C63 LED light bar.....(yeah, I know)
#26
Junior Member
I do not have HIDs stock; I have halogens but I upgraded to DDM Tuning HIDs and even with the anti-flicker BOW Error Eliminator, I still get flicker and inconsistent color, so I've considered switching to OPT7s for those. Do the dust caps still fit nicely still even with the big fan on the back? And no other resistors or anything required to stop any bulb out warnings or any issues at all? Plug-and-play just like stock?
#27
Super Member
Thread Starter
I do not have HIDs stock; I have halogens but I upgraded to DDM Tuning HIDs and even with the anti-flicker BOW Error Eliminator, I still get flicker and inconsistent color, so I've considered switching to OPT7s for those. Do the dust caps still fit nicely still even with the big fan on the back? And no other resistors or anything required to stop any bulb out warnings or any issues at all? Plug-and-play just like stock?
#28
Junior Member
2009 or 2010? Pre-Facelift.
#29
Super Member
Thread Starter
Ok, so I must admit I'm not that familiar with the halogen version of the w204 headlight so it MAY be different....but on the projector units the hi beam is NOT directly centered inside the access panel, it is located offset to the outside....with this being said the rear of the housing actually makes contact with the rear if the opt7 heat sink fins....what I did was before installing I took the fan off the light bulbs and used a dremel to shorten them until it cleared....they are aluminum and very thin so it doesn't take but just a minute and there is plenty left for cooling....if you are using them in the lo beam then you should have PLENTY of room as that bulb IS centered in the opening
#30
Junior Member
Ok, so I must admit I'm not that familiar with the halogen version of the w204 headlight so it MAY be different....but on the projector units the hi beam is NOT directly centered inside the access panel, it is located offset to the outside....with this being said the rear of the housing actually makes contact with the rear if the opt7 heat sink fins....what I did was before installing I took the fan off the light bulbs and used a dremel to shorten them until it cleared....they are aluminum and very thin so it doesn't take but just a minute and there is plenty left for cooling....if you are using them in the lo beam then you should have PLENTY of room as that bulb IS centered in the opening
#31
Super Member
Thread Starter
#32
Super Member
Not trying to sound like an ***, because I honestly think the LED bar is cool as hell on a C63 in the front of the car. Reminds me almost like an undercover Dubai cop.
But have you ever even considered a truck or a Jeep? A "beater" for the daily driving and a C63 for the weekend fun?
But have you ever even considered a truck or a Jeep? A "beater" for the daily driving and a C63 for the weekend fun?
#33
Junior Member
Not trying to sound like an ***, because I honestly think the LED bar is cool as hell on a C63 in the front of the car. Reminds me almost like an undercover Dubai cop.
But have you ever even considered a truck or a Jeep? A "beater" for the daily driving and a C63 for the weekend fun?
But have you ever even considered a truck or a Jeep? A "beater" for the daily driving and a C63 for the weekend fun?
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FactoryFast (07-28-2018)
#34
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2010 M_B C300 ... Wife drives a 2007 GL450
I have actually been thinking about this mod for my 2010 C300 ... Great idea for those dark roads in Florida .. Especially for the wife when she drives I early for work ... Did you have to take the bumper off to install??? Or can you install from underneath by removing the plastic covers?? Any ideas would be great .. Sick ride by the way
#35
MBWorld Fanatic!
There is zero chance you could do this without removing the front bumper. The oil cooler is definitely in the way from underneath.
#36
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2010 M_B C300 ... Wife drives a 2007 GL450
So, I already know that for a lot of you guys this will be a vomit inducing venture BUT I happen to not only DD my Benz but also drive to work around 4am through 20mi of the most desolate/deer infested back country roads in the continental United States so the more light I have in front of me the better, period. (hell, what i should have done was put on an expedition style roof rack with a 52" LED light bar and called it a day!!!)
...but anyway.....
I test and review lots of LED and HID products for numerous manufacturers so I have a pretty good knowledge base about what is good and what is not. With that being said I recently tested a new light bar setup with the new 5D fisheye lenses and was VERY impressed with the output and quality so I decided I'd throw it in the Merc...
