Installing dash cam in MY2014 ML350 and have questions
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Installing dash cam in MY2014 ML350 and have questions
Aloha everyone,
I will be installing a dash cam in my 2014 ML350, and I could just use the cigarette lighter adapter to power it, but I was interested in hardwiring it to my vehicle. I have attached a .pdf I made of my wiring diagram. I have three fuse boxes, and I would like to use the one in the passenger front side of the main cabin, but I'm not sure if I can. I only see two fuses rated at at least 12 volts. I noticed a caution notice that in Compartments A and C (engine and back seat, respectively), I have to use fuses with "S" appended.
In case I can't use the fuse box indicated, does anyone know if the standard BlackVue power cable can reach from the top of the windshield to the fuse box in the rear seats? That seems to be a pretty far bit to me.
I am leaning towards a Blackvue dash cam, probably one of the following: DR450-1CH, DR3500-FHD (with GPS module), or DR650GW-1CH. The hardwiring game plan is to utilize the Power Magic Pro and fuse taps. For those of you with a W166 that have installed dash cams, did you hardwire it, and if so, were you able to use the fuse box in the passenger front side of the main cabin?
I greatly appreciate any and all responses.
EDIT: I ended up ordering the BlackVue DR650GW-1CH. I went with that one over the 2-CH as the rear camera in the 2-CH package is only 720p. My wife was t-boned in our ML and we didn't even have the GoPro mounted, so there was some question as to culpability. We wanted to get a good system put in to at least have a video record the next time something happens, not to say that we actually expect to get in another accident.
To further clarify my earlier question - how much voltage is needed for dash cams? The cigarette light adapters, if I understand correctly, can take input of 12-24v and output 5v. In other words, could I tap a 5v fuse for that, or would that mean that I would be stealing all of that fuse's voltage for the dash cam? I need two taps, one with constant power, and one that switches on and off with the engine. If need be, I'll just run the power cable to hit either the front console, or rear of the center console, power sources. However, I would like to use the Parking mode feature and have ordered the Power Magic Pro to that end.
Obviously, I'm not an electrician, but I can understand the physical aspect of tapping a fuse, just not the theoretical aspect of how much voltage is initially needed. I will be seeking outside assistance as well, but think this is a good DIY project for me.
I will be installing a dash cam in my 2014 ML350, and I could just use the cigarette lighter adapter to power it, but I was interested in hardwiring it to my vehicle. I have attached a .pdf I made of my wiring diagram. I have three fuse boxes, and I would like to use the one in the passenger front side of the main cabin, but I'm not sure if I can. I only see two fuses rated at at least 12 volts. I noticed a caution notice that in Compartments A and C (engine and back seat, respectively), I have to use fuses with "S" appended.
In case I can't use the fuse box indicated, does anyone know if the standard BlackVue power cable can reach from the top of the windshield to the fuse box in the rear seats? That seems to be a pretty far bit to me.
I am leaning towards a Blackvue dash cam, probably one of the following: DR450-1CH, DR3500-FHD (with GPS module), or DR650GW-1CH. The hardwiring game plan is to utilize the Power Magic Pro and fuse taps. For those of you with a W166 that have installed dash cams, did you hardwire it, and if so, were you able to use the fuse box in the passenger front side of the main cabin?
I greatly appreciate any and all responses.
EDIT: I ended up ordering the BlackVue DR650GW-1CH. I went with that one over the 2-CH as the rear camera in the 2-CH package is only 720p. My wife was t-boned in our ML and we didn't even have the GoPro mounted, so there was some question as to culpability. We wanted to get a good system put in to at least have a video record the next time something happens, not to say that we actually expect to get in another accident.
To further clarify my earlier question - how much voltage is needed for dash cams? The cigarette light adapters, if I understand correctly, can take input of 12-24v and output 5v. In other words, could I tap a 5v fuse for that, or would that mean that I would be stealing all of that fuse's voltage for the dash cam? I need two taps, one with constant power, and one that switches on and off with the engine. If need be, I'll just run the power cable to hit either the front console, or rear of the center console, power sources. However, I would like to use the Parking mode feature and have ordered the Power Magic Pro to that end.
Obviously, I'm not an electrician, but I can understand the physical aspect of tapping a fuse, just not the theoretical aspect of how much voltage is initially needed. I will be seeking outside assistance as well, but think this is a good DIY project for me.
