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Nice & cool weather, low humidity and a little BMS JB1 tweaking Spinning all 4 on most of my runs. This is on the stock Downpipe and Intake!
Best 60' - 1.76
Best E.T. - 12.16
Best MPH - 115.84mph
Best 0-60 - 3.76 seconds, on the street, using android GPS app.
Best 12.1 Runs
All runs
On the way home, I did a street launch. It's not that clear, but keep an eye on the speedometer not the tach. Revving it to 2k rpm for a second before moving.
This is the fastest time I've seen with stock hardware, that piggyback is pretty impressive.
What app were you using for 0-60? I have a couple on my phone but I can't break 5 seconds 0-60 my stock coupe. Not sure it it's the car, me or the app lol.
I think OP should be more clear so people aren't mislead thinking a stock JB1 runs these times. He's doing something with a custom file - this is not happening with the off the shelf product and map. You don't make 7MPH on 50WHP.
This is the fastest time I've seen with stock hardware, that piggyback is pretty impressive.
What app were you using for 0-60? I have a couple on my phone but I can't break 5 seconds 0-60 my stock coupe. Not sure it it's the car, me or the app lol.
The app I used is "Acceleration Timer"
These runs were with off the shelf JB1 unit using Map6 that comes with it standard. I was finally able figure out how/what to tweak after some reading and a few emails with Terry@BMS. Unlike other platforms (BMW,VW), boost in Map 6 is the only thing that's activated and can be tweaked in our units. I only tweaked it in a couple of spots, where I felt (via butt dyno/slips) that it could use it, this was based on BMS's standard boost settings that Terry provided me.
Setting that Terry from BMS provided, which I based my tweaking on.
>> 'RPM based target
>> psi_curve[0] = 3.0 '1500
>> psi_curve[1] = 4.0 '2000
>> psi_curve[2] = 5.0 '2500
>> psi_curve[3] = 5.0 '3000
>> psi_curve[4] = 5.0 '3500
>> psi_curve[5] = 5.0 '4000
>> psi_curve[6] = 4.5 '4500
>> psi_curve[7] = 3.5 '5000
>> psi_curve[8] = 3.0 '5500
>> psi_curve[9] = 2.5 '6000
>> psi_curve[10] = 2.0 '6500
>> psi_curve[11] = 2.0 '7000
MAP 6 Boost (example below) is what I personally tweaked, this is a standard Map that comes with the unit that anyone who buys JB1 and cable can use/tweak.
These runs were with off the shelf JB1 unit using Map6 that comes with it standard. I was finally able figure out how/what to tweak after some reading and a few emails with Terry@BMS. Unlike other platforms (BMW,VW), boost in Map 6 is the only thing that's activated and can be tweaked in our units. I only tweaked it in a couple of spots, where I felt (via butt dyno/slips) that it could use it, this was based on BMS's standard boost settings that Terry provided me.
Setting that Terry from BMS provided, which I based my tweaking on.
>> 'RPM based target
>> psi_curve[0] = 3.0 '1500
>> psi_curve[1] = 4.0 '2000
>> psi_curve[2] = 5.0 '2500
>> psi_curve[3] = 5.0 '3000
>> psi_curve[4] = 5.0 '3500
>> psi_curve[5] = 5.0 '4000
>> psi_curve[6] = 4.5 '4500
>> psi_curve[7] = 3.5 '5000
>> psi_curve[8] = 3.0 '5500
>> psi_curve[9] = 2.5 '6000
>> psi_curve[10] = 2.0 '6500
>> psi_curve[11] = 2.0 '7000
MAP 6 Boost (example below) is what I personally tweaked, this is a standard Map that comes with the unit that anyone who buys JB1 and cable can use/tweak.
Hey, thanks for sharing. There is definitely more than average risk involved in using custom maps and settings. You have more guts than most people. lol
Hey, thanks for sharing. There is definitely more than average risk involved in using custom maps and settings. You have more guts than most people. lol
I have to argue your point about the risk involved. A piggyback can only fool the car into going to maximum SAFE parameters. It will make the car run max fuel/air/boost that the factory built in. This means all of the built in nannys and safety nets are still there. You shouldn't be able to kill your engine unless the factory allows for it.
Basically, the piggyback fools the car into running at 11 under all condition.
I have to argue your point about the risk involved. A piggyback can only fool the car into going to maximum SAFE parameters. It will make the car run max fuel/air/boost that the factory built in. This means all of the built in nannys and safety nets are still there. You shouldn't be able to kill your engine unless the factory allows for it.
Basically, the piggyback fools the car into running at 11 under all condition.
Correct, all the nanny's are still there, and according to BMS, the jb1 has a built-in safety limiter too. On a side note, from E.T.'s and trap speeds, the car is making 437-475hp. That's an average of 456hp, which is 80+hp over stock!
THanks for sharing, very impressive and motivating!
Question, if I buy the JB1 and cable, is there any software I need to downwnloard to my laptop to make these changes or will it automatically open the file when connected?
Correct, all the nanny's are still there, and according to BMS, the jb1 has a built-in safety limiter too. On a side note, from E.T.'s and trap speeds, the car is making 437-475hp. That's an average of 456hp, which is 80+hp over stock!
Nice work 18bora.I like that you & threefirs have many runs to back up your claims.You both must be very good drivers to get such consistent runs.I am still wondering how you get such low 60' times.Does the piggy back have anything to do with those 60' times,or did you improve your start method?
How was the temperature like in the drag strip this time?
