BoostedAero

So the super charger ring side of my crank pulley came off finally and it's time to slap on the 185 CP, injectors and get it tuned...

I need some help after a failed purchase of a $100 tool that resulted in a return, I am asking forum members for some help.

Is anyone willing to let me Paypal them a rental fee and shipping to let me borrow the crank lock tool and a flywheel lock tool so I can do the job right?

Let me know if anyone is willing to help at all,
Will

Elhonaz

if you have a dealer near ask if they will borrow? i had luck with this

blackbenzz

I got you covered on borrowing the crank pulley tool. Just please send it back lol

BoostedAero

Thanks Ahmad 🤘🏻

All parts are here except that crank holding tool. Gonna be a quick borrow for sure and then expedient return!
-Will

latemodel21

I have the (miller) flywheel holding tool if you want to use it.

Chris

BoostedAero

Thanks for the offer Chris!

I actually kicked out the loot for a fly wheel lock but was having a real hard time finding the right tool for the crank pulley side. I just want to do it right, 1 time and not have that sucker fly off

220ft/lbs + 90 stretch sounds like a hella lot of holding is needed... I don't know who has successfully done it with just an extended flywheel/Tq Converter bolt...

Those guys must have extreme faith in the grade of The bolt they chose...

Even Weistec's install calls for that method

http://weistec.com/media/productfile..._install_2.pdf

Thanks Guru's for all the forum love

BoostedAero

I know the president of the local South Charlotte dealer here personally and could not get it done by asking kindly... Kinda sucks honestly

It was worth a try though

latemodel21

I was under the impression that the spec is 147 ft/lbs and then 90degrees ...

I don't think you need both (crank and flywheel lock) either is more than enough. The Crank tool is the better choice when you can use it, but many aftermarket pulleys will not have provisions for using the crank tool.

you may want to consider changing the front (crank) seal while doing this job (it is less than $10 and it well NEVER be easier) . Replace it FOR SURE if you are installing a used pulley (that will have a wear groove already from the seal in the engine it came from).

hope that helps,
Chris

BoostedAero

[QUOTE=latemodel21;7068554impression that the spec is 147 ft/lbs and then 90degrees ...

I don't think you need both (crank and flywheel lock)

consider changing the front (crank) seal while doing this job...Replace it FOR SURE if you are installing a used pulley...

hope that helps,
Chris[/QUOTE]

Agreed on the FCS replacement, def worth doing while I am down there... didnt know there was a rub/rip concern :-/

Chris, you sound like you are speaking from a painful experience, I am throwing on a used 185 ASP pulley so I appreciate the words of advice

I am going to dig in WIS tonight to see if I can find the specs unless someone wants to beat me to it

I thought 145/147 (heard both) + 90 was for NA motors and 220 was for AMG-SC motors...? Bueller....Bueller.....? Anyone.....?

I am just opting to have both on hand as JIC overkill support bc many prayers are said during the 90 degree stretch part from past builds

Food for thought:
If 147ft lbs + 90 is used and has been incorrect "common knowledge" that may explain why many people have had their crank pulleys fall off (excluding key ways being sheared) :-(

latemodel21

The correct torque has more to do with the bolt than the application (correct bolt stretch, etc)...
having said that, the mercedes spec for the E55 balancer bolt (in WIS) is 200Nm which is 147 foot pounds (and then 90 degrees).

you are using a new bolt, correct?


I did once install a NEW balancer and the (old) seal leaked ... so I always use a new seal. I would recommend everyone always install a new seal with a used balancer this is just common sense. A useful trick (if your used balancer has a noticeable groove) is to install the new seal just short of flush (so the lip hits a fresh spot on the used balancer)

I really think that ALL vendors should supply a new seal with any crank pulley ... it is silly not to replace it when it is so easy to get at.

hope that helps,
Chris

BoostedAero

Thanks for confirming Tq specs that seems more than doable and not over stressing the bolt

Cheap bolt, cheap seal... yes agreed common sense. Cut corners on anything usually results a at best wash rinse repeat job.