Last edited by bud.jones; 07-31-2016 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Clarify question
#2
Member
Thread Starter
Aloha again everyone,
I misidentified amps as volts in my first post, but in the interim, I've determined that I have to use the fuse box under the rear seats. I purchased a BlackVue DR650GW-1CH and a Power Magic Pro, which requires both constant as well as switched power. I have a couple of coworkers that will be helping me with my installation, but I'll post pictures and a writeup after it's all buttoned up, in case anyone else would like the information.
I misidentified amps as volts in my first post, but in the interim, I've determined that I have to use the fuse box under the rear seats. I purchased a BlackVue DR650GW-1CH and a Power Magic Pro, which requires both constant as well as switched power. I have a couple of coworkers that will be helping me with my installation, but I'll post pictures and a writeup after it's all buttoned up, in case anyone else would like the information.
The following users liked this post:
Don_CA (09-12-2020)
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 0
Received 54 Likes
on
48 Posts
'18 GLE63S AMG /'19 PORSCHE TURBO S / '09 CORVETTE ZR1 /'14 LEXUS RX350/'16 RAV4 Ltd
I just wired mine (650) into the o/h console..simple..stays on 24/7..draws little..I just turn it off if parked for 3-4 days
Push a pry device in to release a clip..do not try to pry open
I had this Invisicord for detector and removed/added the Blackvue end connector
Push a pry device in to release a clip..do not try to pry open
I had this Invisicord for detector and removed/added the Blackvue end connector
Last edited by Nanook; 08-03-2016 at 06:45 PM.
The following users liked this post:
bud.jones (08-05-2016)
#4
Member
I have a BlackVue DR650 mounted. I ran the wire to the passenger side fuse panel and wedged into the fuse for the Emergency Flashers if I remember right. I mounted the Power Magic Pro on the kick panel right below the glove box. Park Mode works well - usually runs for 6-8hrs in a busy lot before powering down. Have yet to experience any battery issues on either car.
Only thing I didn't have the heart to do was run the rear camera. I wasn't committed enough to remove paneling on the tail gate to run the wire for a clean install on the rear window.
I've done this with my C300 and now the ML - trouble free so far...
Only thing I didn't have the heart to do was run the rear camera. I wasn't committed enough to remove paneling on the tail gate to run the wire for a clean install on the rear window.
I've done this with my C300 and now the ML - trouble free so far...
The following users liked this post:
bud.jones (08-05-2016)
#5
Member
I had a Blackvue 650 with both cameras mounted on my ML350BT. I hardwired it via the fuse box on the side of the glovebox, and used the power magic pro. However I wasnt able to find a source of power that would be ON only with the ignition (not from this fuse box at least). I could have pulled a wire from the fuse box below the rear seat, but that would be quite painful to do so I ended up tapping onto the power cable for the tracking device that I had gotten installed, and that happened to be located in the passenger footwell. Regarding the rear camera, I didnt feel either like stripping the whole panelling on the tail gate. What I did was feed the cable below the headliner, coming out just in front of the camera, then pass below the rubber gasket. From there it was going onto the tail gate and I stuck the cable right in between the 2 sides of the trim around the rear window. At the end it was nearly not noticeable, and I did not have to strip/break anything.
The following users liked this post:
bud.jones (08-05-2016)
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Aloha everyone,
Thanks for the replies. I still think I'm going to run it along the headliner around and behind the rear door, then use two add-a-fuse adapters in the rear seat fuse box. Nanook's process is a bit too advanced for me, and I think I've found a good, hidden, spot for the PMP. The rear seat fuse box has both constant and switched power fuses from which to choose.
I just checked Amazon and it should arrive on Tuesday. Depending on availability of the add-a-fuse adapters here in Honolulu, I would hope to have everything run by the weekend (I work until 5:00PM every day and have at least a 1 hour drive home after that) - I'll probably just use the power outlet behind the center console until then. I have a coworker with a multimeter, so we'll determine the fuses to be tapped this afternoon. I can't wait until it gets in.
