Multiple headlamp messages
02-16-2019, 04:55 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Multiple headlamp messages
The car is a '14 E63S. Got it with a tad under 30K in Sept of '17 and it is now at 32.7K. "Mods": KW HAS, Wheels and tires and AFE filters.
As you can see based on the car's mileage, I barely drive this thing. And when I do, it's 99% during the day. I was out with the wife in the E63 last night. Drove her to Staples and waited for her in the car (left car running). ~5mins go by I decide to turn off the headlights by turning the headlamp control knob and left the car running. Wife gets out of the store and I flash with the high beams 2-3X's to let her know where I was in the lot. I turned the headlight control knob back to auto and off we drove. ~3 mins later, I started to get the following messages:
-Active Headlamp Inoperative
-Check Left Low Beam
-Check Front Right Side Marker Lamp
-Check Front Right Parking Lamp
Got to our destination. Powered down the car. Went to dinner (~1.5hrs). Started the car. All messages came back. All items on checklist are actually happening (I have read posts concerning headlamp malfunctions where the lights were actually still working even when of the message popped up). High Beams are completely not working (In Auto or ON).
Started the car this morning and messages still there. Drove for a ~20mins and I decided to play with the light settings a bit after I parked. I turned off the DRLs and the Right High Beam came back. Turned off car. 15mins later drove again and two new messages pop up:
-Check Right Daytime Running Light
-Adaptive Highbeam Assist Inoperative
I have to say, I am very certain this was the first time I ever turned the headlamp control knob (and this is what I get). I have been google re-searching this issue and haven't found anything like this (I must be special). I don't suppose it's a fuse (cuz I'd think that if it were, both headlamps would have the same symptoms...) Also read there could be headlamp malfunctions if there is debris blocking the sensors on the windshield and the car is clean. I have charged the battery (main) with a trickle charger various times and it has shown it's at 12V and 100% charged every time. What else can this be? The actual headlamps (both) breaking down at the same time?? Last thing I did was to disconnect the negative terminal off the battery... I will leave it as is til tomorrow and see what cooks. Anyone on here got any ideas? Sorry for the long post.
As you can see based on the car's mileage, I barely drive this thing. And when I do, it's 99% during the day. I was out with the wife in the E63 last night. Drove her to Staples and waited for her in the car (left car running). ~5mins go by I decide to turn off the headlights by turning the headlamp control knob and left the car running. Wife gets out of the store and I flash with the high beams 2-3X's to let her know where I was in the lot. I turned the headlight control knob back to auto and off we drove. ~3 mins later, I started to get the following messages:
-Active Headlamp Inoperative
-Check Left Low Beam
-Check Front Right Side Marker Lamp
-Check Front Right Parking Lamp
Got to our destination. Powered down the car. Went to dinner (~1.5hrs). Started the car. All messages came back. All items on checklist are actually happening (I have read posts concerning headlamp malfunctions where the lights were actually still working even when of the message popped up). High Beams are completely not working (In Auto or ON).
Started the car this morning and messages still there. Drove for a ~20mins and I decided to play with the light settings a bit after I parked. I turned off the DRLs and the Right High Beam came back. Turned off car. 15mins later drove again and two new messages pop up:
-Check Right Daytime Running Light
-Adaptive Highbeam Assist Inoperative
I have to say, I am very certain this was the first time I ever turned the headlamp control knob (and this is what I get). I have been google re-searching this issue and haven't found anything like this (I must be special). I don't suppose it's a fuse (cuz I'd think that if it were, both headlamps would have the same symptoms...) Also read there could be headlamp malfunctions if there is debris blocking the sensors on the windshield and the car is clean. I have charged the battery (main) with a trickle charger various times and it has shown it's at 12V and 100% charged every time. What else can this be? The actual headlamps (both) breaking down at the same time?? Last thing I did was to disconnect the negative terminal off the battery... I will leave it as is til tomorrow and see what cooks. Anyone on here got any ideas? Sorry for the long post.
