As the story goes, I left my car secured inside at a Tire Center overnight to have my summer tires installed and check the alignmemt in the start of the day.

Early afternoon they advised my car was completed with an alignment completed and an align steering angle reset.

Note: when I dropped off the car that evening I securely taped a note on the center of the steering wheel for both Front tires: 34 psi and rear tires: 33 psi.

So after driving away a few blocks I checked the tire pressure F:55 psi and F: 56 psi R: 51psi and R: 52 psi. Drove back and manager made the corrections. Also asked him why my engine was at full running temperature. He reviewed the video and " stated" the car was gone 10 minutes. The tech took a test ride to check the alignment. ??? I noticed the high tire temperature for a 10 minute ride?

Will I need to get the alignment done over as it was performed with all the tires way over inflated? Or any other advise will be appreciated on what to do or by just setting the correct tire will be fine?

 

I don’t think the tire pressure will make too crazy of a difference with your alignment. The tires are definitely over inflated. Guaranteed when they popped the tire on the bead they didn’t have a pressure gauge on it. So they let it pop wait 5-10 seconds and move to the next; that’s pretty common for your standard tire place

your ambient temps aren’t high enough to cause much of a temperature change however I definitely wouldn’t deflate tires after you’ve been driving on them. You deflate tires when they are cold. That’ll give you a proper reading of what is actually there

 

+1... Check your tire pressures again when the tires are cold. Letting air out while they are hot means that the pressures will go down another couple psi as they cool off. You probably want them at 34 psi front / 32 psi rear when they are cold (according to gas door sticker) ... So they will be at about 36 / 34 ish when they are hot.

I also don't think you need another alignment. The machines attach to the rims, not the tires. So they are ensuring the rim itself has the right toe-in. And unless you have aftermarket parts (like K-Mac bushings, or control arms), camber and caster can't be adjusted.

 

I know the alignment also goes off of the ride height but I doubt a couple mm will throw off the alignment enough to notice it driving

 

The machine doesn't really go off the ride height per se. And your "ride height" didn't really change... Let me explain.
Ride height can change alignment because of the physical attachment of the control arms to the steering knuckle and the chassis. Changes in alignment due to ride height really only take effect when the suspension arms move pretty high or pretty low due to the arc of movement of the components. But for your case the control arms should still be at their ideal / OEM height, basically parallel and perpendicular with the ground. The elevated tire pressures could raise the overall "body height" of the entire car very slightly because of the physical increase in diameter of the tire, but the suspension itself should stay at its normal height and therefore the arc of movement hasn't changed like it would if you put on lowering springs, for example.

 

Good Thread,

we can use it for to do this in OEM style.

Does someone know how to do ?
What says WIS ?

- weight in car needet ?
- half fuel tank needet ?
- other special instruktions ?

 

@C63s_Jack For daily driving, a standard alignment is all you need. What I mean by "standard" is just bring your car to the shop in the condition your car sits at any given time. They will do an alignment without the driver's weight in the car, and they will try to hit the middle of the OEM specifications for toe only (again, camber and caster can't be adjusted without aftermarket parts).

For the absolute top of the line alignment, you would want adjustable spring height LIKE THESE, and adjustable camber bushings LIKE THESE, then you would want the car weighted with it's normal load (half tank of gas), and the driver's weight in the seat. If your car is lowered you might also need a "bump steer kit" so the tie-rod ends can be adjusted to be parallel with the ground. Again, this is to minimize toe changes as the suspension travels through it's arc Here's a video on bump steer: . When you lower a car and don't adjust for bump steer, your tie rods are already further up in their arc of movement, and thus up and down movement exaggerates the toe more than it would with the tie-rods parallel to the ground.

For a more race-oriented alignment, you would first do a "corner balance" with 4 independent scales and adjust the spring height collars accordingly to get the sprung weight as evenly distributed as possible Here's a video showing a guy doing a corner balance on his Porsche ( ). Then perform a 4-wheel alignment to your preferred specs. If you're going this far, then I assume the owner would want custom camber and toe specs for their application. For example, a frequent autocross participant might want a little toe-out for quicker turn in, and a little more camber like -1.5 to -2.5 degrees.

Here's my scale set up when I performed "corner balancing" on my Saleen Mustang: