When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A while back the blower pulley bearing let go and was noisy.
when i changed it all I noticed the clutch face was quite scored.
but I figured it was okay as the blower mating face was also scored.
So I did not machine the pulley and left it.
I notice now the clutch does not seem to engage all the time. Now I can feel the blower kick in more than before.
I thought my clearance was out so i pulled the shim out and it is a little better but still not like it was a year ago.
if i nail it from idle it is fine, but before if i nailed it at 60 mph, it would light the tires up... doesn't do that any more
I would buy a new top pulley, but I am worried that the blower mating face is not flat, so it may be worse ??
I could get a non clutched pulley, but not too sure on them at the moment.
really don't need any more power, makes just on 500 rwhp now, and is enough for a daily.
Aside from checking belt and tensioner ,You dont mention if the upper pulley is stock , reason I'm asking is I had an aftermarket pulleys outer edge pull in after a few years , that outer part only was all that was touching the coupling drum and it started slipping,look at the front edge of the coupling drum for signs of heat discoloration,should still look like this
New face looks like this ,for comparison to yours
If the clutched outer pulley is slipping it gives off a metallic smell ,but that leading edge of the coupling drum will be heat discolored.
If all looks ok ,maybe check that your Intercooler pump isn't bad or intermittent ,do you data log ? IAT s ? know anyone with STAR you can activate magnate with that to check activation and holding force with an old belt wrapped around the pulley and a tool of your choice to try and turn the pulley, you have to secure the coupler with dual hose clamps or whatever else suits you
* On my STAR system the clutch magnate setting was backwards
OFF MAGNATE WAS ON MAGNATE ??? Lol
Good luck,hope it's not a wire chasing job
Last edited by cnterline; Mar 25, 2017 at 10:30 AM.
Thanks everyone, there is red dust everywhere again. I only replaced the bearing 5000 miles ago.
i will try and pull it off and have a look.
The drum.. Can you buy it ? the mating face on my drum is worse than a brake rotor and so is the aftermarket pulley.
I am sure a new drum and pulley will fix it, but that also sounds expensive.
I will check the IAT, they should be okay unless the larger pump and so on has failed.
has split cooling, bigger pump, bigger heat exchanger and so on.
You could take the drum and pulley to a machine shop and have them resurfaced, I'm sure it would only around 50 dollars, just make sure you shim it right afterwards.
You could take the drum and pulley to a machine shop and have them resurfaced, I'm sure it would only around 50 dollars, just make sure you shim it right afterwards.
Actually I can do that myself, I have a lathe.
How do I remove the drum ?
You really can't reface it ,there is 2 circles of clutch material on that coupler,see above picture it's like 600 new from dealer ,use a puller with a map torch very carefully,
This is a pic of my beat up one,see the crack in the clutch material
Make sure the tool you are using to resurface it is sharp then, I'm sure you know, check your work with a straight edge.
If it for some crazy reason doesn't work out you really aren't out anything considering you have the tools.
The dealer can get the drum , , put a flat edge across the clutched pulley and see how much outside edge is pulled in, prior to getting the new parts i machined outer edge of both pieces ,no slipping after I did that ,but still got all new stuff,
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Centerline, any recommendations on a particular puller? ALso, how hard is reinstall of a new one? What special considerations do you need to be aware of (beyond damaging the dowels)?
Any recommendations regarding replacing the magneto as well?
A new hub has no dowels ,from the instructions I had from all data it was to heat up the hub to 320 deg f and slide on which worked perfect, removing old one kinda did the same thing with heat and used a 2 arm puller , the hub is easily bent if you're not careful removing,it's not solid see pics ,remove dowels with vicegrips prior to removing coupler.
Concentrate the heat where the hub actually contacts the shaft,don't worry about the magnet,put the puller on and load it slightly then start heating up coupler you will see it move or hear it move (a little creak or pop) just go slow
Last edited by cnterline; Mar 29, 2017 at 09:39 AM.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