02-16-2019, 05:09 PM
#2
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I take it you read this already? (See link)
I would check the fuses again.
agreed that it's weird that both motors in headlamps died at same time
https://www.youcanic.com/solution/me...em-inoperative
I would check the fuses again.
agreed that it's weird that both motors in headlamps died at same time
https://www.youcanic.com/solution/me...em-inoperative
02-16-2019, 05:12 PM
#3
Super Member
Thread Starter
I take it you read this already? (See link)
I would check the fuses again.
agreed that it's weird that both motors in headlamps died at same time
https://www.youcanic.com/solution/me...em-inoperative
I would check the fuses again.
agreed that it's weird that both motors in headlamps died at same time
https://www.youcanic.com/solution/me...em-inoperative
02-16-2019, 08:32 PM
#4
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02-16-2019, 09:38 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
02-17-2019, 03:49 AM
#6
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993 cab, 2014 E63 AMG 4matic T
Had some of those messages on my 2014 as well. Over a period of 6 months, I had to have both units replaced. The first light developed a short in the ecu which damaged the pcb of the blinker leads. Since the housing is sealed, there's no fixing single components inside. New headlight was 2800 euros installed and calibrated. Dealer covered 50%.
The 2nd headlight also developed a short in the ecu but this time it was a leaking dessicant bag which is supposed to keep the lense from fogging up. Cost of replacement was covered by the dealer because they fugged up.
I hope you have better luck on your problems.
Ed
The 2nd headlight also developed a short in the ecu but this time it was a leaking dessicant bag which is supposed to keep the lense from fogging up. Cost of replacement was covered by the dealer because they fugged up.
I hope you have better luck on your problems.
Ed
02-17-2019, 08:49 AM
#7
Super Member
Related but not really note. Headlights do have separate fuses, which you already know, so one can definitely go out without the other going out.
I had issues with my auto headlights (could still turn them on manually) and it turned out to be a bad headlight switch. MAY be worth getting a used on eon ebay and plug it in to try. Takes less than 5 min to do. They are cheap since all E class uses the same one.
I had issues with my auto headlights (could still turn them on manually) and it turned out to be a bad headlight switch. MAY be worth getting a used on eon ebay and plug it in to try. Takes less than 5 min to do. They are cheap since all E class uses the same one.
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02-17-2019, 09:54 AM
#8
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It sure does sound like all these issues started when you moved that switch; i haven't moved that dial switch from auto since I had the car new
02-17-2019, 01:39 PM
#9
Super Member
Thread Starter
As expected, unfortunately, the reset did jack. The first four messages I listed above came back on and are still saved on dash. The last two messages did not save nor did they come back on. The only thing I am able to do with the knob is to shut off what's left of the headlights or turn them back on to said state. Right high beam that had come back after I played with DRL is gone again (did not bother messing with DRL).
EcKFe1, that really sucks. Our cars are barely 5 yrs old. Mine barely ever even sees rain. It's garage kept and only driven on the weekend. FWIW, my headlights (both) did fog up every time I washed the car last summer.
FastWgn, I hear ya. It's just so weird that different parts of each went out at the same time. It COULD be the stupid headlight switch. Why couldn't toyota build the GSF AWD, with a nicer grille and with and extra 300HP?
Peter, leave that knob alone!
EcKFe1, that really sucks. Our cars are barely 5 yrs old. Mine barely ever even sees rain. It's garage kept and only driven on the weekend. FWIW, my headlights (both) did fog up every time I washed the car last summer.
FastWgn, I hear ya. It's just so weird that different parts of each went out at the same time. It COULD be the stupid headlight switch. Why couldn't toyota build the GSF AWD, with a nicer grille and with and extra 300HP?
Peter, leave that knob alone!
02-17-2019, 01:53 PM
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
So this is the only time I move away from auto. Having done this a few times, I have never had any issues. But I have a 2015 and maybe they solved this rare issue for 2015. Just guessing.
02-17-2019, 02:04 PM
#11
MBWorld Fanatic!
