Driver side aft spark plug removal hell
Before I had ordered parts I had looked at the clearances and no freakin way I'd try doing this job with the manifold still on despite seeing folks post they've done it this way. For me, the passenger side was easy, of course. The driver's side was a pain, especially cyl 5 and 6 ...I marvel at the thought of anyone getting in there with the manifold still on! Sooo tight in there with the CPU, hoses, wiring looms; barely any room to see let alone for medium sized hands to work!!! Trying to get the dang coils off the plugs was a nightmare on 5 and 6 ...ended up with them breaking as it was nearly impossible to get a good hold of them to yank em.
Edward




I have even bought tools I planned on using but didnt end up needing so returned. Like when I replaced the engine coolant, I bought the vacuum kit but the coolant system ended up purging itself.
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- remove intake air duct driver side
- remove ECU from grommets & place ECU to the side. Make sure you get the ECU harness up and over the oil dipstick (keep connector attached, the cable lengths are long enough to do)
- remove aluminum bracket over cyl #5 for better access to #5 (middle plug, driver side)
- remove oil dipstick bracket retaining screw and move dipstick aside for extra working space for cyl. #6
- remove ign coil electrical connector for cyl #6 only for better access. No need for other cylinders. These can be challenging because connector housings get brittle with time. If the connector doesn't want to slide off, I squirt a tiny bit of silicone where the female and male connectors meet and let it penetrate in. Then tap gently (mini-"impact") with screw driver on female connector to break the connector free.
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