Filling Up Convertible Top Hydraulic Fluid
#1
Filling Up Convertible Top Hydraulic Fluid
This is for a 2005 CLK320 and a 2008 CLK350. Both cabriolets, of course.
The 2005 fluid was low, and so I took a little drive to the stealership. They charged me $200 just to top up fluid that costs $11 a bottle for one genuine MB oem bottle, and the fill up probably only uses half the bottle. They proceeded to tell me that there is a microscopic leak somewhere, and that explains how it went low after six months. So, I asked them how much it costs to remedy that. They told me $2,300. I scoffed at them and said just top it up and let me go. Even getting away from the stealership with my wallet intact took some doing. I feel they were about to call the cops for car neglect just because I refused to spend that $2,300 they wanted me to spend.
So, after some research I found that the stealership's story that it is a PITA to top up the fluid happens to be generally true. I know where the pump is, and I hear that accessing the pump reservoir is a laborious headache. Is that true?
I mean. How difficult can it be to unscrew a hex bolt and top up fluid with a syringe or whatever until the Max marking? I haven't even tried removing the trunk panel yet. Can it be that difficult?
If I can top this up myself every six months, why would I want to spend thousands of dollars at the stealership?
Any advice?
The 2005 fluid was low, and so I took a little drive to the stealership. They charged me $200 just to top up fluid that costs $11 a bottle for one genuine MB oem bottle, and the fill up probably only uses half the bottle. They proceeded to tell me that there is a microscopic leak somewhere, and that explains how it went low after six months. So, I asked them how much it costs to remedy that. They told me $2,300. I scoffed at them and said just top it up and let me go. Even getting away from the stealership with my wallet intact took some doing. I feel they were about to call the cops for car neglect just because I refused to spend that $2,300 they wanted me to spend.
So, after some research I found that the stealership's story that it is a PITA to top up the fluid happens to be generally true. I know where the pump is, and I hear that accessing the pump reservoir is a laborious headache. Is that true?
I mean. How difficult can it be to unscrew a hex bolt and top up fluid with a syringe or whatever until the Max marking? I haven't even tried removing the trunk panel yet. Can it be that difficult?
If I can top this up myself every six months, why would I want to spend thousands of dollars at the stealership?
Any advice?
#2
MBworld Guru
It is very easy to refill the hydraulic reservoir. You will probably want to acquire a large hypodermic or turkey baster. If you are losing fluid, you do have a leak, and over time, it will probably get worse. When that happens, it can be very expensive to have the system serviced. If you want to DIY, find Klaus at Top Hydraulics for buying the cylinders.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
$200 to top up fluid makes me realize I have made some very wrong choices regarding my vocation. Seriously, that's nearly criminal. Open your trunk. See that rectangular shaped door with rounded corners in the fuzzy black liner on the driver's side. Pull that off. Then you see the reservoir with a bolt in the side. Remove bolt and fill. Pay yourself $200. I seriously could not sleep at night if I charged that.
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
But to answer your question, don't ever go back to the dealership, but to not write them into your will you need to be wiling to learn a little. My reservoir has never been opened I am sure, and it is still full. So you have a leak. Filling it every few months is not a very good solution because you have oil leaking somewhere in your car. So find it, then fix it. That oil is very clear and light and thus hard to see. My suggestion is to buy a roll of the brown paper towels they use in gas stations bathrooms and stuff it around the pump and under every lift. That will show a leak easily.
#5
MBworld Guru
If you leak a few ounces every ten years, then you may never find it, but if it starts getting worse, and you can't find the leak, it's likely the main lift cylinders. When they leak, the fluid runs into the bottom of the body under them. You have to remove the back set to see the leak. I have heard of some bad leaks where hydraulic fluid would eventually show up on the ground, under the rear wheels.
#6
Thank you very much!
As you can see, I have "sucker" stamped on my forehead. I went back to pick up my car, and all I wanted to do was to leave, so I guess I paid $200 to leave the facility without getting handcuffed.
I don't even know if there is really a leak. This is my first time experiencing it, and so I shall find out for myself. The cars are very nice but are not worth that much. I much rather get rid of them or drive them to the ground than spend thousands fixing a convertible top.
As you can see, I have "sucker" stamped on my forehead. I went back to pick up my car, and all I wanted to do was to leave, so I guess I paid $200 to leave the facility without getting handcuffed.
I don't even know if there is really a leak. This is my first time experiencing it, and so I shall find out for myself. The cars are very nice but are not worth that much. I much rather get rid of them or drive them to the ground than spend thousands fixing a convertible top.
Last edited by iyeoh; 04-14-2017 at 10:46 AM.
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#8
Junior Member
As others mentioned, top fluid is clear so hard to detect leak. Perhaps adding small amount of colored fluid to the top fluid can help you spot the leak? I had similar issue with power steering leak in a Jeep - factory fill is clear so I refilled with Mopar fluid & added about 1 ounce of Lucas Power Steering fluid, which is purple. Lucas stuff is advertised to help stop leaks, but I used Lucas to assist in spotting the leak. Anyhow, 3 months later & the PS reservoir is still at full and no leaks. Again this is for power steering but perhaps adding colored fluid to the top fluid can help you spot the leak?
#9
Gentlemen,
As a follow up, I ordered two bottles of approved 343 spec fluid for just $22 on Amazon and I did the filling up/topping up this past weekend for my two cars. It was ridiculously easy. I only had a plastic 10 ml syringe with me and it took me no more than five minutes after I figured out that a 13mm hex wrench was the size needed to remove the nut.
I placed paper towels everywhere but have yet to determine the source of the leak, and it doesn't make it easy that the fluid is clear. Visually, there hasn't been a reduction in fluid level in either car yet. Probably too soon to tell.
Thank you so much!
As a follow up, I ordered two bottles of approved 343 spec fluid for just $22 on Amazon and I did the filling up/topping up this past weekend for my two cars. It was ridiculously easy. I only had a plastic 10 ml syringe with me and it took me no more than five minutes after I figured out that a 13mm hex wrench was the size needed to remove the nut.
I placed paper towels everywhere but have yet to determine the source of the leak, and it doesn't make it easy that the fluid is clear. Visually, there hasn't been a reduction in fluid level in either car yet. Probably too soon to tell.
Thank you so much!
#11
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Join Date: Apr 2015
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2005 CLK500
Hello, happy holidays. I am curious to know if the fluid level has dropped since your last post. I am dealing with a similar situation where i had add fluid since it was low. I fear that i may have the leak stemming from the main cylinder. Thanks
#12
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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Mercedes 2001 ML320
If you leak a few ounces every ten years, then you may never find it, but if it starts getting worse, and you can't find the leak, it's likely the main lift cylinders. When they leak, the fluid runs into the bottom of the body under them. You have to remove the back set to see the leak. I have heard of some bad leaks where hydraulic fluid would eventually show up on the ground, under the rear wheels.