E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Lower Control Arm Ball Joint HELP

Old 03-16-2019, 01:27 AM
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Lower Control Arm Ball Joint HELP

I've literally searched everywhere for this and tonight spent 4 hours staring and fiddling with the ball joint that needs to be compressed/pressed out of the lower control arm/steering knuckle area. To be clear,the knuckle area contains front lower control arm that has the ball joint built into it, where you just need to separate it to replace it. Then there is the tie rod part which I am not replacing. There is then the lower control arm which houses the sway bar/airmatic shock, etc. This lower control arm sits on top of a ball joint that is compressed into the steering knuckle.

For those of you that have succeeded in pressing this ball joint out, what tools did you use and how did you gain "leverage" upon it? Because others on some posts commented they succeeded with only autozone generic ball joint press tools, I just purchased this generic kit off Amazon:
Amazon Amazon

However, no matter how hard a turn the breaker bar attached with some counterforce, after 1-2 full rotations with the breaker bar, I seem to have reached a terminal force that I cannot overcome? I take a peek and the ball joint has not even moved one bit.

Do you need to remove the front lower control arm to press out the ball joint? I see some people do it and some don't on the forums. The cup seats perfectly fine when positioning the ball joint press.

Thank you
Old 03-16-2019, 02:30 AM
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That lower control arm, sometimes called spring control arm, has to be removed from the knuckle before you can press out the ball joint. Because of the amount of force that is holding the ball joint when attached to the knuckle, a normal ball joint clamp will not be strong enough to free it. Since you are replacing that ball joint, I recommend you either hammer it off the knuckle, then use the ball joint tool to get it out of the control arm. Or use a ball joint clamp to get it freed off the knuckle and then proceed.
Old 03-16-2019, 06:03 AM
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I used one of these:
Amazon Amazon

I modified it by adding a dimple where the bolt presses on the jaw. worked a charm.
Old 03-16-2019, 09:46 AM
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Thank you for your reply. I am having trouble pressing out the ball joint as the ball joint press won't go any further. Getting the control arm/spring control arm off the ball joint is no problem. Just having trouble pressing out the ball joint out of the knuckle.
Old 03-16-2019, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Tek.To
Thank you for your reply. I am having trouble pressing out the ball joint as the ball joint press won't go any further. Getting the control arm/spring control arm off the ball joint is no problem. Just having trouble pressing out the ball joint out of the knuckle.
yeah mine was in there really good, I finally popped after what seemed forever (and shot me right in the chest when it did)
Old 03-16-2019, 12:33 PM
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What tool did you use? Did you use a generic ball joint press or a specialty tool made for W211's?

Thanks
Old 03-16-2019, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Tek.To
What tool did you use? Did you use a generic ball joint press or a specialty tool made for W211's?

Thanks
just a generic one, the one I linked to.

that was what I saw used in the one tutorial I read (Pelican Parts maybe?)

it seemed it kept turning without moving, but once it went, it was impressive.
Old 03-16-2019, 01:40 PM
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Thanks for you reply, but the one you linked to, is a ball joint separator, which separates the control arm from the ball joint. I was inquiring about pressing out the actual ball joint itself. I keep turning, but it has reached a terminal force when it just won't budge. If I try to turn it more, the silver c clamp turns with it.....
Old 03-16-2019, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Tek.To
Thanks for you reply, but the one you linked to, is a ball joint separator, which separates the control arm from the ball joint. I was inquiring about pressing out the actual ball joint itself. I keep turning, but it has reached a terminal force when it just won't budge. If I try to turn it more, the silver c clamp turns with it.....
I used 1 tool for every one on mine. maybe a pic of what you are working on to explain? maybe I am misunderstanding. It is the lower ball joint with the press fit shaft and dowel pin on one side and just ball joint on the other?
Old 03-16-2019, 02:19 PM
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I used this

and my Milwaukee impact
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263838613519

Last edited by tjts1; 03-16-2019 at 02:22 PM.
Old 03-16-2019, 03:37 PM
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Thanks! Is that set-up how you pressed out or pressed in the ball joint?

This is the ball joint I am talking about:

Old 03-16-2019, 03:49 PM
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Yes that ball joint. I both pressed it out and back in. The tool comes with several different size adapters. You'll have to figure out how to use them. Make sure to heavily Grease the screw on the C clamp and I had to use an impact gun to make it work. It takes a lot of force, more than I could apply with my hands.
Old 03-16-2019, 05:05 PM
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There were three rings right? When pressing them out, did you use the small, medium or large ring? I keep trying with the medium ring.....
Old 03-16-2019, 05:16 PM
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I don't remember.
Old 03-16-2019, 05:18 PM
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Did you disconnect the upper control arm?
Old 03-16-2019, 05:19 PM
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No I let the spindle hang from the upper control arm.
Old 03-17-2019, 07:42 AM
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13 s212 63 p30. 03 s55amg
When this happened to me

It was that I was trying with the adapter that looked like it fit correctly but in fact did not. I rounded the large bolt in the c clamp, really struggled. I wound up using the one adapter that seemed slightly too large and not well seated and it came right out. The adapter Has to sit around/ outside the lip of the ball joint and touching the arm so that when you press from below the lip of the joint does not get stuck on the adapter. The top adapter effectively is the catch for the joint.

If the lip gets stuck on the adapter you will never be able to remove it. I hope this helps.

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