Seems with this install I can roast my motor so its goin on the right way. I have a new OEM Mercedes bolt, ordered a new seal and will do anything people tell me to do or how to do it... I dont want to have to beg people to borrow a tool again to redo this job lol

I got both locks bc I would be the guy that some how some way jacked up my flywheel... I would rather over engineer than under engineer

Rocman8

cmpcpro

Hey guys I have an S55 2006 with a wobbly crank pulley and bouncing tensioner.. I want to replace them with stock.. I want to do it right and do the seal, what is involved with installing it? I'm almost considering letting the dealer do the job because of all the bad crank install problems and peace of mind for the warranty. I get the parts wholesale so that's a bit of a break. Thanks guys.

BoostedAero

Remove engine belly pan, remove fan shroud, remove belts, lock crank pulley with tool, remove crank bolt, remove crank pulley (rubber mallet), replace idler pully, acc belt tensioner (why not, you are there) replace front crank seal, install new crank pulley, torque to spec with a NEW OEM bolt. 147ft lbs + 90*

Use redloctite JIC on the bolt prior to install

Reverse previous steps

cmpcpro

Thanks!! Is it really hard to get that much torque on the bolt? Will I need some huge pipe on my torque wrench lol? Also I hate to spend this much on a one time used tool but is this the correct tool? I wonder if I could rent it somewhere..? Thanks again for your help!!

http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...es&SVSVSI=W211

BoostedAero

My Tq wrench is about 3ft I think, but I am 6'3" and 210lbs and it was not that hard. The hard part in my opinion is having a strong helper on a pipe extending the handle on the crank lock tool. Or making sure said pipe is locked in the exact right position to not destroy stuff when you tighten it to spec.

That looks like the same tool but I am unsure, call Pelican Parts. They are pretty knowledgeable about cross compatibility and can tell you if it works or not.

cmpcpro

Thanks but I decided to just spend the $500 and let the dealer do it.. it's a lot of money but you have to remember that money is paying for a 2 year warranty so if anything happens it's covered.. For me that's peace of mind.. I dropped it off this morning and it should be done around 4pm.. I also had them replace the crank seal, the bolt of course and the blower tensioner as it was constantly bouncing up and down.

cmpcpro

Well the dealer called and said the car was done today.. I got there and the new pulley wobbled far worse than the old. I was pissed. Long story short I told them I think they broke the key taking the old pulley off so now they ordered another new pulley and bolt and now a new key. So looks like they are going to have to replace the key most likely.. this is exactly why I didn't want to do it.. I would bet money they messed it up pulling it because before only the outer part wobbled now it all does.. angering but at least it will be done correctly with a new key when done and now I'm stuck driving a 2017 c300 until Tues-Weds...

StarvingArtist

I wonder if it's possible to bend the pulley with the holding tool ?

BoostedAero

I would say that would be darn hard to do...

I lubed my crank snout up with some wd40 along the shaft and just a touch of vaseline on the edge of snout. I heated my CP up to 225*F in the oven (gal was out of the house ) then used my welding leather gloves to get it and accurately slid it onto the crankshaft snout. The bolt pulls it onto the shaft and down the key further.

I have a feeling the keyway was smashed upon install and the crank pulley is sitting on the keyway at an angle causing the wobble. That would be the only way it could wobble if new.

I hope they get you and your pulley straightened out soon

MACEDON

I'm curious, has anyone taken their car to an indy for this? How much do they charge?

BoostedAero

I was quoted $282 in labor alone from a Mercedes indy who specializes in the AMG line in Charlotte NC (Indian Trail NC)

cmpcpro

Thanks guys, it's not a big enough wobble to worry about huge damage (I hope) but I'm betting the key not the keyway is what probably got damaged.. the crank is forged so that is pretty strong.. a few people have told me the key is a horrible job to do and that it requires the timing chain/cover and more to come off yet another guy who has done it said the key is very easy to replace so I'm confused on that one but whatever they have to do they will have to do..

cmpcpro

Well i just left the dealer.. the crank and key look brand new. They are putting on a second new pulley and bolt just in case the pulkey was defected.. maybe I'm just being too picky? It's super minor but I'm expecting it to be as straight as an arrow, is that asking too much? Maybe it's me that's the problem..

cmpcpro

Well second new pulley and bolt are on and it still wobbles at idle.. they still have the car but only because I wouldn't accept it... I'm lost!