One more thing you could try:
The panel that the HL switch is attached to comes out fairly easily if you have the pull hooks. I had it out when I installed my ALP laser jammers. There are a few different connectors pushed onto that switch as I recall. I tapped into one of them for my 12v source to the ALP controller. My point to you is that perhaps one of these came loose when you turned the switch out of shear bad luck???
You might pull that panel and have a look. You can likely make a pair of these hooks from a wire clothes hanger. Then go to youtube and search removal of dash trim. You will see how easy it is to pull it out.
Word of caution. Be carefull not to snare the little spring wire inside the vent!!! I accidentally did and then spent another 30 minutes putting the vent assembly back together.
The panel that the HL switch is attached to comes out fairly easily if you have the pull hooks. I had it out when I installed my ALP laser jammers. There are a few different connectors pushed onto that switch as I recall. I tapped into one of them for my 12v source to the ALP controller. My point to you is that perhaps one of these came loose when you turned the switch out of shear bad luck???
You might pull that panel and have a look. You can likely make a pair of these hooks from a wire clothes hanger. Then go to youtube and search removal of dash trim. You will see how easy it is to pull it out.
Word of caution. Be carefull not to snare the little spring wire inside the vent!!! I accidentally did and then spent another 30 minutes putting the vent assembly back together.
02-17-2019, 02:06 PM
#12
Super Member
Thread Starter
I discovered that if you want the high beams to stay on when you push the lever forward you must rurn the switch one position to the right away from auto. In auto, you can only get the momentary high beams while pulling and holding the lever. This is a PIA when on a long dark road less traveled.
So this is the only time I move away from auto. Having done this a few times, I have never had any issues. But I have a 2015 and maybe they solved this rare issue for 2015. Just guessing.
02-17-2019, 02:08 PM
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
Correction.
You want to pull the trim piece above the HL switch. The piece with the vent. You can the see the connectors on the back of the switch.
You want to pull the trim piece above the HL switch. The piece with the vent. You can the see the connectors on the back of the switch.
02-17-2019, 02:09 PM
#14
Super Member
Thread Starter
One more thing you could try:
The panel that the HL switch is attached to comes out fairly easily if you have the pull hooks. I had it out when I installed my ALP laser jammers. There are a few different connectors pushed onto that switch as I recall. I tapped into one of them for my 12v source to the ALP controller. My point to you is that perhaps one of these came loose when you turned the switch out of shear bad luck???
You might pull that panel and have a look. You can likely make a pair of these hooks from a wire clothes hanger. Then go to youtube and search removal of dash trim. You will see how easy it is to pull it out.
Word of caution. Be carefull not to snare the little spring wire inside the vent!!! I accidentally did and then spent another 30 minutes putting the vent assembly back together.
The panel that the HL switch is attached to comes out fairly easily if you have the pull hooks. I had it out when I installed my ALP laser jammers. There are a few different connectors pushed onto that switch as I recall. I tapped into one of them for my 12v source to the ALP controller. My point to you is that perhaps one of these came loose when you turned the switch out of shear bad luck???
You might pull that panel and have a look. You can likely make a pair of these hooks from a wire clothes hanger. Then go to youtube and search removal of dash trim. You will see how easy it is to pull it out.
Word of caution. Be carefull not to snare the little spring wire inside the vent!!! I accidentally did and then spent another 30 minutes putting the vent assembly back together.
02-17-2019, 02:55 PM
#15
Super Member
I had the same thing happen to my 2015 last year, started throwing all the same warnings. Turns out one of the headlights had a bad seal and got moisture inside. Replaced lamp assembly and all good. FYI the bad headlight was visibly fogged.
02-17-2019, 03:05 PM
#16
Super Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for your input.
BTW, I checked the fuses that correspond to "Exterior Lamp Switch" and "Turn Signal Lamps" and they are fine.
02-17-2019, 07:52 PM
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
No good deed goes unpunished! Lol
02-17-2019, 10:39 PM
#18
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My money is that you either have a switch/harness issue or you ultimately have a bilateral headlight issue ... are you under warranty?
