JazziM

Has anyone experienced their fuel gauge lights blinking? They blink continuously, then stop without warning.

Thanks for any suggestions.

JazziM

1998 SL500 (Prissy Palomino)
2001 Jaguar XKR Silverstone

blueSL

Do you mean the instrument back light or the fuel gauge warning lights? If the first, there may be a loose connection in the instrument panel, or a loose bulb, easy to fix once you get the instrument panel out but that is difficult to do without the right tool to avoid damaging the surround.

If it's the low level light, check the fuel sender connections which are under the rear seat. It may be you would need a new fuel sender, not a job to do at home.

JazziM

Thanks for the info. Both lights blink, Iwas hoping it was something simple I could repair myself.

Ahmed

Sorry for bringing back an old thread,

Your thoughts? I have checked and replaced all the vacuum lines and fuel cap. What else?

blueSL

The regular flashing discounts a loose connection and I think it may be linked to the check engine light. I think it’s time to take the car to an MB specialist who can read out the diagnostics and has a manual explaining what the flashing means. It might, for example, mean the fuel pump pressure is low. These are old cars now and without modern displays, different light patterns could have been used to aid diagnosis.

bobterry99

The flashing indicates a leak in the EVAP system, though it's possible there is no leak at all, and a sensor is malfunctioning. Reading the OBD-II code associated with the Check Engine light may provide further detail.

Ahmed

Plugged it in and checked the faults.
Bad MASS and EGR valve.

Replaced both and so far so good.

Ahmed

It's back.

I am pissed off! Paid for a new MASS and EGV and obviously, that wasn't the problem

It better not be the gas cap, I'm gonna kick myself and my mechanic!!!

bobterry99

If your mechanic thought the air flow sensor or the EGR valve could cause an EVAP code, then I would look for another mechanic.

Ahmed

Actually, I'm pissed off cause he's an Indy mechanic and he's doing exactly what dumb f**k dealerships do!
Plug in the Star diagnostics, and replace exactly what that stupid machine tells yo to, reset the codes, take it for a 3 min test drive and deliver to customer!

I'm going back and finding out what's going on cause yesterday he sent me a message saying they are looking for a "Fuel Pressure Sensor"

bobterry99

Apparently he is not doing that.

Here is the diagnostic manual for your engine: http://manual.startekinfo.com/manual/JSP/e4/9_4/m11.jsp. There are several codes associated with the EVAP system, and none of them encompass a diagnostic outcome where replacing the air mass sensor or an EGR component is indicated.

Ahmed

Thank you so much sir, much appreciated.
I'm gonna tackle this issue myself.

On a side note, I previously purchased an Actron CP9690 Elite AutoScanner Kit Enhanced OBD I and OBD II Scan Tool for all 1996 and newer and select 1984-95 vehicles.
I needed this for my 1993 Dodge viper RT/10.

Can I use this device on my 99 R129?

OPCorvette

Hey guys, I am having the same problem, 98 as well, and I am thinking since I just had the roof cylinders redone and some work on the engine bay, I will check all the valves and hoses are properly connected .. in case something came loose
However I have a questions; if I can't resolve the issue, can I still drive the car ? my mechanic is going away and won't be back for 2 weeks ..
Drivable ?

Floobydust

Indicative of an EVAP leak. Possible causes:

Gas cap.
Cracked/disconnected vapor line(s).
Bad (leaky) purge valve.
Bad canister vent valve.

Best way to diagnose after a visual inspection is with a smoke machine and a two way test scanner. Without this, evap leaks can be tough to find and may result in a lot of trial and error.

OPCorvette

Yes I understand
My questions is; can the car be driven ? and how safe is it to drive it ?
If it can wait until my mechanic comes back I will wait if not I will have it taken care of asap

Ahmed

Yes, it can be driven no problems. Eventually, you may also get a check engine light coming on but that won't affect driveability.

FATHERTIME

New gas cap fixed this problem on my 99 SL600,

mahunt

Large vacuum leak. Large enough to trip the fuel trim function to try to compensate for the extra air.

Time to locate the vacuum line routing diagram under the hood and trace ALL the lines. Also check the vacuum fittings for the power brakes. Check each line and verify that they hold vacuum by blocking off one end and apply vacuum to the other. Inspect the throttle body bolts and gasket. The intake manifold hold down bolts, attempt to tighten each one.

When you get to rubber hose elbows and other connectors, flex them and look for cracks. I've now replaced all of my rubber flex ends. If all else fails, use the smoke test method.

A large leak should be easy to find. You should be able to hear it.

OPCorvette

Thank you, had to take the car to Mercedes $$ quite the trip, twice, so far replaced a bunch of lines... I am hoping it is the end of it ..I should have the car in a few days