does anyone have any ideas on this? Any old school MB guys know of this issue?
Thanks for any help.
Johan
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 848
Likes: 45
From: ATL
2017 GLS 550
can you fit a strap wrench down in there, probably not. I saw someone make a strapwrench from an old belt and large socket once that would then fit on a ratchet with an exension. possibly you could make a strap wrench that would fit. I think I would try that before taking a mig welder to my engine compartment. was the oil filter tool one of those 3 jaw type?
over at benzworld forum, a member named rudeney unbolted from engine and slid it forward.
CREDIT - Rudeney - Benzworld.
Here are the steps I took:
1. Lifted the front end and removed front left wheel (just for easier access for crawling under the car) and the lower engine paneling.
2. Released the belt tensioner from underneath the car and locked it in place with a small screwdriver.
3. Removed the bolt holding the pump bracket to the engine block. I decided to remove the bracket form the block rather then bracket from the pump as access was easier.
4. Back up top, I removed the serpentine belt from the ABC pump and AC compressor.
5. Disconnected the wiring harness from the ABC pump and move it out of the way.
5. Removed the top bolt holding the pump to the engine (actually it bolts onto the timing chain cover).
6. Discovered that even with some of my low-profile tools, I could not get to the lower front bolt without removing the pump pulley.
7. Removed the three bolts holding the pulley to the pump. Note that this would have been easier with the serpentine belt in place to hold the pulley, so do that first!
8. With the pump loose, I could slide it forward just enough so the pulsation dampener was clearly accessible (see photo below).
9. THOROUGHLY cleaned the area on top of the pump and around the dampener. I first hosed it down with a can of electrical contact cleaner. I figured that would be better than engine degreaser as it dries quickly. I used a microfiber cloth wrapped around the dampener and "buffed" it.
10. I replaced the dampener and put everything back together.
11. I found it easier to first install the top front pump bolt without the hose bracket to hold it in place. Then, i was able to get the lower bolt and bracket started, the rear bolt started, and then torque everything down.
12. I was able to hold the pulley with my hand when torquing its bolts.
The torque for the pulley bolts is 30Nm, the pump-to-engine bolts are 20Nm. The pulsation dampener is 45Nm.
over at benzworld forum, a member named rudeney unbolted from engine and slid it forward.
CREDIT - Rudeney - Benzworld.
Here are the steps I took:
1. Lifted the front end and removed front left wheel (just for easier access for crawling under the car) and the lower engine paneling.
2. Released the belt tensioner from underneath the car and locked it in place with a small screwdriver.
3. Removed the bolt holding the pump bracket to the engine block. I decided to remove the bracket form the block rather then bracket from the pump as access was easier.
4. Back up top, I removed the serpentine belt from the ABC pump and AC compressor.
5. Disconnected the wiring harness from the ABC pump and move it out of the way.
5. Removed the top bolt holding the pump to the engine (actually it bolts onto the timing chain cover).
6. Discovered that even with some of my low-profile tools, I could not get to the lower front bolt without removing the pump pulley.
7. Removed the three bolts holding the pulley to the pump. Note that this would have been easier with the serpentine belt in place to hold the pulley, so do that first!
8. With the pump loose, I could slide it forward just enough so the pulsation dampener was clearly accessible (see photo below).
9. THOROUGHLY cleaned the area on top of the pump and around the dampener. I first hosed it down with a can of electrical contact cleaner. I figured that would be better than engine degreaser as it dries quickly. I used a microfiber cloth wrapped around the dampener and "buffed" it.
10. I replaced the dampener and put everything back together.
11. I found it easier to first install the top front pump bolt without the hose bracket to hold it in place. Then, i was able to get the lower bolt and bracket started, the rear bolt started, and then torque everything down.
12. I was able to hold the pulley with my hand when torquing its bolts.
The torque for the pulley bolts is 30Nm, the pump-to-engine bolts are 20Nm. The pulsation dampener is 45Nm.
Last edited by thtguy; Jun 5, 2020 at 10:21 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2,642
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From: Phoenix
222 S-65
Toughest part of the procedure is getting your head around it. Budget half an hour for the task.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 64
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles , Ca
2011 S63 , 1997 SL500 La costa edition (sold) 1987 560SEC (sold)
No need to get the pump loose. Pull air filter housing. Use a can or two of Brakeclean (I prefer the non-flammable flavor of it for this job) to clean all around the damper where it threads into the pump and in the area of the pump. It needs to be spotlessly clean so that no ick ends up in the pump.
Toughest part of the procedure is getting your head around it. Budget half an hour for the task.
Toughest part of the procedure is getting your head around it. Budget half an hour for the task.