02-17-2019, 10:42 PM
#19
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02-17-2019, 10:53 PM
#20
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02-17-2019, 10:56 PM
#21
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02-17-2019, 11:52 PM
#22
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understandable ... you can also claim it on insurance... if for some reason someone were to crack your headlights with a bat
02-17-2019, 11:53 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
02-23-2019, 04:41 PM
#24
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Thread Starter
Update and resolution. I will leave this here should any other unfortunate soul be unlucky enough to experience this "uncommon issue" (as per dealer).
Invoice reads as follows:
"32783 Verified compliant found left low beam inop, right side blinker inop and both headlamps no responsive to high beam. Will need further diag to remove front bumper cover and headlights to check modules for corrosion. Further diagnosis performed on line F and all repairs"
"F** Line a concern - Diag time
CAUSE: Narrowed down to headlight control modules need more time to drop front bumper cover and take out headlights
S182 Repair electrical system, replace modules and code program. Verify repair
607 CMBS
1 222-870-07-89-80 Reman Voltage Converter
2 000-982-96-10 Cable connector
3 218-900-73-06 Reman CU COMPL
DEADL.RNGE.ADJ. LED VAR2
32783 Left headlamp E1n7 LED activation control unit defective.
Right front is not getting power chaffed power wire. Removed front bumper cover removed left headlight replaced E1n7 control unit for LED activation.
On right front headlight cut and spliced power wire. After repairs performed LED control unit activation all works as designed at this time. Function checked
headlight for blinker high beam and low beams all works as designed at this time. When taking vehicle out right cornering light illuminated on dash, found E2n9 control unit
on right headlight to have burnt out due to chaffed wire. Replace control unit performed initial start up at this time all works as designed.
G** left headlight control module - replace
CAUSE: control module E1n7 - LED activation module has corrosion.
32783 diag and repairs done on line f
H** right headlight - wiring repair"
Dealer said this is not a common problem "These are very complex cars and sometimes these things just go"
On the bright side, at least it wasn't the actual headlights that magically and simultaneously developed issues and had to be replaced.
Wasn't very thrilled about them having to pull off the bumper cover to access headlight control units and not very impressed by the fact that I found the car was missing two fasteners on the driver's side fender liner (makes me think what else wasn't put back on). Furthermore, how is it that there were wires that were "chaffed"??
Just glad this issue has been solved.
Invoice reads as follows:
"32783 Verified compliant found left low beam inop, right side blinker inop and both headlamps no responsive to high beam. Will need further diag to remove front bumper cover and headlights to check modules for corrosion. Further diagnosis performed on line F and all repairs"
"F** Line a concern - Diag time
CAUSE: Narrowed down to headlight control modules need more time to drop front bumper cover and take out headlights
S182 Repair electrical system, replace modules and code program. Verify repair
607 CMBS
1 222-870-07-89-80 Reman Voltage Converter
2 000-982-96-10 Cable connector
3 218-900-73-06 Reman CU COMPL
DEADL.RNGE.ADJ. LED VAR2
32783 Left headlamp E1n7 LED activation control unit defective.
Right front is not getting power chaffed power wire. Removed front bumper cover removed left headlight replaced E1n7 control unit for LED activation.
On right front headlight cut and spliced power wire. After repairs performed LED control unit activation all works as designed at this time. Function checked
headlight for blinker high beam and low beams all works as designed at this time. When taking vehicle out right cornering light illuminated on dash, found E2n9 control unit
on right headlight to have burnt out due to chaffed wire. Replace control unit performed initial start up at this time all works as designed.
G** left headlight control module - replace
CAUSE: control module E1n7 - LED activation module has corrosion.
32783 diag and repairs done on line f
H** right headlight - wiring repair"
Dealer said this is not a common problem "These are very complex cars and sometimes these things just go"
On the bright side, at least it wasn't the actual headlights that magically and simultaneously developed issues and had to be replaced.Wasn't very thrilled about them having to pull off the bumper cover to access headlight control units and not very impressed by the fact that I found the car was missing two fasteners on the driver's side fender liner (makes me think what else wasn't put back on). Furthermore, how is it that there were wires that were "chaffed"??
