Good morning. Did an exhaustive search but can't find a fix. I had a leaky top latch cylinder and finally did the fix with the new O-ring kit. Took a bit but got it all back together and no leaks! Great. However now the roof won't full close, that is to say it seems closed but the cam (if the is the correct word) that activates the micro switch (right side of top) isn't being activated...I can manually depress the switch which triggers the last bit of window closing and allows me to open the trunk but it won't contact the switch on its own.

After closing the top it will indicate on the dash that the top is not fully closed. In addition when opening the top everything seems to go as planned but when the roof unlatches and starts to pull back it won't move more than an inch or 2, I then close the roof, activate the opening procedure again and it opens fin.

Hydraulic resevior is filled and holding the proper level.

Is there an adjustment to be made to get the switch to be contacted (activated)?

Thanks in advance!

 

It sounds like the new O-ring fix might have offset the alignment of the roof components, or there's a miscommunication within the roof's control circuit that's preventing the switch activation. The cam not reaching the micro switch suggests it could be slightly misaligned or obstructed, possibly due to wear or incomplete reassembly. Additionally, the hydraulic system might not be providing consistent pressure even if the reservoir is filled, which could cause intermittent movement issues when trying to open or close the roof. I would recommend checking the Convertible Top Control Module for fault codes, as it directly interacts with the hydraulic and electric systems managing the roof operation. A full system scanner like the youcanic would be ideal for this, as it can read multiple control modules including convertible top, unlike basic OBD2 scanners like the Innova 3100j, which are limited to engine diagnostics. If you discover no fault codes on your own, consider consulting a professional to ensure all mechanical and electrical connections are correctly aligned and functional. Have you had the chance to inspect whether all hydraulic lines and connections are securely fastened and not causing any leaks or pressure drops?

 

Thanks I may get the reader just to have but will fuss with the alignment as maybe when putting it back it got tweaked. Hoping (sounds bad to say) that someone else who did the same repair (there seem to be many of us) had a similar issue when everything was re assembled and has a fix.

 

Can you manually latch it with the Allen wrench?

 

Ok, so I ended up just bending the little arm of the passenger side micro switch so it now makes contact with the latch. Everything is working as it should now although the top is still bogging down when it pulls back about an inch but is remedied by closing and then re opening.

I took a look at the latch and tried to figure out why, after re installing the repaired cylinder, things were not lining up but could see where to make any adjustments. In any event so far to good.

I will leave the headliner off for a while longer to make sure no cylinder leaks and to verify the micro switch is good.

Thanks!