UPDATE: My coworker and I just completed our check of the rear seat fuse box. I've identified several potential candidates, but would like to hear if y'all think I'm going down the right path. Here are the potential candidates:
Constant Power
127 30a Driver seat controls
129 30a Passenger seat controls
153 25a Outlet 15v - AC converter
Switched Power
147 30a Radio/COMAND/Audio/Navigation
148 15a Cigarette lighter/Output
150 20a Outlet 12v, Trunk area
Of the ones mentioned above, I was considering using 153 for constant power and 150 for switched power. I'm not a smoker, so I could also use 148.
The final remaining questions I have are concerning the fuses to be used in the add-a-fuse adapter. I've seen one hookup with a 3a fuse, but I've seen them being sold on Amazon with 15a fuses. I've been told that dash cams don't require a lot of power, but what capacity fuse do y'all suggest? Also, I have a document that states the W166 uses both ATO and Maxi fuses, but doesn't specify which ones are used where. Does anyone know, or can anyone point me in the right direction to find out? I do know the ones in the rear sear fuse box need to have the "S" appended to the voltage stamped on the fuse.
Once again, thank you for all the responses.
Thanks for the replies. I still think I'm going to run it along the headliner around and behind the rear door, then use two add-a-fuse adapters in the rear seat fuse box. Nanook's process is a bit too advanced for me, and I think I've found a good, hidden, spot for the PMP. The rear seat fuse box has both constant and switched power fuses from which to choose.
I just checked Amazon and it should arrive on Tuesday. Depending on availability of the add-a-fuse adapters here in Honolulu, I would hope to have everything run by the weekend (I work until 5:00PM every day and have at least a 1 hour drive home after that) - I'll probably just use the power outlet behind the center console until then. I have a coworker with a multimeter, so we'll determine the fuses to be tapped this afternoon. I can't wait until it gets in.
UPDATE: My coworker and I just completed our check of the rear seat fuse box. I've identified several potential candidates, but would like to hear if y'all think I'm going down the right path. Here are the potential candidates:
Constant Power
127 30a Driver seat controls
129 30a Passenger seat controls
153 25a Outlet 15v - AC converter
Switched Power
147 30a Radio/COMAND/Audio/Navigation
148 15a Cigarette lighter/Output
150 20a Outlet 12v, Trunk area
Of the ones mentioned above, I was considering using 153 for constant power and 150 for switched power. I'm not a smoker, so I could also use 148.
The final remaining questions I have are concerning the fuses to be used in the add-a-fuse adapter. I've seen one hookup with a 3a fuse, but I've seen them being sold on Amazon with 15a fuses. I've been told that dash cams don't require a lot of power, but what capacity fuse do y'all suggest? Also, I have a document that states the W166 uses both ATO and Maxi fuses, but doesn't specify which ones are used where. Does anyone know, or can anyone point me in the right direction to find out? I do know the ones in the rear sear fuse box need to have the "S" appended to the voltage stamped on the fuse.
Once again, thank you for all the responses.
Last edited by bud.jones; 08-05-2016 at 10:10 PM.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Aloha everyone,
Well, I got the notification that it was delivered today! I'm working with a friend to get it hardwired - I still have to pick up the add-a-fuse adapters and a couple of 5a fuses, then select a good ground and all, but in the interim, I can install it and run the power around the windshield then up and over the front and rear doors, then down to the rear seats. I should have enough to run it to the power outlet in the back of the center console (between the front seats). It's about 10 feet routing it that way down to the rear seats, so if the BlackVue power cable is longer than 12 feet, I'm good. I'll let y'all know when it's all fully installed (hardwired and everything). Thanks again for all the great information you've given me.
UPDATE: I installed my DR650GW-1CH last night, but currently have to use the power outlet on the back of the center console. The Car Quest guy swore that he had the piggyback add-a-circuit adapters, but when I got to the shop, he claimed that he misunderstood what I mentioned on the phone - he actually tried to sell me fuses. I was able to run the cable along the windshield, then across and over the front and rear passenger doors, then down to the rear seats. I had planned on pulling up the trim and routing it under the carpet to the fuse box, but I'll have to wait for the adapters. I simply ran it under the rear seats until I got to the middle, then plugged it into the power outlet. I don't have Parking Mode capability, but a local NAPA store has the adapters and I'll get them installed tonight, hopefully. I did a test run last night and the video was very nice indeed. In the daytime, a bit of pixelation is noticeable on fast moving objects, but the bit rate was just a little over 8Mbps. I've updated the firmware so I should get around 10Mbps - I'm not sure how much that will improve the video, but I'll check it as soon as I get home.