Just glad this issue has been solved.
02-23-2019, 06:02 PM
#25
Update and resolution. I will leave this here should any other unfortunate soul be unlucky enough to experience this "uncommon issue" (as per dealer).
Invoice reads as follows:
"32783 Verified compliant found left low beam inop, right side blinker inop and both headlamps no responsive to high beam. Will need further diag to remove front bumper cover and headlights to check modules for corrosion. Further diagnosis performed on line F and all repairs"
"F** Line a concern - Diag time
CAUSE: Narrowed down to headlight control modules need more time to drop front bumper cover and take out headlights
S182 Repair electrical system, replace modules and code program. Verify repair
607 CMBS
1 222-870-07-89-80 Reman Voltage Converter
2 000-982-96-10 Cable connector
3 218-900-73-06 Reman CU COMPL
DEADL.RNGE.ADJ. LED VAR2
32783 Left headlamp E1n7 LED activation control unit defective.
Right front is not getting power chaffed power wire. Removed front bumper cover removed left headlight replaced E1n7 control unit for LED activation.
On right front headlight cut and spliced power wire. After repairs performed LED control unit activation all works as designed at this time. Function checked
headlight for blinker high beam and low beams all works as designed at this time. When taking vehicle out right cornering light illuminated on dash, found E2n9 control unit
on right headlight to have burnt out due to chaffed wire. Replace control unit performed initial start up at this time all works as designed.
G** left headlight control module - replace
CAUSE: control module E1n7 - LED activation module has corrosion.
32783 diag and repairs done on line f
H** right headlight - wiring repair"
Dealer said this is not a common problem "These are very complex cars and sometimes these things just go" On the bright side, at least it wasn't the actual headlights that magically and simultaneously developed issues and had to be replaced.
Wasn't very thrilled about them having to pull off the bumper cover to access headlight control units and not very impressed by the fact that I found the car was missing two fasteners on the driver's side fender liner (makes me think what else wasn't put back on). Furthermore, how is it that there were wires that were "chaffed"??
Just glad this issue has been solved.
Invoice reads as follows:
"32783 Verified compliant found left low beam inop, right side blinker inop and both headlamps no responsive to high beam. Will need further diag to remove front bumper cover and headlights to check modules for corrosion. Further diagnosis performed on line F and all repairs"
"F** Line a concern - Diag time
CAUSE: Narrowed down to headlight control modules need more time to drop front bumper cover and take out headlights
S182 Repair electrical system, replace modules and code program. Verify repair
607 CMBS
1 222-870-07-89-80 Reman Voltage Converter
2 000-982-96-10 Cable connector
3 218-900-73-06 Reman CU COMPL
DEADL.RNGE.ADJ. LED VAR2
32783 Left headlamp E1n7 LED activation control unit defective.
Right front is not getting power chaffed power wire. Removed front bumper cover removed left headlight replaced E1n7 control unit for LED activation.
On right front headlight cut and spliced power wire. After repairs performed LED control unit activation all works as designed at this time. Function checked
headlight for blinker high beam and low beams all works as designed at this time. When taking vehicle out right cornering light illuminated on dash, found E2n9 control unit
on right headlight to have burnt out due to chaffed wire. Replace control unit performed initial start up at this time all works as designed.
G** left headlight control module - replace
CAUSE: control module E1n7 - LED activation module has corrosion.
32783 diag and repairs done on line f
H** right headlight - wiring repair"
Dealer said this is not a common problem "These are very complex cars and sometimes these things just go"
On the bright side, at least it wasn't the actual headlights that magically and simultaneously developed issues and had to be replaced.Wasn't very thrilled about them having to pull off the bumper cover to access headlight control units and not very impressed by the fact that I found the car was missing two fasteners on the driver's side fender liner (makes me think what else wasn't put back on). Furthermore, how is it that there were wires that were "chaffed"??
Just glad this issue has been solved.
