2000 S500 no start, no crank, no power. $25 reward
10-02-2014, 04:50 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
2000 S500 no start, no crank, no power. $25 reward
2000 Mercedes S500, no start, no crank no power. Turning the ignition key from position 0 to position 1, 2 or 3 has no effect. I can turn the key so EIS recognizes it. If EIS was the issue then one of two things should happen, the car will not allow you to turn the key or the dashboard will display a message saying the key is not authorized.
With the key in position 0 I can turn on the stereo. In position 1 or 2 the power windows and power locks are inoperable. Vehicle does not recognize that the key is being turned from position 0. It does recognize that the key is inserted and I do hear relays clicking when this happens.
Checked all fuse boxes, checked relays with a multimeter and a 12v source testing resistance between 30 and 87 (and 87a where applicable) with the relay open and closed. Checked wiring on passenger side fuse box and found black/white wire that was broken, rejoined it with no effect.
I have tried connecting a scan tool, snap on modis, it will not communicate with any of the modules because they are not powered on until the ignition is in the "on" position.
I have all tools necessary, I have access to All Data and Mitchells OnDemand. The ignition switch is one of the least documented items on both.
Will paypal $25 to the person who can help me troubleshoot this problem.
With the key in position 0 I can turn on the stereo. In position 1 or 2 the power windows and power locks are inoperable. Vehicle does not recognize that the key is being turned from position 0. It does recognize that the key is inserted and I do hear relays clicking when this happens.
Checked all fuse boxes, checked relays with a multimeter and a 12v source testing resistance between 30 and 87 (and 87a where applicable) with the relay open and closed. Checked wiring on passenger side fuse box and found black/white wire that was broken, rejoined it with no effect.
I have tried connecting a scan tool, snap on modis, it will not communicate with any of the modules because they are not powered on until the ignition is in the "on" position.
I have all tools necessary, I have access to All Data and Mitchells OnDemand. The ignition switch is one of the least documented items on both.
Will paypal $25 to the person who can help me troubleshoot this problem.
10-02-2014, 05:28 PM
#3
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'06 MB S55 AMG; '04 Audi Allroad 4.2; '05 BMW M3 Conv.; '92 MB 500E
2000 Mercedes S500, no start, no crank no power. Turning the ignition key from position 0 to position 1, 2 or 3 has no effect. I can turn the key so EIS recognizes it. If EIS was the issue then one of two things should happen, the car will not allow you to turn the key or the dashboard will display a message saying the key is not authorized.
With the key in position 0 I can turn on the stereo. In position 1 or 2 the power windows and power locks are inoperable. Vehicle does not recognize that the key is being turned from position 0. It does recognize that the key is inserted and I do hear relays clicking when this happens.
Checked all fuse boxes, checked relays with a multimeter and a 12v source testing resistance between 30 and 87 (and 87a where applicable) with the relay open and closed. Checked wiring on passenger side fuse box and found black/white wire that was broken, rejoined it with no effect.
I have tried connecting a scan tool, snap on modis, it will not communicate with any of the modules because they are not powered on until the ignition is in the "on" position.
I have all tools necessary, I have access to All Data and Mitchells OnDemand. The ignition switch is one of the least documented items on both.
Will paypal $25 to the person who can help me troubleshoot this problem.
With the key in position 0 I can turn on the stereo. In position 1 or 2 the power windows and power locks are inoperable. Vehicle does not recognize that the key is being turned from position 0. It does recognize that the key is inserted and I do hear relays clicking when this happens.
Checked all fuse boxes, checked relays with a multimeter and a 12v source testing resistance between 30 and 87 (and 87a where applicable) with the relay open and closed. Checked wiring on passenger side fuse box and found black/white wire that was broken, rejoined it with no effect.
I have tried connecting a scan tool, snap on modis, it will not communicate with any of the modules because they are not powered on until the ignition is in the "on" position.
I have all tools necessary, I have access to All Data and Mitchells OnDemand. The ignition switch is one of the least documented items on both.
Will paypal $25 to the person who can help me troubleshoot this problem.
maw
10-02-2014, 10:32 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Figured it out.
There are several poorly documented fuse blocks (shown in wiring diagrams but no locations or service info is listed) throughout the car, Mercedes calls them Junction Blocks. Each contains several fuses which Mercedes does not sell separately (silly as how you need to remove the individual fuses to remove the junction block). In my case the junction block beneath the front passenger carpet had a burned out fuse. I was able to verify this by bridging the fuse and my cluster lit up with the key in position 2. Could only do this temporarily as the wire became hot after a few seconds. I talked to a few dismantlers and they said these junction blocks are the first to sell.
There are several poorly documented fuse blocks (shown in wiring diagrams but no locations or service info is listed) throughout the car, Mercedes calls them Junction Blocks. Each contains several fuses which Mercedes does not sell separately (silly as how you need to remove the individual fuses to remove the junction block). In my case the junction block beneath the front passenger carpet had a burned out fuse. I was able to verify this by bridging the fuse and my cluster lit up with the key in position 2. Could only do this temporarily as the wire became hot after a few seconds. I talked to a few dismantlers and they said these junction blocks are the first to sell.
10-03-2014, 06:32 AM
#6
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2006 S430 4Matic
I took mine out changing my alternator. Dealer item only. Mine was over $100. They are a real PIA to change because they have to be worked on from both inside and under the car. It is located under a shield above the front CAT.
10-06-2014, 03:59 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
After replacing the 60a fuse it blew as soon as I turned the key to the Start position. According to a poster at BenzWorld a short on this circuit may be caused by water in the Electronic Gear Selector module or connector, I will investigate on my own car.
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12-26-2014, 01:50 AM
#9
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S500
My car does the same did u find out what it was
Did u find out the problem my car doing the same thing
12-26-2014, 03:46 AM
#10
Junior Member
was just curious, would the w203 also be wired the same way by any chance?
Nothing wrong yet with mine but it would be nice to know when it does happen
Nothing wrong yet with mine but it would be nice to know when it does happen
01-16-2015, 01:44 AM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I went through the car, checking all wiring, junction blocks, computers, relays, fuses... etc. Out of desperation I threw a 100a fuse on the circuit and fried the ground for the starter relay (87a prong). This ruined the fuse box, got a new fuse box and threw everything back in, started up. My guess is due to a faulty relay (high resistance when switched on) and heat build up the fuse box overheated and melted internally, I just added to it with a higher amp rating fuse.
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CerBErusM113 (05-03-2017)
05-03-2017, 11:20 AM
#13
Senior Member
Lmao, Not at you but with you. I was staging at MIR and got frustrated that it was my 60a fuse in my x4/10 (Junction Box) and replaced it with a spare 200a since the Front Right SAM had blown before. Replaced the starter relay and cranked. Smoke everywhere, fried that damn wire. Lol atleast it's home now but have a new fuse box on the way now :-)
11-17-2017, 07:38 PM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Sold the car a while back, issue was caused by faulty starter relay and caused cascading failures (took out right from fusebox/SAM) due to not being able to identify the cause sooner. I had tested all relays for continuity closed and open with a 12v source, the problem was only present when passing high currents through the relay/fusebox.
Ran and drove perfectly after replacing the parts. Onto a W203 now...
Ran and drove perfectly after replacing the parts. Onto a W203 now...
Last edited by Fantomas; 11-17-2017 at 07:40 PM.
11-17-2017, 07:39 PM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thankfully they aren't due to lack of air suspension and other high electricity demand components found on S class that aren't present in the C class.