FINAL UPDATE: I worked with my coworker to get my DR650GW-1CH hardwired, and it was actually much easier than I imagined. The power cable was long enough to run behind the rear door on the passenger side, and the fuse box was under the passenger-side rear seat. I was able to use an add-a-circuit fuse adapter with a 5a (silver) fuse (for the dash cam) on slot 150 (Outlet 12v, trunk area) for switched, and 153 (Outlet 115v - AC Converter) for constant, power. Everything is working perfectly thus far. I have the Power Magic Pro set to 12v shutoff and infinite recording.
I've included three pictures of my install showing the fuse box with the adapters, the PMP (I plan on buttoning up the wires this weekend), and the ground.
Well, I got the notification that it was delivered today! I'm working with a friend to get it hardwired - I still have to pick up the add-a-fuse adapters and a couple of 5a fuses, then select a good ground and all, but in the interim, I can install it and run the power around the windshield then up and over the front and rear doors, then down to the rear seats. I should have enough to run it to the power outlet in the back of the center console (between the front seats). It's about 10 feet routing it that way down to the rear seats, so if the BlackVue power cable is longer than 12 feet, I'm good. I'll let y'all know when it's all fully installed (hardwired and everything). Thanks again for all the great information you've given me.
UPDATE: I installed my DR650GW-1CH last night, but currently have to use the power outlet on the back of the center console. The Car Quest guy swore that he had the piggyback add-a-circuit adapters, but when I got to the shop, he claimed that he misunderstood what I mentioned on the phone - he actually tried to sell me fuses. I was able to run the cable along the windshield, then across and over the front and rear passenger doors, then down to the rear seats. I had planned on pulling up the trim and routing it under the carpet to the fuse box, but I'll have to wait for the adapters. I simply ran it under the rear seats until I got to the middle, then plugged it into the power outlet. I don't have Parking Mode capability, but a local NAPA store has the adapters and I'll get them installed tonight, hopefully. I did a test run last night and the video was very nice indeed. In the daytime, a bit of pixelation is noticeable on fast moving objects, but the bit rate was just a little over 8Mbps. I've updated the firmware so I should get around 10Mbps - I'm not sure how much that will improve the video, but I'll check it as soon as I get home.
FINAL UPDATE: I worked with my coworker to get my DR650GW-1CH hardwired, and it was actually much easier than I imagined. The power cable was long enough to run behind the rear door on the passenger side, and the fuse box was under the passenger-side rear seat. I was able to use an add-a-circuit fuse adapter with a 5a (silver) fuse (for the dash cam) on slot 150 (Outlet 12v, trunk area) for switched, and 153 (Outlet 115v - AC Converter) for constant, power. Everything is working perfectly thus far. I have the Power Magic Pro set to 12v shutoff and infinite recording.
I've included three pictures of my install showing the fuse box with the adapters, the PMP (I plan on buttoning up the wires this weekend), and the ground.
Last edited by bud.jones; 08-11-2016 at 11:01 PM. Reason: Add additional comments
Trending Topics
#8
Do you have photos to show how you do it? Thanks!
#9
Member
#12
#13
Member
Sorry, I was busy last week so didn't had time to reply you. Finally, I had wired up my cameras on Monday. Please see attached photo how I did it. At the red circle, I pulled up the rubber seal and passed the cable over then I pushed it back. You can see the hump where the cable passes thru. I hope this is what you meant in your comment above.
Last edited by 350MH83; 09-14-2017 at 04:00 AM.
#14
Aloha everyone,
Well, I got the notification that it was delivered today! I'm working with a friend to get it hardwired - I still have to pick up the add-a-fuse adapters and a couple of 5a fuses, then select a good ground and all, but in the interim, I can install it and run the power around the windshield then up and over the front and rear doors, then down to the rear seats. I should have enough to run it to the power outlet in the back of the center console (between the front seats). It's about 10 feet routing it that way down to the rear seats, so if the BlackVue power cable is longer than 12 feet, I'm good. I'll let y'all know when it's all fully installed (hardwired and everything). Thanks again for all the great information you've given me.
