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I'm picking up my new c220 this weekend and wanted to ask a quick question about installing my dashcam.
I previously wired it into my cigarette socket fuse in the glove compartment fuse box on my e90 bmw. This works great as the camera is only powered when the ignition is on.
I wondered if there is a similar switched ignition fuse in either the drivers side dashboard fusebox or the passenger footwell fusebox in the c220? I don't particularly want to run to the boot fuse box where the 12v outlets are fused.
There are a few spots & options in the drivers side fuse box. You can add a fuse to one of the switched fuse spots, or get a SAM fuse holder and add your own fuse and wiring to the box.
I'll take a look tonight to see which slot the switched power portions are.
I looked at the same thing, and for me, I'd rather route to the fuse box than take apart the glove box. The wires are surprisingly easy to route through the headliner and down the side into the fuse box.
When I needed to take it apart, it took me roughly 3 minutes.
Oh, maybe I did use that fuse on my first pass. Originally I used an "add a fuse" to the "existing" fuse in the photo for my radar detector. Not sure which one is the glove box light fuse.
Then I ordered a new SAM fuse connector (from the UK, local dealer couldn't locate the part, even though they told me it was $4 the first time I talked to them) and put it in (marked "Added" in photo). I wired my radar detector and the camera to that location.
Glad to help, I wish more vehicles came with an easy-to-add radar/camera option! Just give me a spot to plug into easily and I'm good. The Merc was much easier than my 335 or Z before that!
for those of you that tapped the Glove Box light, using an add a fuse, what did you use for a ground? Where was the bolt located?
Looking to wire a radar detector using this method, and not clear on what to use for the ground.
Thanks!
Oh, maybe I did use that fuse on my first pass. Originally I used an "add a fuse" to the "existing" fuse in the photo for my radar detector. Not sure which one is the glove box light fuse.
Then I ordered a new SAM fuse connector (from the UK, local dealer couldn't locate the part, even though they told me it was $4 the first time I talked to them) and put it in (marked "Added" in photo). I wired my radar detector and the camera to that location.
Both are switched power.
Hey Chef, did you have to run anything to that SAM fuse to provide power or was it already powered? The diagram shows that as 217, which is “Emergency Vehicle / Special Purpose Vehicle”. Is it switched? Has it been working?
Hey Chef, did you have to run anything to that SAM fuse to provide power or was it already powered? The diagram shows that as 217, which is “Emergency Vehicle / Special Purpose Vehicle”. Is it switched? Has it been working?
The main rail it plugs into will (should) already have power. Pretty easy to do. It look longer to permanently mount the detector to the rain-sensor/rear-view mirror cover thing.
Oh, maybe I did use that fuse on my first pass. Originally I used an "add a fuse" to the "existing" fuse in the photo for my radar detector. Not sure which one is the glove box light fuse.
Then I ordered a new SAM fuse connector (from the UK, local dealer couldn't locate the part, even though they told me it was $4 the first time I talked to them) and put it in (marked "Added" in photo). I wired my radar detector and the camera to that location.
Both are switched power.
Originally Posted by Chef
The main rail it plugs into will (should) already have power. Pretty easy to do. It look longer to permanently mount the detector to the rain-sensor/rear-view mirror cover thing.
Hmm, I didn’t see anything that looked like a power cable going to it but I’m not very knowledgeable on this. Maybe you wouldn’t be able to see it. Is that something that would already have voltage I could check?
Hmm, I didn’t see anything that looked like a power cable going to it but I’m not very knowledgeable on this. Maybe you wouldn’t be able to see it. Is that something that would already have voltage I could check?
Hard to see the power cable going to the entire fuse block, but you should get 12v switched power from that area. IIRC, you can barely see any metal for the fuse blade to connect with due to the plastic shroud.
The power wire from the SAM runs to your device, and the other side of the fuse will click into the main fuse bus, providing power to the device (after you wire the ground).
*Disclaimer: I am not an electrician, this is all at your own risk
Hard to see the power cable going to the entire fuse block, but you should get 12v switched power from that area. IIRC, you can barely see any metal for the fuse blade to connect with due to the plastic shroud.
The power wire from the SAM runs to your device, and the other side of the fuse will click into the main fuse bus, providing power to the device (after you wire the ground).
*Disclaimer: I am not an electrician, this is all at your own risk
Awesome thanks for the info. Going to visit my dealer and pick up a SAM module this week. Since you say the SAM module connects directly to the device, I don’t need a fuse tap. Looks like you’re running a 2amp fuse in that slot. Since its not powering anything else I don’t see why not.
Hard to see the power cable going to the entire fuse block, but you should get 12v switched power from that area. IIRC, you can barely see any metal for the fuse blade to connect with due to the plastic shroud.
The power wire from the SAM runs to your device, and the other side of the fuse will click into the main fuse bus, providing power to the device (after you wire the ground).
*Disclaimer: I am not an electrician, this is all at your own risk
Talked with a foreman at the dealership. Said adding the module is no problem. Didn’t think the Mercedes ones came with a pigtail already on it but said if I find an aftermarket one that fits it would work too.
So, got the module this week. Problem is, it only fits in slot 216. The little notch is on the on the top of the module for 216, but the fuse block for 217 has the notch towards the bottom. So that’s one problem.
The other issue is the pigtail off of the module. The glovebox one has a little spade type connector that fits perfectly inside. Any thoughts on where to find that? I’m going to the parts counter tomorrow but not confident they’ll be able to find it.
So, got the module this week. Problem is, it only fits in slot 216. The little notch is on the on the top of the module for 216, but the fuse block for 217 has the notch towards the bottom. So that’s one problem.
The other issue is the pigtail off of the module. The glovebox one has a little spade type connector that fits perfectly inside. Any thoughts on where to find that? I’m going to the parts counter tomorrow but not confident they’ll be able to find it.
My order came as a set, SAM connector and wiring. And I've used multiple connectors in the fuse box already. One for radar detector, and another for cameras.
My order came as a set, SAM connector and wiring. And I've used multiple connectors in the fuse box already. One for radar detector, and another for cameras.
I ordered the black ones. IIRC, the color of the connector helps to determine the type of power (switched or constant).
My assumption here is that the connector will only fit with the color that it goes with (black for switched, brown for constant). Which is kinda cool and makes fur easy identification.
From the photo above, you can see I used the black one (and added another black one later).
09-01-2016, 04:18 PM