22" LED Light Bar was a PERFECT fit for the lower center grill. Yes, there is a cooler behind it that needs airflow BUT there is plenty of room around the Light Bar with it installed as there is a deflector/diverter at the bottom of the grill that directs incoming air up and through the lower cooler(I drive pretty hard a lot of the times and even with the still 95* days i have seen ZERO increase in temp)
the only thing that i needed that was not included with this particular kit were some small L brackets so that i could mount them to the front aluminum support and then hang the light bar vertically down from them, easy as pie. For the record there is PLENTY of room behind the lower grill even though it doesnt look like it. The center of the light bar is roughly 4" behind the center of the grill and the sides are roughly 2" from the outsides of the grill.
...also, i did not use the switch that came with the AWESOME relay harness for the light bar, instead I cut off the switch itself and tapped the relay harness trigger feed into the headlight hi-beam feed. That way i can NOT turn on the light bar individually(by accident or on purpose) but the light bar comes on with the hi-beams
...but anyway.....
I test and review lots of LED and HID products for numerous manufacturers so I have a pretty good knowledge base about what is good and what is not. With that being said I recently tested a new light bar setup with the new 5D fisheye lenses and was VERY impressed with the output and quality so I decided I'd throw it in the Merc...
22" LED Light Bar was a PERFECT fit for the lower center grill. Yes, there is a cooler behind it that needs airflow BUT there is plenty of room around the Light Bar with it installed as there is a deflector/diverter at the bottom of the grill that directs incoming air up and through the lower cooler(I drive pretty hard a lot of the times and even with the still 95* days i have seen ZERO increase in temp)
the only thing that i needed that was not included with this particular kit were some small L brackets so that i could mount them to the front aluminum support and then hang the light bar vertically down from them, easy as pie. For the record there is PLENTY of room behind the lower grill even though it doesnt look like it. The center of the light bar is roughly 4" behind the center of the grill and the sides are roughly 2" from the outsides of the grill.
...also, i did not use the switch that came with the AWESOME relay harness for the light bar, instead I cut off the switch itself and tapped the relay harness trigger feed into the headlight hi-beam feed. That way i can NOT turn on the light bar individually(by accident or on purpose) but the light bar comes on with the hi-beams
#37
Super Member
Thread Starter
I'm at my place in Panama City right now so I cant take you any pics of the brackets I used(have some spares in my shop) but they are just standard 90° shelving style brackets you can get at any hardware store. The bumper literally takes 5mim to remove so no issues there. You will have to hollow out a little of the styrofoam bumper padding to clear the brackets but you can tear it out with your fingers. When you tie it into power my suggestion is to run the +/- direct to battery (underhood jump location) and then tie the switch leg into the hi-beam. By doing this it ONLY works on hi and you don't have to run/mount a switch inside. Also I originally had it mounted behind the grill hidden but have since cut and molded the grill so it is open and like it SOOOOOO much better. I will take better pics in the morming.
#38
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2010 M_B C300 ... Wife drives a 2007 GL450
I'm at my place in Panama City right now so I cant take you any pics of the brackets I used(have some spares in my shop) but they are just standard 90° shelving style brackets you can get at any hardware store. The bumper literally takes 5mim to remove so no issues there. You will have to hollow out a little of the styrofoam bumper padding to clear the brackets but you can tear it out with your fingers. When you tie it into power my suggestion is to run the +/- direct to battery (underhood jump location) and then tie the switch leg into the hi-beam. By doing this it ONLY works on hi and you don't have to run/mount a switch inside. Also I originally had it mounted behind the grill hidden but have since cut and molded the grill so it is open and like it SOOOOOO much better. I will take better pics in the morming.
#39
Super Member
Thread Starter
I'll get you a day time pic tomorrow, and molding for grill/grating/expanded metal is always easy-vacuum hose or fuel line cut down one side and 45° mitered in the corners like a picture frame
#41
Member
Also not trying to sound like an @$$ in response, but he may be like me. The daily commute is torture UNLESS I'm in something I love driving, so I can't drive to work daily in a beater. Most of my driving is to and from work, so that's where I need something I'm happy in more than anything.
OP, looks like you have unlimited visibility with that bar...looks like mission accomplished.
Last edited by FactoryFast; 07-28-2018 at 05:31 AM.
#42
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#44
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#45
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'04 E55 (Gone but not forgotten), '13 C63 P31 (RIP), another '13 C63 PP
I don't get why you're trying to attack me, though.
#46
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