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I have been getting this message the last couple of days. For those that don't know, I have a 2011 E63 and I'm not aware of having an auxiliary battery. I thought only the 550 has the extra battery for the airmatic suspension. I know there is no additional battery in the trunk near the spare in that spot used for it. I have my sub amp mounted there and did not remove any battery. Hmmm
That's funny. I just found the same DIY thread that you pointed me to. Called the dealer and was quoted $51 for the battery. fairly painless it sounds like.
One question:
"trim removal tool" ? guessing this is basically a wide blade standard screwdriver? Or narrow putty knife? Have you pulled this panel off on yours? I certainly don't want to break anything with my gorilla hands!
This topic brings up a question for me, does the accessory battery not fully charge when you drive in sport mode (where start stop is automatically disabled)?
I have been driving primarily in sport mode for a year now (until recently when I added the pedalbox). I have noticed that I get a few of my accessories go offline (Pre-Safe and something else currently unavailable, please see operators manual) from time to time. Happens sporadically and goes away on its own. Dealer obviously cannot duplicate it. Happened more in the colder weather than hot. Car has 36k miles on it
But the last time I took it in for that (when they preemptively changed my accelerator module and reprogrammed my ecu/tcu wiping out my Renntech), they claimed it was a dying accessory battery. I gave the ok to replace, but for some odd reason, they changed all the crap that was covered under CPO but did not change the battery out. Fast forward a few months have passed and I made it a point to drive in Comfort mode occasionally (since Renntech eliminated the start stop feature with the last updated tune). I have only seen that notification twice. Now that I have the pedalbox and I primarily drive in comfort mode, I do not think I will see that anymore (still watching).
I wonder if the car charges the accessory battery in comfort mode so it can help restart the car on start/stop, but not so much in sport or sport plus modes. You usually have start stop unavailable initially when you start the car anyway. What do folks here think about that?
This topic brings up a question for me, does the accessory battery not fully charge when you drive in sport mode (where start stop is automatically disabled)?
I have been driving primarily in sport mode for a year now (until recently when I added the pedalbox). I have noticed that I get a few of my accessories go offline (Pre-Safe and something else currently unavailable, please see operators manual) from time to time. Happens sporadically and goes away on its own. Dealer obviously cannot duplicate it. Happened more in the colder weather than hot. Car has 36k miles on it
But the last time I took it in for that (when they preemptively changed my accelerator module and reprogrammed my ecu/tcu wiping out my Renntech), they claimed it was a dying accessory battery. I gave the ok to replace, but for some odd reason, they changed all the crap that was covered under CPO but did not change the battery out. Fast forward a few months have passed and I made it a point to drive in Comfort mode occasionally (since Renntech eliminated the start stop feature with the last updated tune). I have only seen that notification twice. Now that I have the pedalbox and I primarily drive in comfort mode, I do not think I will see that anymore (still watching).
I wonder if the car charges the accessory battery in comfort mode so it can help restart the car on start/stop, but not so much in sport or sport plus modes. You usually have start stop unavailable initially when you start the car anyway. What do folks here think about that?
When you say pedalbax, are you speaking of something like the Sprintbooster used to help the response time of the pedal? If so, you should remove it. It is your problem. I had a sprintbooster and it was fun for a bit until one day when my dash lit up with all the Pre-safe warnings and the the car went into limp mode on the freeway. It caught my attention! Then I was told it was from the sprintbooster and I removed it. No problems since. $300 lesson. Also, the issue could be a combination of the sprintbooster while in Sport mode. This may be why you think things are better while driving in C mode.
I don't have the eco mode "start/stop" (and thank God for that) and I very much doubt that the charging logic has anything to do with which driving mode you are in.
Lastly since you have a tune and all perhaps you are not worried about warranty? If you are, you do not want the the dealer seeing the sprintbooster (assuming that this is the same thing as the pedalbox you mentioned). And I assume the tune is reversible? such that you can switch back to stock for dealer visits?
When you say pedalbax, are you speaking of something like the Sprintbooster used to help the response time of the pedal? If so, you should remove it. It is your problem. I had a sprintbooster and it was fun for a bit until one day when my dash lit up with all the Pre-safe warnings and the the car went into limp mode on the freeway. It caught my attention! Then I was told it was from the sprintbooster and I removed it. No problems since. $300 lesson. Also, the issue could be a combination of the sprintbooster while in Sport mode. This may be why you think things are better while driving in C mode.
I don't have the eco mode "start/stop" (and thank God for that) and I very much doubt that the charging logic has anything to do with which driving mode you are in.
Lastly since you have a tune and all perhaps you are not worried about warranty? If you are, you do not want the the dealer seeing the sprintbooster (assuming that this is the same thing as the pedalbox you mentioned). And I assume the tune is reversible? such that you can switch back to stock for dealer visits?
Yes the pedalbox is similar to the Sprintbooster but with a nice curve so you are not at WOT at 60-70% throttle.
No I can say with absolute certainty that the pedalbox has NOTHING to do with my problem. I have not had the problem ever since I put the pedal box on, I had those issues without the pedalbox.
