Insurance premiums
#1
Insurance premiums
I'm looking to pick up a lease on a 2017 gt base, and would appreciate input from forum members on insurance payments.
I got a $350/month quote from Allstate for comprehensive coverage... I definitely got sticker shock seeing that number. I'm not quite thirty, and live in the San Francisco Bay Area, but I've got a spotless record... It just seems way too high.
Am I overreacting here? What numbers are you all getting and with which providers?
I got a $350/month quote from Allstate for comprehensive coverage... I definitely got sticker shock seeing that number. I'm not quite thirty, and live in the San Francisco Bay Area, but I've got a spotless record... It just seems way too high.
Am I overreacting here? What numbers are you all getting and with which providers?
#7
I'm looking to pick up a lease on a 2017 gt base, and would appreciate input from forum members on insurance payments.
I got a $350/month quote from Allstate for comprehensive coverage... I definitely got sticker shock seeing that number. I'm not quite thirty, and live in the San Francisco Bay Area, but I've got a spotless record... It just seems way too high.
Am I overreacting here? What numbers are you all getting and with which providers?
I got a $350/month quote from Allstate for comprehensive coverage... I definitely got sticker shock seeing that number. I'm not quite thirty, and live in the San Francisco Bay Area, but I've got a spotless record... It just seems way too high.
Am I overreacting here? What numbers are you all getting and with which providers?
Get used to it, you’ll likely see higher.
First, walk away from AllState. The fact that they quoted you only compressive coverage for a leased vehicle is not only illegal, but it’s shady. Your $350 quote is likely in the 5’s maybe 6 hundred range, given the cost of collision coverage.
Next, given the fact that it’s a lease, MB USA requires at least 100/300/50 (per person, per accident, property damage) in liability limits to drive the vehicle off the lot. Since it is not your vehicle, should you strike someone or something with their car, they want it covered so no one comes after them.
You living in SF Bay is a reason, given high volume of people and greater risk of accidents. Don’t take this the wrong way, but do you have a clean record? Clean means never had so much as a seat belt violation or license plate holder ticket, not speeding tickets that you felt were not your fault or rear ending someone who “stopped short”. Don’t mean to pick on you, in a previous life I worked in the industry. Also, what is not quite thirty? Like you turn 30 tomorrow or you’re 26 - age matters when it comes to how long you have your drivers license. So if you’re 30 and you’ve had it for two years versus receiving it at 16, the prices are vastly different.
Factors that are inportant are obvuously record, years licensed, where you live, and how long you have maintained current insurance. Even if you wanted a GTR, you would not pay too much more.
I used to sell policies for a 458 Italia to a Huracan that would be less money than a 98 accord in the Bronx driven by a serial killer. The car doesn’t nearly matter as much as the person driving it.
Trending Topics
#9
Thanks sjm39! I expect my record to be clean as I haven't even had a parking ticket in the past several years, and I did drivers ed to get my single speeding ticket off my record eight years ago. It's nice to get confirmation that my location has something to do with high prices... I'm 28 and I've been driving for ten years, would you recommend a specific vendor or plan? Or do I just surrender to my fate?
Last edited by hardwired; 03-13-2018 at 08:28 PM.
#10
Of course!
State Farm is the top insurance company in the US, so I would start there. GEICO being #2, is always a good choice especially for service and claims. Try not to let people make your decision on here. No two policies are the same so when people brag or complain about their rates or the companies they’re with, they aren’t comparing the same things or variables.
Also, be honest. The worst thing you can do is try to rate hop and tell a company that you keep your vehicle at your parents address but it’s really elsewhere. Or you don’t have additional drivers and you do. And for goodness sake, do not let other people drive your car, ever. When the bad stuff happens, the corners you cut cost you thousands and typically your company will drop you.
Last, whatever you do, do not skimp on coverage just to get a cheap rate. I saw a post from a guy on here that said he had 10/20 state minimums and $2000 damage deductibles. That means if he hits a family of 4 and injures them, he only has $20k to cover ALL of them and he has to pay $2k for his insurance company to start the work on his car. Don’t go the cheap route, regardless of what people and commercials say.
State Farm is the top insurance company in the US, so I would start there. GEICO being #2, is always a good choice especially for service and claims. Try not to let people make your decision on here. No two policies are the same so when people brag or complain about their rates or the companies they’re with, they aren’t comparing the same things or variables.
Also, be honest. The worst thing you can do is try to rate hop and tell a company that you keep your vehicle at your parents address but it’s really elsewhere. Or you don’t have additional drivers and you do. And for goodness sake, do not let other people drive your car, ever. When the bad stuff happens, the corners you cut cost you thousands and typically your company will drop you.
