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Stuck glovebox

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Old Feb 15, 2024 | 05:59 PM
  #1  
jeiholzer's Avatar
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From: Christiansburg, VA
2014 C250 Sport class
Question Stuck glovebox

In my 2014 c250 (w204) the right side of the glovebox is stuck. I managed to get it open and can see that the latch that sticks out is not retracting enough to open it. In fact it barely retracts at all. Is there something I can do or do I have simply have to replace the whole glovebox?
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Old Feb 15, 2024 | 06:59 PM
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W204 2010 C300 4matic Sport M272
I would take it apart and look for the problem. I see they sell replacement latches, the part around the key, if that happens to be the broken part.


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Old Feb 15, 2024 | 10:16 PM
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2013 C300 ,2014 C300 ,2015 GLK 350
My glove box on 2014 W204 Sport Sedan was sticking, and it took force to open on right side of box. I cannot find any posts with someone with this issue, as normally the issue is a glove box that will not open at all. I was concerned that if I allowed this to worsen, I would one day not be able to open the glove box. Once in that situation, posts seem to point to destroying the box to break in and replace it.

PROBLEM: Dual plastic strikers on each side of the glove box recess into the glove box lid to "release" the box from the holes in the glove box itself that the strikers sit in when closed. When pulling the latch, the right side plastic striker pin was not fully retracting, and the striker edge was staying inside the hole (like a door lock that is not coming out of the hole in the door jam). This spring mechanism is sealed inside the glove box door itself, so you cannot access it to fix whatever spring is no longer fully pulling to the degree needed.

SOLUTION (took about 15 minutes): I used a metal file to remove some plastic on the side that was sticking. It was that, or replace the glove box, so removing some plastic seemed like a reasonable option, and it worked very well.

On the side that was sticking, I used a concave metal file to soften the inside sharp edge of the hole itself that holds the plastic striker pin that sits inside that hole when the glove box is closed. This way the striker does not have to retract as far to overcome that edge. I also rounded the edge of the plastic wedge that sits in that hole to keep the door closed. Basically, rounding the wedge and removing some plastic from the edge of the hole it sits in now allows the door to open normally, but still stays closed because I took off JUST enough to overcome the problem. You would never know I modified it operationally.

More details:
The glove box normally opens stays in place from two large wedge shaped plastic strikers (on right and left end of glove box) that slide into matching holes on each side of the glove box. Much like the strikers on a house door lock that are beveled on one side and flat on the other, and the striker keeps your door locked by staying inside the opposite hole in the door jamb. Fully open your glove box, and you can see the plastic wedges recess into the door itself when you active the latch.

Since these parts are plastic, I was able modify these areas. It did not take much filing, but takes a very course metal file to remove the plastic well. The plastic wedge still recesses, but not fully, so I just took off enough of the wedge to allow it to full come out of the hole and unlock when needed. The plastic wedge is solid, so you won't ruin it when filing it down. By beveling the opposite way on the pin, it also gives me the option of pulling it open with force if needed if the recessing pin ever just decides to stop recessing at all. Similar to when you use a credit card to open a lock that is beveled on the same side you are sliding the credit card... the newly beveled side (that is normally not beveled at all) can just be pulled open with some force in a pinch if needed if my glove box latch ever fails.

Anyway, this fix took about 15 minutes, and I even used a finer file to go over the course filing to look smooth, and you would likely not know I did anything even if you looked at the pin now. I was just trying to avoid the scenario of having to destroy or remove the box itself and replace if the situation got worse.

I have two W204 sedans (2013 and 2014) and they have been bullet proof in terms of reliability. Happy to have such a minor issue to solve on one of them.
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Old Jun 16, 2024 | 12:47 PM
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2014 Mercedes-Benz C350 4matic coupe
Originally Posted by jeiholzer
In my 2014 c250 (w204) the right side of the glovebox is stuck. I managed to get it open and can see that the latch that sticks out is not retracting enough to open it. In fact it barely retracts at all. Is there something I can do or do I have simply have to replace the whole glovebox?