So let's forget the Pedalbox/Sprintbooster argument for a second, completely irrelevant to this case.
I get convenience functions shutting off periodically, I drive in sport mode mostly. Dealer says my accessory battery is dying, forgets to replace.
I start driving on comfort mode a bit more since start stop is disabled by Renntech (dealer installed Renntech tune BTW). I have had maybe 2 incidences of the same issue in a few months when I used to get it every other week at the least. Note I still drive in sport mode often cos comfort feels sluggish
When you start the car, start/stop is usually disabled. After driving around for a while, it becomes enabled. IMO is that lag time for the battery to be fully charged by alternator to enable easy start/stop function without depleting battery?
Also you can drive the car for hours in sport mode, switch to comfort mode and the car will still make you wait a few minutes before start/stop begins to function. If my above hypothesis is valid, maybe fully charging the accessory battery is not necessary in the charging algorithm unless start/stop is enabled. Not a far reach.
Now can someone with a lil more insight see if there is any truth to this
This topic brings up a question for me, does the accessory battery not fully charge when you drive in sport mode (where start stop is automatically disabled)?
I have been driving primarily in sport mode for a year now (until recently when I added the pedalbox). I have noticed that I get a few of my accessories go offline (Pre-Safe and something else currently unavailable, please see operators manual) from time to time. Happens sporadically and goes away on its own. Dealer obviously cannot duplicate it. Happened more in the colder weather than hot. Car has 36k miles on it
But the last time I took it in for that (when they preemptively changed my accelerator module and reprogrammed my ecu/tcu wiping out my Renntech), they claimed it was a dying accessory battery. I gave the ok to replace, but for some odd reason, they changed all the crap that was covered under CPO but did not change the battery out. Fast forward a few months have passed and I made it a point to drive in Comfort mode occasionally (since Renntech eliminated the start stop feature with the last updated tune). I have only seen that notification twice. Now that I have the pedalbox and I primarily drive in comfort mode, I do not think I will see that anymore (still watching).
I wonder if the car charges the accessory battery in comfort mode so it can help restart the car on start/stop, but not so much in sport or sport plus modes. You usually have start stop unavailable initially when you start the car anyway. What do folks here think about that?
I had a two day dash indication of a right side Pre-Safe malfunction that went away by day three. I took it to the dealer to see what codes it generated. The tech informed me that if you are in the habit of occasionally placing objects like briefcases on the front passenger seat, the Pre-Safe system recalibrates itself for the lighter weight "passenger" which then reduces the airbag deployment energy by a commensurate amount. If you then drive with nothing on the seat, you will get this error message for a day or two until the seat weight sensor recalibrates the tare to zero. Bottom line, don't drive around with anything weighing over a pound or two on the passenger seat if you want to avoid the warning light.
So I performed this replacement over the weekend. Took about 30 minutes, but if I were to do it a second time it could be done in 15 or 20 minutes.
I did use the DIY instructions posted up higher in this thread. I found a couple of inconsistencies that may be due to model year differences. For my 2011 I found the following differences in "STEP 2":
Bullet 2: calls out 3 Phillips screws in the lower dash panel. These are actually Torx head screws in the 2011.
Bullet 4: Says to "unbolt bracket number 3". There is nothing to unbolt. After the bolt in bullet 3 is removed, everything else is clipped on. There is a small plastic 5amp fuse bracket that clips onto the battery cage, and there are the 2 battery wires that clip on.
So for the entire job, there is actually only 1 10mm bolt to remove and replace from bullet 3. After this bolt comes out, the battery can be pulled out of the battery "cage" after the leads are pulled off.
Tip:
Make a note of the battery cage exact orientation before you let it drop. Otherwise, you will be trying to figure it out without the benefit of good sight or accessibility.
And thanks to OP of the DIY instructions. I'm guessing that he may have performed this on a different model or model year.
So I performed this replacement over the weekend. Took about 30 minutes, but if I were to do it a second time it could be done in 15 or 20 minutes.
I did use the DIY instructions posted up higher in this thread. I found a couple of inconsistencies that may be due to model year differences. For my 2011 I found the following differences in "STEP 2":
Bullet 2: calls out 3 Phillips screws in the lower dash panel. These are actually Torx head screws in the 2011.
Bullet 4: Says to "unbolt bracket number 3". There is nothing to unbolt. After the bolt in bullet 3 is removed, everything else is clipped on. There is a small plastic 5amp fuse bracket that clips onto the battery cage, and there are the 2 battery wires that clip on.
So for the entire job, there is actually only 1 10mm bolt to remove and replace from bullet 3. After this bolt comes out, the battery can be pulled out of the battery "cage" after the leads are pulled off.
Tip:
Make a note of the battery cage exact orientation before you let it drop. Otherwise, you will be trying to figure it out without the benefit of good sight or accessibility.
And thanks to OP of the DIY instructions. I'm guessing that he may have performed this on a different model or model year.
One thing to note also is after removing the bolt and remembering which way the drive cage goes. You can actually move the enter cage over to the battery size opening after removing the power leads and pop the battery right out and replace with ease instead of dropping it under the dash.
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