Ride92

Hey peeps, looking on some advice on what brake pads to pick up for my wife’s GLE350 4matic. She’s at about 40,000miles and the dash is saying check pad wear. Any brands to avoid? Centrec, powerstop, Raybestos, Wagner, all brands I’ve seen? also, the rotors look pretty decent so I wasn’t going to replace them, bad idea? Help me out! Thanks.

chassis

Interested to read about the pad recommendations. My 2017 is at 20k miles.

In this era, I look at rotors as disposable with brake pads. Using rotors for a second set of pads will likely result in vibrations before the second set of pads is consumed. I changed rotors with pads on a recent model Touareg and was always satisfied with the braking performance for 238k miles.

SUV John

I agree with changing rotors with pads, but it never used to be as "mandatory" as it is these days. I used to change rotors roughly every other pad change, but these days the rotors seem to get very scored with grooves in them that will only lead to shortened pad life. I've got almost 50,000 miles on my 2016 GLE 350 and while they seem to be wearing good, the scoring on the rotors could take its toll before the end of the year even though there should be serviceable pad life left.

RHeller1

I put in Raybestos rotors and their "European rated" brake pads. No complaints so far

Ride92

Where did you buy said rotors and pads? Looking for a good source for these parts. Kinda New to the MB world so I don't know the best sites to get the parts at.

Also the vehicle is due for the BO service, as far as I can tell it's an oil change and filters, air and cabin. Also says change brake fluid. Is that something that is nessasary at 40K? Dealer wants $600+ to do the work.

RHeller1

I purchased my stuff at Rock Auto.

Qvae

I wouldn't recommend anyone follow this advice of changing rotors with pads. If you need to change rotors that often because of the ride, you are simply buying crap rotors. I drive hard where you can smell my pads burning after a good run and I go through three....maybe four pads before I need to change rotors, and I change them before they start wobbling while braking. Buy good product and it will last...and no that doesn't mean OEM or the most expensive. BUT, if you have the money to burn, do your thing.

chassis

Qvae, there are different experiences on this. Hard driving, as you mentioned, is a different use case in terms of the number of brake pads per mile that are consumed. Replacing rotors with pads, under hard driving, would be very expensive and add to the vehicle's operating costs. How many miles are you getting from your rotors, on average, over the last 2 or 3 rotor changes you have done?

BACnMercedes

I must drive horrible. I’m at 58k and on my 4 set.

Kein Ersatz

Rotors are a wear item, but typically not 1 to 1 on pads. Usually 2mm of wear is the limit (unless to the edge cracks are found) for rotors and 5mm (not counting pad backing plat) left on pads. Heat transfer to brake fluid is the key factor when looking at pad thickness limits. If DIY brake jobs, then a micrometer (an thickness specs) for measuring rotor and pad thickness is a good tool to have, along with a brake fluid bleed kit. Changing out rotors with pads is not a problem just possibly spending monies you do not need to spend, but who can put a price on piece of mind. Also consider brake fluid age (it is a complete system tires-pads-rotors-calipers-fluid), flush every few of years or with rotor change is a good rule of thumb. Moisture (H20) and brake systems are not a good comb over time or when you need brakes the most. YMMV.

Ride92

Had the Car in for some warranty work and they told me the rear pads were about 2-3mm left. The rear sensor has tripped and giving me a warning on the dash about pad wear. I'll have to inspect the rotors and see what condition they are in. As far as brake fluid, the car has 40K on it and it's my wife car, she is not and aggressive driver at all. Do you think I should be replacing fluid at this time? I checked rock auto and they don't have raybestos brakes listed anymore. Several sets from powerstop. If I have to replace all four corners I was thinking of going with the powerstop coated rotors and the ceramic brake pads.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...353926&jsn=469

Kein Ersatz

Age more than miles is the factor for brake fluid (on all autos), as it absorbs H2O over time, varies by climate. Many Manufactures recommend 2 years, but many owners go many years beyond that w/o changing. The issues is water boils, that leads to soft pedal and decreased braking under hard braking (accident avoidance, towing down hill, etc.), under normal driving rare to get fluid so hot that H2O vaporizes, but when you need it the most it old fluid (w/ H2O) may let you down. Next best is at least to bleed out old fluid from calipers and top off supply reservoir. Most fluid/heat impact is in calipers.

Not vey expensive fluid (quality under $20), it is more the labor effort/charge to flush out the old fluid (and not let air in).

chassis

I have driven nearly 1 million miles on several vehicles without replacing brake fluid. My GLE350 has its brake fluid replaced a month ago. It was slightly noticeable, in a firmer pedal. It’s nice, in a robust and technically oriented German way, but not strictly necessary.

Kein Ersatz

1-M miles on the same brake fluid / auto? Otherwise if 1M on multiple vehicles, then you have driven on multiple new (from the factory) brake fluid "cycles". I know of multiple drivers who went "almost" 100k on the factory oil and filter too. Each to their own, make knowledgeable decisions on brake MTCE. Break fluid is not a "closed system", it is manufactured to be serviced/bled/refilled for a reason. When to service it is the question, simple risk reward payoff. Ignore it at your, passengers, and other driver's peril. Many CPO manufacture programs will do a brake flush before offering the auto with CPO warranty. YMMV.

chassis

200k+ miles on several vehicles, totaling nearly a million miles. No brake fluid replacement, except for the M-B GLE350. It's nice, and not strictly required.

RHeller1

Rock Auto still has them. Part number SP1630EUH and SP1629EUH for the pads.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...brake+pad,1684

mbzgle

Interesting approach.
Even cheaper rotors can hold 3-4 pads set without resurfacing...

