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I need to do this soon. Just did the wife's Z3 last weekend, similar process, but no torque converter drain and it does have a fill plug. I made wood 'cribbage' to park the car on, very stable.
I'm about to do the ATF + filter change on my 2005 CLK500 with 7 speed trany 722.901 myself. Since the mechanic used BG fluid, I'd like to replace all fluid with either Fuchs Titan ATF 4134 or Shell 134. Is there any way to flush the ATF cooler and lines at the same time?
Have you or anyone done the transmission software update? How much is it? Is it the same as Reset Transmission Adaptive Shifting? I'm thinking on doing it on my 2005 CLK500 with 7 speed trany.
Thanks.
No, it is not the same. A software update has to be done by the dealer. But that assumes there is an update for your transmission that has not already been loaded.
My dealer charges 1.5 hour of labor to update the transmission software. There was an initial update to all 722.9's that changed shift behavior. The most noticeable was that it waits until the car is stopped (0mph) before downshifting form 2 to 1, thus avoiding a sometimes harsh clunk when coming to stop. But it also improves all shifting.
As I'm getting ready to do the ATF + filter change on my 2005 CLK500 with 7 speed trany 722.901, I came across one of the posts where High-End Fluke infrared Thermometer's readings measuring temperature at the pan were compared with MB STAR, and it says that it was OFF by a much as 10°C! And it warns not to use the IR Thermometer. I don't have the MB star, and was planning to use the infrared thermometer. Now I'm concerned that it will affect the level significantly. Has anyone compared the readings of MB Star and IR Thermometer? Thank you.
The last change I did, I used a Ryobi IR thermometer on the transmission fluid pan and compared to SDS and it was spot on. I can't guarantee that all IR thermometers will match, but mine did. Knowing how hard it is to get to 113F, if it's off by a few degrees, I'd not worry much.
I appreciate your quick response. This is what I was hopping to hear. I'll probably get the IR thermometers from amazon. It looks like Etekcity Lasergrip 774 or Etekcity Lasergrip 800 have good ratings.
Hi, there are few things I’d like to clarify before I start:
- When shifted in neutral, does the key stay in the ignition?
- When car is lifted, it looks like the car and not the transmission pan must be horizontal. The MB document says “The vehicle must be horizontal on the vehicle lift in the longitudinal and transverse direction.
- Is the ATF filling 2 stage process (6L first and then 4L), or it can be done in one fill?
Thanks.
The engine is running during the fluid level measurement process. It will be in neutral except when you run through the gears, which is to bring the fluid to the prescribed 113F temperature. Since you will have the rear wheels off the ground, when you do shift into reverse or drive, make certain that you have your foot on the brake - you do NOT want to spin the tires "in the air" as this can cause catastrophic (i.e. deadly!) tire failure!
It is the transmission pan that must be level. There is no two-stage filling. Refill capacity with filter change and torque converter drain is about 9 quarts, so if you refill with 10 quarts, you'll end up draining out about 1 quart to set the level at 113F.
I meant in the beginning, in order to rotate the crankshaft to locate the TC drain. The engine is off with the trany in neutral. But the key will be in the ignition. I don't think you can get the key out in neutral. Right?
Doesn't matter what gear you are in for that. Because of the TC, your engine is basically independent of the tranny. It can be in park. Your engine doesnt' know.
I need a help! Today I finally decided to change the ATF. Before I drained it, I tried to locate the Torgue converter drain plug (that was one of the main reasons to do it myself). It looks like my 2005 CLK500 has 3 black covers. I'm slowly turning the engine and can't see the plug.
In what opening should it be? I can see through the middle opening there is a welded plate on the TC. The pics are attached. Thanks.
It will be a very tiny drain plug, about the diameter of a #2 pencil. Use an Allen hex wrench, not Torx, to remove it. Make a chalk mark on the torque converter to see that you have gone all the way around. It is possible that yours is a very early 722.9 and there is no drain.
I can't believe that I could miss it. I've done 3-4 full rotations. Since the rubber covers looked different from what members posted, I wasn't 100% sure where to look. So I opened all 3 covers, and tried to look through all of them. I'm very disappointed that my car doesn't have the TC drain. I was hopping to replace entire fluid. Is there any way to do it DYI without professional flush machine?
The problem is, there is no fill tube, so refilling as the the fluid pumps out would be the challenge. Maybe something could be configured to suck it back in through the detached cooling lines? Although not a true flush, you could replace the 4-5 quarts from the pan drop, then refill, run for a few minutes, drain, refill (through the plug), and repeat that a few times until you've gone through 12 quarts.
02-21-2017, 09:00 AM
