BraggE550

I'm getting the dreaded vibration at idle, and already replaced the transmission mount. My next step is to replace the engine mounts, but I'm getting different part numbers on the various parts vendors websites. Can someone help me identify the correct parts for the W212 E550 4-matic? Also, any recommendations on OEM vs aftermarket parts?

cocobeex

are you sure its engine mount issue ?
And how so ?

Youngd

mercy-me

I replaced mounts on my '12 E350 M276 and they come out through the top. You have the M273 and WIS instructions state that they are removed out the bottom between the front axle carrier and lower rack and pinion. Read through the instructions and see where you can short cut. Hopefully someone on the forum will chime in with first hand experience to aid you. Perhaps the other board Benzworld will have experience also to share.

Attached EPC pdf is using a vin number from an '11 E550 4Matic so parts should be accurate. I would suggest either going with MB original or what many of us think is the best substitute Lemfoerder.

Post back your success story,

Good luck,
Bob

LemonSqueezy

Like mentioned above are you sure it's the engine mounts? A quote from the dealer will run you something like $3500, independent shop probably around $1800. The 550 4matic mounts are not easy to get to with the v8 and awd. It's like a 10 hour labor operation

Oda112

If you have the M273 NA you'll have to go through the same procedure I have. The mounts are 4matic specific if I'm not mistaken, I got the OE ones for around 125$ each.
Read this : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ounts-now.html
And this : https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-question.html
I didn't make a complete DIY thread but you should find all the info you need by reading the above threads.
The part number for E550 4matics with the M273 NA engine is A2212400417 and you'll need two.
I do recommend OE parts, I cheaped out on the tranny mount and bought a Corteco, which is still causing slight vibrations when in D/R while stopped (nothing like before but still un-MB-like).
You'll also need an 16mm offset wrench to get to the top bolt on each mount.
Good luck!

BraggE550

Thanks everyone for the quick responses and very helpful information. I'm impressed with the depth of knowledge and experience from the members of this forum!

How do I know it's the engine mounts? That seems to be a common theme on these cars after a significant mileage (mine is 140,000 kms), and seems a fairly cheap fix if I do the work myself. I would definitely not pay the dealer $3500 to do this!

Youngd

Mud

OEM vs aftermarket - for me, if it's a key part and/or a big job to replace I go OEM. Been bitten before when I went cheap.

Oda112

If you read the threads I linked you'll find the answer to your question and will be able to figure out which engine/tranny suspension parts need changing.

BraggE550

I finally got around to tackling this job, and with all of the resources that you guys provided (especially Oda112) I've been able to complete the left engine mount. On the right one, I'm getting stuck though on removing the heat shield bolt that is hidden beneath the exhaust header. Do you have any tips, Oda112? Did you do this with extension bars and swivel joints from underneath the vehicle? The only alternative I see is removing the catalytic converter as MB says, which won't be easy either...

Oda112

I had a bit of trouble removing those things as well. For the passenger side heat shield bolts I used a swivel head towards the bolt end combined with about 1.5ft extension ( coming at it from behind the cat). It takes a lot of finagling but it's doable. Those bolts shouldn't be on too tight. Another tool that saved me was my flex head, ratcheting wrench. I bought a metric set from Tekton, they're a little expensive but very good quality and versatile ( ). They fir over the E-torx perfectly too.
For the top bolt, you should be able to use a flex head too, I can't remember if it was reachable from the top via swivel head & extension. But those are the two methods I used.

SBundlez

Do I get the 16 or the 17 special tool for the W212?

BraggE550

I used the 16mm (ordered from Ebay) for my 2011 E550 4matic.

egalt

$3500..????!?!?!?! LOL HA HA HA HA HA HA

Only in California! LOL!!!!!!

sturitter

Front motor mounts, 2011 E350, just done at Mercedes of Denver, Parts $370, Labor $870............with Tax and Tip that comes to $1,240 in my book.

Stu

pb39374

Do you notice a big difference in the way it drives now?

sturitter

Sure, all of the vibration at idle went away. My independent replaced the rear to see how much improvement there would be, some but not enough. He didn't want to do the front mounts as the 4Matic made it very difficult so I took it to Mercedes of Denver.
Difference is dramatic as the vibration had gotten really bad. Dealer charged 6 hours labor which is the book time for the front mounts.

Stu

87NATTY

A huge "thank you" to everyone for their contributions to the various threads outlining this repair! I have a slight vibration at stoplights on occasion, and seems to be showing early symptoms of needing engine mounts. I'll start with the rear (transmission), but with just over 80k miles, I'm certain the fronts aren't far behind.

jumpman726

I have 104,000 miles on my '12 E550 4matic and I honestly never even thought about engine mounts until I saw this thread. It doesn't feel like anything is wrong with the car. Most of my driving is on the highway at high speed instead of stop and go traffic, so I don't know if that would make a difference in terms of longevity of the engine mounts.

I love the engine, but these types of expensive repairs have me considering trading it in for a slightly used car, like a 2018 S-Class or 2018/19 7-series with low miles. Although, if the 2020 BMW M550i gets the new V-8 engine with 523hp later this year I would strongly consider leasing that one.

sturitter

Very simple way to test the motor mounts. In gear, parking brake on (just in case) at idle, in gear, with left foot pushing on the brake pedal, just slightly raise the engine rpm 2-300 rpm. This will lift the weight off the most collapsed mount and the engine will smooth out if you have defective motor mounts. If the vibration continues at the increased rpm you should look elsewhere.

Stu