Temps started in the low 70's high 60's and at the end of the night high 50's
Originally Posted by JGreen76
Question, if I buy the JB1 and cable, is there any software I need to downwnloard to my laptop to make these changes or will it automatically open the file when connected?
I am still wondering how you get such low 60' times.Does the piggy back have anything to do with those 60' times,or did you improve your start method?
It's a combination of things and I'm sure the piggyback has something to do with it, if you look at their tuning curves around 2k rpm, it's requesting 4psi over stock. It's also important not to hold revs for too long, you have to forget about getting good R/T, just get up to 2k and go quick.
I compiled a few launch/PE sound clips today. It's hard to hear the little crackles over the wind, but this is the best I can do. I tried both manual and Auto, I even hit the rev limiter in M @ 2:48
God your launch is on point! First one I've seen hit a 1.7x 60' time.
I don't know why but I just can't get my tires to spin. What rpm does the 43 let you brake-launch at? My 450 struggles to even get up to 2krpm which is what I think my problem is. It's so close but just needs like 200-300 more RPMs. Also, seems that you prefer to hit it up on the upswing rather than holding the RPM for a moment. That seem work better for you?
While BMS limits user adjustments to boost, you can data log, as I did below. Without Timing and AFR, you can't really do much with it other than look at boost. With boost logs (ECU psi, Target, Boost), you can slowly increase/decrease boost curves using Map6 and see if the car likes it (boost vs. target), if it doesn't, you back off. BMS stated that they might do more development "if sales pick up", but I'm not counting on it.
seems that you prefer to hit it up on the upswing rather than holding the RPM for a moment. That seem work better for you?
That's what I've been saying, just get the rpm up and go, don't hold it. If you hold it for too long, the trans heats up and the ECU pulls back timing (I'm assuming!)
Exactly. But what's the max RPM are you able to launch at?
I might be able to go a little over 2k, but the car either drags through the starting line, or pulls back power. Best is to let go of the brakes and floor it on the "upswing" as soon as it hits 2k. As I said before, if you look at the boost curves, BMS is requesting 3psi (over stock) @ 1500rpm and 4 psi @ 2k rpm. This doesn't mean you're getting that psi free-riving/without a load, but as soon as the engine loads, it quickly builds boost.
How was the car handling the added boost over stock? looks like the target did not drop based on the boost curve. I wonder how hard you can push these turbos.
I might be able to go a little over 2k, but the car either drags through the starting line, or pulls back power. Best is to let go of the brakes and floor it on the "upswing" as soon as it hits 2k. As I said before, if you look at the boost curves, BMS is requesting 3psi (over stock) @ 1500rpm and 4 psi @ 2k rpm. This doesn't mean you're getting that psi free-riving/without a load, but as soon as the engine loads, it quickly builds boost.
Yeah that makes sense now that I think about it. I've only done a hard launch 4-5 times but I always hold it for a split second hoping that it'll go just a little higher. I'm going to try the upswing technique first chance I get. Thanks for spit-balling with me
Originally Posted by desi4life10
Awesome info. Thanks for documenting.
How was the car handling the added boost over stock? looks like the target did not drop based on the boost curve. I wonder how hard you can push these turbos.
Now I'm not basing any of this on actual data as I haven't seen the specs/flowchart for these turbo's, but comparing it to other cars with similar specs, these turbo's should be able to handle at least 20psi on pump gas. This platform is just getting started. In a few years I can see these cars running 25psi on pump w/meth and putting down 550awhp. Gotta go through the motions to get to that point though. Like how well are these "Speedshift" trannys going to hold up to that range of power on the long term. What's the limit going to be of the stock fuel system? Where its the first weak point in it? And so on and so on.. One thing though is that I would venture a guess that our motors are pretty stout as they sit. I wouldn't be surprised if they'll handle 600-700hp without any issues.
18bora - You are my hero. Now here I go about to jump on one of these ECU Tuning sales and you just had to do this to me. I am going home and plugging up my laptop to the JB1 and doing some tweaking. I knew "you" would have eventually figured out how to make adjustments over time and that Terry would give in and give up some helpful info.
You just saved me probably $1000. These ECU tuners need to step their game up. If BMS actually does more development/research on this JB1 we will have probably one of the best tunes for this platform on the market.
For anyone who wants to play with map6, every car is different. It's better to understand what you're doing instead of me just giving you a psi "number". What you need to do first is log with maps 1-2 settings and look at ECU psi vs. Request vs. Actual.
For example:
In a certain gear @ certain rpm, you're requesting 2psi over stock. The ECU showing 10psi, Request 12, Actual ~12 (11.5-11.9 is ok)
Same gear and rpm, you request 3psi over stock. The ECU showing 10psi, Request 13, Actual ~13 then you're ok
However, at the same gear/rpm, if you request 4psi over stock. The ECU showing 7psi, Request 11, Actual ~11 << this means that you're requesting too much and the ECU probably detecting knock, thus lowering it from the normal 10psi to 7psi.
Basically, when you requested 2 and 3psi over stock, the ECU had no problem with it and gave you your request (10psi+2psi=12psi) & (10psi+3psi=13psi)<< we are good here . But, when you requested 4psi over stock, the ECU pulled back, giving you only 7psi (to add to) instead of 10. So, if you add your 4psi to the 7, you're only getting a total of 11psi. This means 4 is too much and I'd back off a little, maybe try 3.5psi.... FYI, when you log, it can be saved as Excel cvs file (example below) which can also be opened later and viewed as graph using JB4 software, similar to the pic I posted before.
10-21-2017, 12:59 AM
Spinning all 4 on most of my runs. This is on the stock Downpipe and Intake!