Last, whatever you do, do not skimp on coverage just to get a cheap rate. I saw a post from a guy on here that said he had 10/20 state minimums and $2000 damage deductibles. That means if he hits a family of 4 and injures them, he only has $20k to cover ALL of them and he has to pay $2k for his insurance company to start the work on his car. Don’t go the cheap route, regardless of what people and commercials say.
The following users liked this post:
California John (03-14-2018)
#11
Thanks again! I'll reach out to state farm and gieco. The only reason I haven't talked to gieco so far is cuz I hate the gecko ads, but that's a pretty silly reason 😅
#12
Super Member
#13
Member
I have State Farm, with my home and two other autos, $1000 deductible, and pay $113/month.
I'm also 58, with a spotless driving record, and only one claim in the last 20 years.
I'm also 58, with a spotless driving record, and only one claim in the last 20 years.
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
ok well that’s really low and that explains your premiums.
What happens if your hit by an uninsured motorist ? Your absolute minimum should be 500/1m. And don’t talk to me about that State Farm umbrella because it’s liability only and won’t cover anything except when YOUR at fault.
What happens if your hit by an uninsured motorist ? Your absolute minimum should be 500/1m. And don’t talk to me about that State Farm umbrella because it’s liability only and won’t cover anything except when YOUR at fault.
#17
Visit an independent agent and let them do the shopping for you! Get an umbrella policy too. There are so many factors that go into rating a personal auto policy (PAP), no two are alike. Location, credit score, driving history, annual miles, vehicle, age of everyone else in your household, etc...
#18
ok well that’s really low and that explains your premiums.
What happens if your hit by an uninsured motorist ? Your absolute minimum should be 500/1m. And don’t talk to me about that State Farm umbrella because it’s liability only and won’t cover anything except when YOUR at fault.
BI: 100/300
PD: 100
UM: 100/300
UM PD: 100/300
if you so choose to do 500 / 1M, companies will often ask about your assets / debts and do some underwriting before issuing. I assume most on here have accumulated wealth, so it’s a good idea. But to confirm, it is not a substitute for UM.
#19
Visit an independent agent and let them do the shopping for you! Get an umbrella policy too. There are so many factors that go into rating a personal auto policy (PAP), no two are alike. Location, credit score, driving history, annual miles, vehicle, age of everyone else in your household, etc...
Independant agents are not availble for you all the time, they don’t schedule your maintende or repairs, they don’t set up your rental, and again, they essentially collect a check and deligate. You will end up fronting costs because they set you up with some “cheap” insurance. If your company isn’t paying you out first and subbrogating on the backend, then run.
Agents are a thing of the past and just want to pile product on you. “Sorry that your rate went up Mr. ____, let me find you something cheaper”. Then you get company x, the rate is $300 cheaper than what you had before, but what people seldom do, which is evident on this forum, is check their coverages and know what they actually have.
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Not always the best idea. Independant agents have the ability to hike up rates when bringing in new business and pretty much just collect commission every time you renew. Worse, if you are someone who is very keen on shopping around all the time, then your insurance tenure will suffer and you will eventually find yourself not saving any money because you only have 6 months - 2 yrs at best with a company.
Independant agents are not availble for you all the time, they don’t schedule your maintende or repairs, they don’t set up your rental, and again, they essentially collect a check and deligate. You will end up fronting costs because they set you up with some “cheap” insurance. If your company isn’t paying you out first and subbrogating on the backend, then run.
Agents are a thing of the past and just want to pile product on you. “Sorry that your rate went up Mr. ____, let me find you something cheaper”. Then you get company x, the rate is $300 cheaper than what you had before, but what people seldom do, which is evident on this forum, is check their coverages and know what they actually have.
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
Being hit by an uninsured motorist has nothing to do with his 100/300/100 - those are coverages for bodily injury liability (the coverage you have when YOU hit someone else) and property damage (when YOU damage someone else’s property). Most states mandate uninsured / underinsured motorist coverage. If you’re doing it right and not cheaping out, you would match your bodily liability coverages, ex:
BI: 100/300
PD: 100
UM: 100/300
UM PD: 100/300
if you so choose to do 500 / 1M, companies will often ask about your assets / debts and do some underwriting before issuing. I assume most on here have accumulated wealth, so it’s a good idea. But to confirm, it is not a substitute for UM.
so UM of 100k is “doing it right” "?
#24
On that note, I cited those figures as an example. The doing it right was related to matching the figure. Therefore in your case, you would want to do $500K / $1M for UM.
Just trying to help people with experience. Not sure where the “you have no idea what you are talking about” comment is warranted, but carry on. Hope others benefited.
#25
But you’ve had enough time and care enough to read through my comments and speak to what you read out of context. These are not my beliefs, but actual facts as someone who sold insurance to 10 different states in the Northeast and managed policies along the way. I was involved in Hurricane Sandy, countless snowstorms, and assisted customers in areas where people are not required to carry insurance - so yes, I do know what I’m talking about.