How did you get yours open? I’m having the same issue and I would rather not force the glovebox open and potentially break something else.
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Old Jun 16, 2024 | 03:53 PM
  #5  
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From: Christiansburg, VA
2014 C250 Sport class
Originally Posted by AMGLiam
How did you get yours open? I’m having the same issue and I would rather not force the glovebox open and potentially break something else.
I bought a whole new glovebox and replaced it. But to get it open I could get the left side to open a little. Then I was able to pull down and to the left enough to get it to open.
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Old Jun 16, 2024 | 07:08 PM
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From: MA Coast
W204 2010 C300 4matic Sport M272
I was looking at my glove box and have an idea if the right side latch isnt working, remove the trim on the side and drill a small hole in the plastic, push a smaller drill bit thru the hole and it will push the latch open. No idea how to get the left side open though. The glove box seems pretty secure.

I put a red circle where the latch is seated when closed.






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Old Oct 29, 2024 | 05:43 PM
  #7  
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Stuck Glovebox - dual strike not retracting

Originally Posted by y2kz3
My glove box on 2014 W204 Sport Sedan was sticking, and it took force to open on right side of box. I cannot find any posts with someone with this issue, as normally the issue is a glove box that will not open at all. I was concerned that if I allowed this to worsen, I would one day not be able to open the glove box. Once in that situation, posts seem to point to destroying the box to break in and replace it.

PROBLEM: Dual plastic strikers on each side of the glove box recess into the glove box lid to "release" the box from the holes in the glove box itself that the strikers sit in when closed. When pulling the latch, the right side plastic striker pin was not fully retracting, and the striker edge was staying inside the hole (like a door lock that is not coming out of the hole in the door jam). This spring mechanism is sealed inside the glove box door itself, so you cannot access it to fix whatever spring is no longer fully pulling to the degree needed.

SOLUTION (took about 15 minutes): I used a metal file to remove some plastic on the side that was sticking. It was that, or replace the glove box, so removing some plastic seemed like a reasonable option, and it worked very well.

On the side that was sticking, I used a concave metal file to soften the inside sharp edge of the hole itself that holds the plastic striker pin that sits inside that hole when the glove box is closed. This way the striker does not have to retract as far to overcome that edge. I also rounded the edge of the plastic wedge that sits in that hole to keep the door closed. Basically, rounding the wedge and removing some plastic from the edge of the hole it sits in now allows the door to open normally, but still stays closed because I took off JUST enough to overcome the problem. You would never know I modified it operationally.

More details:
The glove box normally opens stays in place from two large wedge shaped plastic strikers (on right and left end of glove box) that slide into matching holes on each side of the glove box. Much like the strikers on a house door lock that are beveled on one side and flat on the other, and the striker keeps your door locked by staying inside the opposite hole in the door jamb. Fully open your glove box, and you can see the plastic wedges recess into the door itself when you active the latch.

Since these parts are plastic, I was able modify these areas. It did not take much filing, but takes a very course metal file to remove the plastic well. The plastic wedge still recesses, but not fully, so I just took off enough of the wedge to allow it to full come out of the hole and unlock when needed. The plastic wedge is solid, so you won't ruin it when filing it down. By beveling the opposite way on the pin, it also gives me the option of pulling it open with force if needed if the recessing pin ever just decides to stop recessing at all. Similar to when you use a credit card to open a lock that is beveled on the same side you are sliding the credit card... the newly beveled side (that is normally not beveled at all) can just be pulled open with some force in a pinch if needed if my glove box latch ever fails.

Anyway, this fix took about 15 minutes, and I even used a finer file to go over the course filing to look smooth, and you would likely not know I did anything even if you looked at the pin now. I was just trying to avoid the scenario of having to destroy or remove the box itself and replace if the situation got worse.

I have two W204 sedans (2013 and 2014) and they have been bullet proof in terms of reliability. Happy to have such a minor issue to solve on one of them.

Just reposting these instructions to bump them up in SEO… the problem/solution detail from the author is fantastic, clear, and worked like a charm. A $4 metal file from the hardware store and 10 minutes of my time… resolved beautifully. THANK YOU @y2kz3

Last edited by SkiBumAZ; Oct 29, 2024 at 05:44 PM.
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Old Jun 13, 2026 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SkiBumAZ
Just reposting these instructions to bump them up in SEO… the problem/solution detail from the author is fantastic, clear, and worked like a charm. A $4 metal file from the hardware store and 10 minutes of my time… resolved beautifully. THANK YOU @y2kz3
I used a Dremel with a fine grinder, probably removed 1mm of plastic, smoothed it with sand paper. Opens as it should now. Unfortunately, the sticking caused the latch to break. I followed Fred Smiths YouTube video as a guide, but latch is fixed now and opening as expected.
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