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Helo everyone I recently bought a 2005 E55. Beautiful car in awesome shape but came with an issue. Previous owner had a shop install a lower pulley. The bolt came loose and spun on the crank. Looking for some advise, I bought the car with the intentions of putting in a replacement motor. Anyone with experience with this does it look like replacing the crank pulley along with a new bolt look like it would stay on? The crank snout does look a bit chewed up. Ive been doing some research and it seems proper torque of the bolt is very important(148ft/lbs and aditional 90 degrees. Also an arp bolt was used.
How destroyed is that keyway in the crank? It looks pretty bad.
This isn't an area you want to play games with, but if the key could be salvaged or possibly reamed out a size larger and re-used (the new pulley would have to be cut larger as well), it could work. It would be risky, but if that's the only damage to the engine it's far from scrap at that point, to me. It's worth a try at least.
How destroyed is that keyway in the crank? It looks pretty bad.
This isn't an area you want to play games with, but if the key could be salvaged or possibly reamed out a size larger and re-used (the new pulley would have to be cut larger as well), it could work. It would be risky, but if that's the only damage to the engine it's far from scrap at that point, to me. It's worth a try at least.
The motor runs perfect and there is no other damage. From what I understand the crank snout does not come with a key was the comes to the end it stops just after the gear for the oil pump chain. It's inteded to align the crank pulley and is not ment to secure the pulley from spinning. The tention of the bolt is what keeps the pulley secure. I'm hoping the crank isn't worn too much where the new pulley does not sit centered. It comes in on Friday so hopefully I have this thing back up and running soon.
You do need to be sure that there is no material between that pulley and the gear or sticking up out of the crank, so it sits flat and square to the crank. If not, it will tear that front seal out very fast and possibly loosen up again if there's any sort of wobble to it. Good luck either way, make sure the threads are clean, add a little loctite, and torque the bolt to spec, it has to be TIGHT!
A good crank pulley comes with a pin kit. Weistec makes a really good one. If the crank fits a little loose, use green loctite sleeve retainer. and replace the seal because it will never come back off in one piece. The sleeve retainer is a last resort because it's permanent,
A good crank pulley comes with a pin kit. Weistec makes a really good one. If the crank fits a little loose, use green loctite sleeve retainer. and replace the seal because it will never come back off in one piece. The sleeve retainer is a last resort because it's permanent,
Thanks for the info on the green loc tite, great idea. My last resort is replacing the motor anyway if this doesn't work. What do you think about this. I'm fine with is the pulley staying on permanent. Also, will the weistec pin kit work on a stock pulley. Thanks.
I haven't had one off, but I don't think it is a press fit, Loctite makes exactly the right stuff. If you have to buy a pulley, at least get ASP, or ARP, or whoever it is that makes them out of stock pulleys. You're only going to do this once. Go with 180mm.
Helo everyone I recently bought a 2005 E55. Beautiful car in awesome shape but came with an issue. Previous owner had a shop install a lower pulley. The bolt came loose and spun on the crank. Looking for some advise, I bought the car with the intentions of putting in a replacement motor. Anyone with experience with this does it look like replacing the crank pulley along with a new bolt look like it would stay on? The crank snout does look a bit chewed up. Ive been doing some research and it seems proper torque of the bolt is very important(148ft/lbs and aditional 90 degrees. Also an arp bolt was used.
Here is the beauty we are working on, previous owner took really good care of her. Its a 2005 has 149k miles, motor runs great. Trying to save rhe motor any way I can. Does anyone know where I can find the correct pulley holder tool for torquing down the bolt.
Great looking car, looks like it has extensive mods, I hope you get it sorted. I haven't noticed that intake before. When things are fixed and working I would weld up a new T-piece going to the throttle body, I suspect there is poor flow with that 90 degree design. Something more like https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/M5gAA...pXR/s-l640.jpg
Great looking car, looks like it has extensive mods, I hope you get it sorted. I haven't noticed that intake before. When things are fixed and working I would weld up a new T-piece going to the throttle body, I suspect there is poor flow with that 90 degree design. Something more like https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/M5gAA...pXR/s-l640.jpg
Thats looks like a great piece thanks for the idea.
Pulley came in today looks much better that the chewed up one. I did a test fit and it goes on pretty snug and couldn't push it in all the hoping that's a good sign the shaft is still good enough. Also going to try this loc tite sleeve repair that was recomended. I may of found a BIP pin kit from a member hopefully that doesn't fall through. I'm not putting this pulley on without pinning it properly.
That snout damage looks pretty gnarly, but you have nothing to lose in trying to fix. Please keep us updated on how it turns out.
Also fyi, the 148 ft-lbs dry + 90 turn is for the OEM stretch bolt only. If you're reusing the ARP bolt, it's apparently 250 ft-lbs WITH ARP assembly lube (on threads and under bolt head), so you're talking about some orbit-stopping preload. Also probably want to specifically use ARP's lube, otherwise your preload will be all over the place. Here's a thread where this is mentioned: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...mm-pulley.html
My guess is the shop that did the install used the OEM torque procedure.
Clean up the back where that pulley will butt up against the chain gear with a dremel tool so it sits flush where it is supposed too,I used ARP BOLT @ 280 ft lbs ,find a pin kit like that pic shoeing two dowels ,I elongated my crank keyway slot and fit a long keyway and did one dowel as shown in that pic with the ARP bolt .
you can use the mercedes balancer holding tool,or the tool you can put in where the starter goes to hold the flywheel, some people use a longer bolt into the torque converter the way Weistec shows ,I would never do that personally,
good luck.I have seen worse fixed,just take your time,
That snout damage looks pretty gnarly, but you have nothing to lose in trying to fix. Please keep us updated on how it turns out.
Also fyi, the 148 ft-lbs dry + 90 turn is for the OEM stretch bolt only. If you're reusing the ARP bolt, it's apparently 250 ft-lbs WITH ARP assembly lube (on threads and under bolt head), so you're talking about some orbit-stopping preload. Also probably want to specifically use ARP's lube, otherwise your preload will be all over the place. Here's a thread where this is mentioned: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...mm-pulley.html
My guess is the shop that did the install used the OEM torque procedure.
This car has been through two different shops. And both times the ARP bolt was used. Since I'm using the stock pulley I'm going to use a new oem bolt and tq it to factory spec. I feel that's the best route to take in my case.
I removed the entire front end. I feel this was the best thing to do to have a good work space. Even if I can't find a pin kit I think I should be able to drill the pulley and crank snout to insert a couple dowel pins. This also give me plenty of room to clean up the keyway channel for a new keyway.
Helo everyone I recently bought a 2005 E55. Beautiful car in awesome shape but came with an issue. Previous owner had a shop install a lower pulley. The bolt came loose and spun on the crank. Looking for some advise, I bought the car with the intentions of putting in a replacement motor. Anyone with experience with this does it look like replacing the crank pulley along with a new bolt look like it would stay on? The crank snout does look a bit chewed up. Ive been doing some research and it seems proper torque of the bolt is very important(148ft/lbs and aditional 90 degrees. Also an arp bolt was used.
the way that pulley flange is broken it looks like it was mounted wrong and mashed the key up against the gear, that’s what it looks like to me anyway, if that happene any bolt used would loosen up .look at the 4 o’clock position on pulley flange looks to me like that’s where it was mounted .
06-21-2018, 12:16 AM
