Thomas Cse

Hi everybody!

So I bought a W221 a little more than a month ago! And I received my gray card today (FINALLY !!!) So here is a small walk with .. I will wash the beautiful ... then I decide to park underground parking ... I go down the slope, and The message "distronic + and speedtronic do not work" .. I said to myself it is perhaps because I am in underground who knows ... 3h later I take again the beast .. always the same message i tried to activate the distronic by rolling or to test the front / rear sensors .. neither of them are working ..... I notice in the ODB that the blind alarms are desactivated I reactivate them and the Light up but are constantly red in the wing mirroir...... Nightivision works perfectly well ... I go home without these options I reactivate the alarms dead corners .. I open the hoods I look at the "dial" From distronic nothing ..

Once at home I try to look ... to reset from the NGT ... nothing ... I puhed the parking brake I disable it, put the contact and now it is the nightvision that no longer works anymore ..... Do you have any idea ..?

First day driving and so many issues :S

Thank's..

alx

Load test battery.

Thomas Cse

Hello


well.... today is even worse I thought I will try to see with rest ... well now it is the ESP that no longer works ... I also see the P Who went into the red and tire pressure too .. I decided to check secret menu UB: 12.2V like 10 seconds later 11.9V ... so i tried to drive a little bit to see if it will go up after a short time.. during my drive all electronic goes OFF for 0.25sec, when it goes ON again all indicators light were ON like Christmas tree... (i just drive 200 meters because was really afraid of all that bugs..) and i check the secret menu, UB: 12.3V ..

alx

Do not drive unless you want your instrument cluster and your rain sensor to burn out. You have an undervoltage situation. You either have a bad battery or a bad alternator or a bad voltage regulator. At idle you should be showing 14.x volts on the engineering menu.

Thomas Cse

Ok well, I couldnt drive the car for like 33 days because i had not the official papers to drive it.. so it can provide from this time without driving + i used battery for testing features while i couldnt used the car ??

Dont you think it's more like a bad battery than alternator ? ? cause when i just tried to drive my car this morning (only 200 meters not more..) after this try, i goes to the engineering menu it goes up from 11.9 to 12.3, So if i had an issue with my alternator it shld never goes up right ?

Well.. how can i know if it has burned... ? :S

What do you suggest me to do / what can i check to verifie if it's bad voltage regulator, alternator or battery ?

Thomas Cse

Ok well i tested with a multimeter my battery says 12.6V motor OFF. Motor on it goes at 14.42V... after 10min motor off, 12.80.... it looks like correct no ?

apl175

Sometimes I think guidance should be

IF you buy a W221 (or other similar Mercedes), thinking you've gotten a "great deal"....
THEN you should also budget $500 or so to acquire a STAR/Xentry/DAS so that you can accurately diagnose and troubleshoot inevitable issues that you will find with your purchase.

EasyPhil

You can't really DIY unless you have a Star/Xentry/DAS, it's a required tool to work on these cars just like a set of metric wrenches and torx/etorx sockets.

alx

Correct. My next suggestion is to read the star with star/ das and post results here in still questions

steveb9771

If your vehicle is pre-facelift, it has two batteries- One under the hood and one in the trunk concealed behind the rear seat. The trunk battery provides power to the accessories including those your are having trouble with. The battery under the hood is used to start the engine.

alx

i assumed he is talking about the accessory battery (if pre-facelift). if he is measuring the crank battery- he is measuring the wrong one yes.

Thomas Cse

both tested... both ok... I will just go to mercedes monday...

EasyPhil

Your car may have a 3rd battery accessible from the driver side under the dash.

DaveW68

The load testing likely doesn't matter. When my accessory battery was going bad and shutting down car systems, it load tested just fine. But I replaced the battery anyway and everything immediately went back to normal.

Jakeu

this has nothing to do with a battery or experience you had

Polar Bear

Our vehicles OEM battery is an AGM battery, and they are known for their longevity as well as their ability to be discharged for a much longer amount of time compared to a lead-acid battery and revived. I would recommend using an AGM-aware battery charger and charging the consumer battery over a one or two night period. This will restore the battery to it's maximum capacity if it has not developed a defect. Keep in mind the accessories on the W221 is a very huge drain compared to most vehicles, and the alternators job is not to charge a battery, but to maintain a charge in a charged battery. If you put it to the task of charging a drained battery, you will have unexpected results and shorten the life significantly of the alternator.

After it has been chartered with the proper AGM-aware charger, you should see 12.3-12.7 volts when the charger is disconnected. Enter the maintenance menu on in the cluster and see if monitor the voltage. Also, it is advised if possible to completely disconnect and remove the battery from the vehicle during the charging process to ensure there is no load on it while you are trying to revive it. This will also help reset the computer modules that have glitches due to under voltage and perhaps allow these modules to reboot into an operation mode.