swedepat

Ignore the measured power,
When wheels are spinning the 'torque' app shows very happy numbers.
I had slight wheelspin in this test, I seem to get best 0-60 as engine doesn´t bog down as hard, but it is very hard to balance the traction.
The 1/8mile time is way high becuase i was coasting to stop after 0-60 test.

Otherwise, i think i actually have the fastest N/A C55?

Rgds.

PJmak

What kind of mods do you have?

swedepat

All sorts of mods
No supercharger.

Ported heads(made myself, there are lurking BIG gaines here, they are really crap as std)
longtube headers(homebuilt)
Ported inletmanifold
78mm throttlebody(home modified)
Custom elbow between throttlebody and Airmassmeter
Underdrive pulleys(evosport)
Home made aircleanersystem with dual 3" CAI boxes(simota)
Custom 'air ducts' to the front that connects to hoses from CAI filters.(larger than std, and home made)
Custom exhaust(home made, 2.5" to single 3" to dual 2.5" again at rear diff and backwards, 100cell cats)
Custom Tune, revlimiter raised to 7200rpm
Custom airhose from front to flush away hot air underneeth inletmanifold.
Small heat insulationmods here and there on inletmanifold.
Returnline fuelsystem(keeping heat away from fuel)
Eurocharged software for gearbox
Bluetop solenoids
Bilstein shocks, helped traction actually
Vredestein semi slicks
Modified rear suspension for ability to adjust everything(helps traction)

Dynoed 366.86hp to the wheels a really hot day.
But i have done small mods since then, need to dyno again

SMatyac

Very impressive!
It looks like you have done everything yourself, It's great to see people working on these in their own garage and not relying on a company to make more power for them.
Do you have a build thread? I'd love to learn more about the ported heads and home built headers.
With aftermarket mods being so pricey I like to do work myself as well, but I'm not brave enough yet to port my own heads without some sort of guide. Haha
Great job on the build!

PJmak

wow awesome.

Honestly its mostly diy cheap mods sounds like and there is a gain of 100hp :o

Bobbyr5

Waiting on vehicle - engine bay pics and dyno graph

swedepat

Well.. in the past i made a couple of threads, look in my historic posts.
You´ll notice i didn´t popup like a mushroom from nowhere in this forum

I believe there are a couple of pics on enginebay and some more like headers etc etc.

Here´s a dynovid,, really boring actually:

swedepat

If one got possibilities and knowledge one can save huge amount of money on doing stuff on their own. =)
I got all that

I´ve been tuning a lot of engines(heads) here in Sweden, best result is 1003whp in an 2.2litre Audi 5cyl, at only 2.9bar of boost.
AND suprisingly a cracked inlet manifold *lol*

swedepat

Nice,, thanks.
No build thread, but some posts in the past if you search.

Example, i built headers and complete exhaust with quality hardware and resulted in about 650 dollars in total.
AND, bonus is, it performs better than universial speedparts as it is finetuned to my setup only.

Rgds.

swedepat

Picture of car.

swedepat

Airsystem


evosport pulleys


Elbow


Part of exhaust when changing cats, Magnaflow was junk!


Prototype inlet manifold that actually didn´t work as expected, sad. =(

PJmak

Sick looking car man.

Being from Sweden, do you know anything about Volvo xc60s. Im looking into the 2018 models.

Are they a good buy, reliable?? Are they still built in Sweden and not with Chinese parts?

feets

My question is about the raised RPM.

Your camshaft(s) is (are) the biggest factor deciding effective RPM. You did not change the cam. These engines roll off the power between 6100 and 6200 rpm. Head porting and breathing exercises might get you another 100 or 200 rpm. There's no need to zing the engine above 6500 rpm without a cam change.

Your gains look good so far but I'd have to see a dyno sheet showing the need for the higher engine speed.

swedepat

I actually know very little about them.
They are built in Sweden, and.. i would say every car today(almost) is built with some chinese parts in some way or another.
But they are quite reliable actually, we are thinking at home to change our moneypit (ml350-06) to an Volvo, but it hurts, Volvo in Sweden is the ultimate failure if you want to 'stick out of the crowd'

And,,, Thanks

swedepat

I actually don´t need the raised enginespeed for getting more power.
It´s for more topspeed in 5th gear as i bounced the revlimiter.
And, actually in first gear it also helps if i shift manually, i can shift a little bit later without hitting revlimiter in firstgear, this took away some time on the 0-60 distance.
It meets up better on second gear if shifting at ~7000rpm from first gear.
On second gear shifting to third i shift at 6800-6900rpm, no need for more rpm as you say.
If running in auto and sport mode, it actually shifts at lame ~6000rpm, huge timeloss!

And actually, my engine gave peak power at 6600-6700rpm if i remember correctly.
The heads are the difference here, they are SO F....ING bad std, i do not kid you.
AMG should be ashamed... A LOT!!
I have lost my pictures i had on facebook.

Between the bowl in the inletrunners and the area where you want the smallest area to get correct airspeed etc etc there are ridges from bowl portwork AMG probably made that are as big as 3mm protruding into ports
I´ll try to illustrate it below:



At red arrows, at top of runner they aren´t as bad as on the sides and the floor.


Trying to illustrate it, not correct head, but it should show the problem. And there are some more problems, but this is the major fault.

I also made a nice seatwork and backcut the valves, and widened the innerradius, etc etc.

I´m having a mod in my plans that i might make reality.
I´ll buy a rocker to see if it is possible.
I´ll make new rolls with larger diam and move the hydraulic tip to get correct rockergeometry.
Larger rolls will give me some more duration and a little bit changed geometry can give me a slight increase in valvelift.
I´ll look into that this winter.

But, remember, all my gains in 0-60 isn´t power alone.
The traction is sooo very bad on these cars std.
You need better rubber and adjust wheelalignment get some serious gains.
If a little bit cold tarmac and tires if fumble around at 5s *lol*
And running with tractioncontrol my times are f..ked
I need to warm up my semislicks and roll back in the same grooves, to start in somewhat heated up tarmac with some rubber on it, then try to leave with a slight wheelspin on first (the whole gear), cannot balancethis with throttle, i need to balance it with heat in tires.

swedepat

The screenshot in 1st post also shows some interesting stuff.
On the left on the screen it is gauges for longtime fueltrim.
Since dynosession fueltrim has raised to 8.6% on right cylinderbank and 10.2% on left cylinderband, this to keep the correct lambda.
This can actually only mean one thing, more power since dynosession

This is due to my work on limiting inlet airtempratures.
The more density the more oxygen in the same 'mass' of air.
Then the motronic compensates for this to keep the same lambda as before.
In this case - more fuel = more power =)

gofisch

Love that CAI. That headwork makes me envious. ; )

idlebumski

I'm jealous of the headwork too, mainly because know nothing about it and so too scared to go there. Your car is one of the better looking ones worldwide with those 19's and lowered. any chance you want to start making the air intakes to sell and ship?

swedepat

Thanks guys!

This car is fore sale as i speak.
Mercedesfriends in sweden,norway,denmark,finland, hear up.
On of the best c55´s out there in scandinavia