Stuck glovebox
PROBLEM: Dual plastic strikers on each side of the glove box recess into the glove box lid to "release" the box from the holes in the glove box itself that the strikers sit in when closed. When pulling the latch, the right side plastic striker pin was not fully retracting, and the striker edge was staying inside the hole (like a door lock that is not coming out of the hole in the door jam). This spring mechanism is sealed inside the glove box door itself, so you cannot access it to fix whatever spring is no longer fully pulling to the degree needed.
SOLUTION (took about 15 minutes): I used a metal file to remove some plastic on the side that was sticking. It was that, or replace the glove box, so removing some plastic seemed like a reasonable option, and it worked very well.
On the side that was sticking, I used a concave metal file to soften the inside sharp edge of the hole itself that holds the plastic striker pin that sits inside that hole when the glove box is closed. This way the striker does not have to retract as far to overcome that edge. I also rounded the edge of the plastic wedge that sits in that hole to keep the door closed. Basically, rounding the wedge and removing some plastic from the edge of the hole it sits in now allows the door to open normally, but still stays closed because I took off JUST enough to overcome the problem. You would never know I modified it operationally.
More details:
The glove box normally opens stays in place from two large wedge shaped plastic strikers (on right and left end of glove box) that slide into matching holes on each side of the glove box. Much like the strikers on a house door lock that are beveled on one side and flat on the other, and the striker keeps your door locked by staying inside the opposite hole in the door jamb. Fully open your glove box, and you can see the plastic wedges recess into the door itself when you active the latch.
Since these parts are plastic, I was able modify these areas. It did not take much filing, but takes a very course metal file to remove the plastic well. The plastic wedge still recesses, but not fully, so I just took off enough of the wedge to allow it to full come out of the hole and unlock when needed. The plastic wedge is solid, so you won't ruin it when filing it down. By beveling the opposite way on the pin, it also gives me the option of pulling it open with force if needed if the recessing pin ever just decides to stop recessing at all. Similar to when you use a credit card to open a lock that is beveled on the same side you are sliding the credit card... the newly beveled side (that is normally not beveled at all) can just be pulled open with some force in a pinch if needed if my glove box latch ever fails.
Anyway, this fix took about 15 minutes, and I even used a finer file to go over the course filing to look smooth, and you would likely not know I did anything even if you looked at the pin now. I was just trying to avoid the scenario of having to destroy or remove the box itself and replace if the situation got worse.
I have two W204 sedans (2013 and 2014) and they have been bullet proof in terms of reliability. Happy to have such a minor issue to solve on one of them.
How did you get yours open? I’m having the same issue and I would rather not force the glovebox open and potentially break something else.




I put a red circle where the latch is seated when closed.
PROBLEM: Dual plastic strikers on each side of the glove box recess into the glove box lid to "release" the box from the holes in the glove box itself that the strikers sit in when closed. When pulling the latch, the right side plastic striker pin was not fully retracting, and the striker edge was staying inside the hole (like a door lock that is not coming out of the hole in the door jam). This spring mechanism is sealed inside the glove box door itself, so you cannot access it to fix whatever spring is no longer fully pulling to the degree needed.
SOLUTION (took about 15 minutes): I used a metal file to remove some plastic on the side that was sticking. It was that, or replace the glove box, so removing some plastic seemed like a reasonable option, and it worked very well.
On the side that was sticking, I used a concave metal file to soften the inside sharp edge of the hole itself that holds the plastic striker pin that sits inside that hole when the glove box is closed. This way the striker does not have to retract as far to overcome that edge. I also rounded the edge of the plastic wedge that sits in that hole to keep the door closed. Basically, rounding the wedge and removing some plastic from the edge of the hole it sits in now allows the door to open normally, but still stays closed because I took off JUST enough to overcome the problem. You would never know I modified it operationally.
More details:
The glove box normally opens stays in place from two large wedge shaped plastic strikers (on right and left end of glove box) that slide into matching holes on each side of the glove box. Much like the strikers on a house door lock that are beveled on one side and flat on the other, and the striker keeps your door locked by staying inside the opposite hole in the door jamb. Fully open your glove box, and you can see the plastic wedges recess into the door itself when you active the latch.
Since these parts are plastic, I was able modify these areas. It did not take much filing, but takes a very course metal file to remove the plastic well. The plastic wedge still recesses, but not fully, so I just took off enough of the wedge to allow it to full come out of the hole and unlock when needed. The plastic wedge is solid, so you won't ruin it when filing it down. By beveling the opposite way on the pin, it also gives me the option of pulling it open with force if needed if the recessing pin ever just decides to stop recessing at all. Similar to when you use a credit card to open a lock that is beveled on the same side you are sliding the credit card... the newly beveled side (that is normally not beveled at all) can just be pulled open with some force in a pinch if needed if my glove box latch ever fails.
Anyway, this fix took about 15 minutes, and I even used a finer file to go over the course filing to look smooth, and you would likely not know I did anything even if you looked at the pin now. I was just trying to avoid the scenario of having to destroy or remove the box itself and replace if the situation got worse.
I have two W204 sedans (2013 and 2014) and they have been bullet proof in terms of reliability. Happy to have such a minor issue to solve on one of them.
Just reposting these instructions to bump them up in SEO… the problem/solution detail from the author is fantastic, clear, and worked like a charm. A $4 metal file from the hardware store and 10 minutes of my time… resolved beautifully. THANK YOU @y2kz3
Last edited by SkiBumAZ; Oct 29, 2024 at 05:44 PM.
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