UPDATE: I installed my DR650GW-1CH last night, but currently have to use the power outlet on the back of the center console. The Car Quest guy swore that he had the piggyback add-a-circuit adapters, but when I got to the shop, he claimed that he misunderstood what I mentioned on the phone - he actually tried to sell me fuses. I was able to run the cable along the windshield, then across and over the front and rear passenger doors, then down to the rear seats. I had planned on pulling up the trim and routing it under the carpet to the fuse box, but I'll have to wait for the adapters. I simply ran it under the rear seats until I got to the middle, then plugged it into the power outlet. I don't have Parking Mode capability, but a local NAPA store has the adapters and I'll get them installed tonight, hopefully. I did a test run last night and the video was very nice indeed. In the daytime, a bit of pixelation is noticeable on fast moving objects, but the bit rate was just a little over 8Mbps. I've updated the firmware so I should get around 10Mbps - I'm not sure how much that will improve the video, but I'll check it as soon as I get home.
FINAL UPDATE: I worked with my coworker to get my DR650GW-1CH hardwired, and it was actually much easier than I imagined. The power cable was long enough to run behind the rear door on the passenger side, and the fuse box was under the passenger-side rear seat. I was able to use an add-a-circuit fuse adapter with a 5a (silver) fuse (for the dash cam) on slot 150 (Outlet 12v, trunk area) for switched, and 153 (Outlet 115v - AC Converter) for constant, power. Everything is working perfectly thus far. I have the Power Magic Pro set to 12v shutoff and infinite recording.
I've included three pictures of my install showing the fuse box with the adapters, the PMP (I plan on buttoning up the wires this weekend), and the ground.
Well, I got the notification that it was delivered today! I'm working with a friend to get it hardwired - I still have to pick up the add-a-fuse adapters and a couple of 5a fuses, then select a good ground and all, but in the interim, I can install it and run the power around the windshield then up and over the front and rear doors, then down to the rear seats. I should have enough to run it to the power outlet in the back of the center console (between the front seats). It's about 10 feet routing it that way down to the rear seats, so if the BlackVue power cable is longer than 12 feet, I'm good. I'll let y'all know when it's all fully installed (hardwired and everything). Thanks again for all the great information you've given me.
UPDATE: I installed my DR650GW-1CH last night, but currently have to use the power outlet on the back of the center console. The Car Quest guy swore that he had the piggyback add-a-circuit adapters, but when I got to the shop, he claimed that he misunderstood what I mentioned on the phone - he actually tried to sell me fuses. I was able to run the cable along the windshield, then across and over the front and rear passenger doors, then down to the rear seats. I had planned on pulling up the trim and routing it under the carpet to the fuse box, but I'll have to wait for the adapters. I simply ran it under the rear seats until I got to the middle, then plugged it into the power outlet. I don't have Parking Mode capability, but a local NAPA store has the adapters and I'll get them installed tonight, hopefully. I did a test run last night and the video was very nice indeed. In the daytime, a bit of pixelation is noticeable on fast moving objects, but the bit rate was just a little over 8Mbps. I've updated the firmware so I should get around 10Mbps - I'm not sure how much that will improve the video, but I'll check it as soon as I get home.
FINAL UPDATE: I worked with my coworker to get my DR650GW-1CH hardwired, and it was actually much easier than I imagined. The power cable was long enough to run behind the rear door on the passenger side, and the fuse box was under the passenger-side rear seat. I was able to use an add-a-circuit fuse adapter with a 5a (silver) fuse (for the dash cam) on slot 150 (Outlet 12v, trunk area) for switched, and 153 (Outlet 115v - AC Converter) for constant, power. Everything is working perfectly thus far. I have the Power Magic Pro set to 12v shutoff and infinite recording.
I've included three pictures of my install showing the fuse box with the adapters, the PMP (I plan on buttoning up the wires this weekend), and the ground.
#15
Member
Use the USB in the cubby box, its easy to remove the centre consul and plug it in, job done, works on wake up. I ordered a 4M long mini usb to standard usb and its fine, you might have to cover the 2 middle pins on the usb so its change only no data
#16
Gle w166 2017 dash cam installation
I cannot believe you got it to work on a MB.... I have a 2017 GLE350, used both 150 and 153 on a Blackvue Power Magic Pro, but with no luck... they must have changed something in this year... spent two hours on this, very frustrating... Cannot seems to find a good BATT and ACC fuses...
I have a similar situation as you are. Did you finally found switched fuse for magic power?
Thanks