Mcar04

I have a 2018 E 300 4 matic. 65k miles. Have replaced rotors twice because of high speed braking vibration. Changed to ceramic pads and I definitely get more miles before vibration starts. What's with MB rotors? Seem to be warping because they're still smooth but vibrate at high speed braking. 65 mph or more. As soon as I install new rotors vibration goes away. Anyone else experiencing this?

amusa

I have a 2013 Subaru with 115k miles. Never change the brake fluid. I found one of the front calipers seize. I recommend getting the brake fluid change.

I stick with OEM. If you want to save money get Zimmerman rotors, Akebono brake pads, Brake Sensor stick with OEM.

amusa

If you have the front face rotors if you can put some AMG rotors (If it will fit) I highly recommend it. My old CLK500 I was replacing rotors/pads/sensor every 20-30k miles. Until I swap out the rotors with CLK55 AMG rotors. I was getting 60-80k miles after the swap. With the Cross drilled rotors it's venting better to release heat then the flat face rotors.

SUV John

Make sure you're not riding the brake pedal or the calipers are not hanging up to generate excess heat to warp the rotors. Replacing rotors removes the warped rotor to restore smooth braking so no surprise there.
Consider going to drilled and slotted rotors (towing grade are meant to deal with extreme braking conditions too).
I am completely satisfied and can recommend Powerstop rotors (drilled and slotted) and carbon-fiber ceramic pads I have put on the rear of my GLE350. The front rotors and pads are in the future and have life left on them. Check out Rockauto.com.

Bo$$

What should one expect to pay from the Dealer on Front Brakes and Rotors? I have a 2017 GLE 4MATIC. I understand its more than an INDY but there is being taken for a ride and there is highway robbery.

I bought my MB CPO'd with 46,000 miles on it I'm at 54,500 and my Brake Pad light went on. (the CPO guide says the tires /brakes has to be 50% life or more) (the selling dealer replaced the rear brakes and pads just before I purchased it, although my home dealer could find no record of it in the star system, I have the receipt from them in case there is an issue but I am assuming it's the front brakes that need replacing) With that being said I am kinda suspect as to the front brakes actually being 50% or more when I bought the vehicle.

I brought it into my home dealer a few months later (just before 50K) for some other warranty work when I was told the car was in perfect shape no work needed and that the CPO checklist matched up to what they inspected on the car.

This dealer has been infamous for recommending brake work to be done a little earlier than it should be but said the car was in no need of any basic wear tear work. So I'm thinking wow okay great! Wrong.

So it was much to my surprise when the brake pad warning light came on 4,000 miles later. I've had 4 Mercedes and never have I had a warning light come on, because I have the dealer change them around 2-3MM.

Wondering if I have any recourse against the CPO selling dealer or if Corporate would do a good will gesture. Car has been at my local dealer for 2 days (I had to wait 3 weeks to get an appt. with loaner) but I'm guessing their busy because they haven't called me yet. ( I explained this exact situation to them that I really shouldn't be held liable if the car needs brakes so soon) I drive very conservatively, mostly highway driving in very little traffic so it's not like I'm driving like a F1 driver in NYC.

I played this game with my dealership (the cost of brake replacement) about 2 years ago on my W204. Between local tri-state dealers the difference in price was nearly $1,000 and had to play the price matching game with written quotes (took 1/2 of my day). Was wondering if W204 and W166 are similar costs or because its an SUV its substantially more?

chassis

I did my rear brakes for about $400 in parts (pads, rotors, bolts) with my DIY labor. Front brakes will be a bit more due to larger pads and rotors. 2 hours dealer labor in the $400-$500 range and $1000 for the front axle is believable.

Bo$$

Data Point: NJ Dealer came back at $1,335 for Front Brakes and Rotors. Thought that on a CPO'd vehicle that didn't even make it's first service without the brake pad light coming on was inexcusable and escalated it with corporate who is going to see about doing a Good Will gesture. (said to give it 24 hours) What I had to do last time after getting such a wild quote from the home dealer was call 4 other dealers and get quotes which brought things down significantly but not without wasting a 1/2 day. Shame on my home dealer which I've serviced 4 vehicles with over the past 12 years. But hopefully the good will gesture puts that to bed.

They said I was on my own in regards to the tires wear and tear. Was at 8/32 when purchased at 3/32 now. 9,000 miles at that rating is inexcusable but I am reading on some of the other threads the tires I have on it are horrific and reports of people getting 15,000 miles from brand new to warning bars on them is the norm. The 2 others were put on when I bought the car, so I am curious to see what measurement they are at now after only 9,000 miles. (Will report back)

Pirelli Scorpion Verde 265-45R20. Was looking at my vehicles VMI report and it looks like they've been replaced 3 times in the 45,000 miles of ownership before my coming along.

So that really isn't on the dealer but will not replace with them with the same tire based on that info. Will look to go with Michelins instead. (45,000 mile guarantee) Also the dealers are including 24 month road hazard and $75 off sets of 2 so it made it fairly competitive with tirerack.

threeMBs

Outrageous! I would strongly suggest to buy Zimmermann rotors from fcpeuro.com (life time free replacement) or Brembo rotors from brembousa.com (or for a better price for Brembos from newparts.com). Both are equivalent to OEM MB rotors. For pads you could purchase non-OEM from the same outlets or OEM from eBay Mercedes on-line dealers. Then I would ask them what is the labor cost (provided they are willing to install parts not purchased from them). Install price should be $250 to $350 (probably the later considering the original quote). I would ask the same question of different dealers. It will save you at least 1/2 to 3/5.