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I was driving down the highway and got a message saying "stop car too low". No idea what happened so i had it towed back home.
The front left side cannot raise now. When i turn on the car it says car raising and i can see it trying to raise but falls back down after about 1 cm. Theres also a soft hissing noise at wheel well. I am wondering, apart from strut failure, is it possible there could be another issue not related to bladder failure?
i swapped out the front pair of struts myself and i noticed that the passenger side is about 1 inch lower than the other side. is there some sort of calibration to be done after the swap?
i swapped out the front pair of struts myself and i noticed that the passenger side is about 1 inch lower than the other side. is there some sort of calibration to be done after the swap?
Yes, you can calibrate using STAR. I had to recalibrate my suspension after installing Arnotts on all four corners. Rear was too low and the right front was lower than the left front. Took me about an hour to calibrate. Or you can let the dealer do it.
'94 NSX,'99 NSX Z,'12 C63 Black Series (Prior: '07 E63, '08 CLK63 Black Series,'14 E63-S & 16 C63-S)
Almost the same battle with mine, but I do not hear any hissing. I brought the car home from the Mercedes dealer from another repair, parked it, and then saw this the next day. The dash indicates that the car is raising, but I do not hear anything, and the car is just sitting like this.
the compressor is pretty quiet. its under the drivers side headlight. you can see it from the bumper vents. do you have any dash alerts? if your compressor was faulty you will see one.
I can attest to this fact, as I never hear the air compressor when my car is raising. I will say this, my car has squatted from day one after several days of sitting. But will raise back up to ride height after the car is restarted.
But your issue is different as the car will not raise to ride height. I would say that you have a tear on your bellows, if the car starts to rise then stops, as the air is escaping.
Looks like your valve block might be bad. Or its leaking air through the air compressor.
I havent gotten around to calibrating my car with star yet but i noticed that the strut that i swapped out is still dropping. Im suspecting that my valve control block has also gone bad. Does anyone know if there is any way to test it for leaks?
Originally Posted by Meeyatch1
Almost the same battle with mine, but I do not hear any hissing. I brought the car home from the Mercedes dealer from another repair, parked it, and then saw this the next day. The dash indicates that the car is raining, but I do not hear anything, and the car is just sitting like this.
did you try the soapy water test? just by spraying or wiping it at all connections, then the lines themselves; that would be a start to find the leak.
ive changed the old lines for the front struts as the old ones were brittle and one of them shattered. ive also dont the soapy water test on the front strut lines and the lines going to the valve block, no bueno.
'94 NSX,'99 NSX Z,'12 C63 Black Series (Prior: '07 E63, '08 CLK63 Black Series,'14 E63-S & 16 C63-S)
Originally Posted by hachiroku
the compressor is pretty quiet. its under the drivers side headlight. you can see it from the bumper vents. do you have any dash alerts? if your compressor was faulty you will see one.
No dash alerts. It just tells me that the car is rising on the dash, but no rising happens. I took off the under tray over the weekend and could hear the compressor running, and feel it heating up, but could not locate the valve block to check that out. So I am stuck on how to proceed.
This happened to me were the car was sitting and had a malfunction for it to raise. It was a wire which my mechanic told me is common that plugs into your air compressor. As these cars age the wire just tears right before the plug. I changed my pump anyway even though after we repaired the wire it worked fine, I didn't want to come back a few months down the road or another year replacing the pump. I had already bought a new pump thinking that's what it was.
have you had all computers scanned for faults? if not make sure you use something high end and ideally STAR/DAS. many of the older or cheaper scanners cannot correctly queue the modules and receive faults. even warning faults should appear, but not necessarily on your dash.
ive changed the old lines for the front struts as the old ones were brittle and one of them shattered. ive also dont the soapy water test on the front strut lines and the lines going to the valve block, no bueno.
you really need to do a pump test before chasing other things.
most of the time the pump goes faulty due to a being overworked when a strut is failing and then finally goes completely
I swapped out the valve block and the front struts have stopped leaking but the passenger side is still abit lower than the drivers. No biggie but now the rear seems to be going down intermittently... also i am getting a airmatic malfunction warning. I got someone to scan the system and it threw every possible airmatic code it looks like! I am scratching my head now, is my airmatic control module faulty??
sorry my friends obd reader is in chinese, but id imagine the codes are universal.
Looks like your valve block might be bad. Or its leaking air through the air compressor.
I havent gotten around to calibrating my car with star yet but i noticed that the strut that i swapped out is still dropping. Im suspecting that my valve control block has also gone bad. Does anyone know if there is any way to test it for leaks?
Can you tell me where is the Valve Block is located so I can replace it..
Just a heads up, these air distribution blocks due leak air as they age. So, if you replaced both front struts, rear bags and compressor but still have a leak, it's most likely the distribution block.
04-24-2019, 08:02 AM
