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Porcupine Battle Damage - Advice on front-end repairs
I've been driving a 2011 C300, Luxury, RWD for 5 years now, from 39k to 132k miles now. The car had the engine swapped at 78k after my old shop started the car with the oil drained. Since then it's been side swiped on both sides. So at this point, it's already a salvage title and I'm just looking to keep it drivable (preferably with AC).
A couple nights ago I just happened to change lanes right as a large porcupine was merging onto the interstate at low speed. I didn't have time to react. As it turns out, a 90mph impact with a porcupine is pretty dramatic. The coolant light was on instantly, but I maintained 80 until I got to the offramp. The temp gauge did sit at 120-125C for maybe 20 seconds in the final stretch. I was only a half mile from home, so once it cooled off I got home as quick as possible.
As you can see, the compressor and radiator took the brunt of it. I made the mistake of assuming the compressor had lost compression, and gave myself a most wonderful refrigerant shower while removing it -- oops. But otherwise no big snafus. My plan is to take a plastic welder to the bumper and insert a new grille to keep the replacement condenser and radiator protected. The fan shrouds tabs busted off as well, but were still there, so I will try to plastic weld those on as well.
Mostly what I'm posting for is to ask for advice on what I may be overlooking damage wise, and what to just let go as long as it's running. Since I've never had to work on this part of the car before, I'm unsure what it looked like before it got demolished.
Do I need to replace the undercarriage shielding or the passenger wheel well shielding? We used to just leave them off on older cars, but I'm unsure how much they affect airflow, cooling, and gas mileage on a newer car.
There was a rubber wind-guard or isolation piece between the condenser and the grille. It is broken in multiple places. Should I bother replacing it, or just sandwich the pieces back in and let them do what they can?
Do I need to replace the plastic rubber bumper looking piece on the front of the rail where the transmission mount sits (passenger side, second from last photo)? If so, does anyone know the part number or what to search for it by?
There is a sensor that was tucked in a plastic shroud underneath the transmission and condenser (last photo). It looks like the shroud is actually the Radiator Support Baffle - A2045050330,and I can't find it anywhere new. I'd love to go to a scrap yard to get it, but I live 50 miles from any and I'm currently lacking a working vehicle.I'm curious what other parts that baffle mounts to that are currently destroyed.
My big concerns right now is if everything will line up still, and what parts probably got obliterated that I'm not even sure where they go or what to order. The harness to the sensor between the fan shroud and the radiator was ripped apart, so I'm a little concerned that other leads in that loom may be damaged. I'm assuming once I have the compressor re-installed I should just keep the AC off and take it to a shop to get it charged.
Impact View - Front Impact View - Through Grille Impact View - Above Impact View - Passenger Wheel Well An angry message from The Porcupine Pile of most of the damaged parts Disassembled What is the little plastic bumper on the front of where the transmission mount sits? Does it need replaced? What sensor is this? I assume I'll have to replace the shroud that was holding it (A2045050330 - demolished)
The shroud 2045050330 can be found on ebay for $66.81/shipped The updated part# is 2045053330. Thats actually around the same price as my local MB dealer would charge but with pick-up not delivered.
I would replace everything that is damaged and cannot be reinstalled. I have spent alot of time on eBay just searching around and i'm sure you can find every part you need, Just search the part #'s and look for the cheapest price. There are tons of salvage W204's being parted out.
That sensor is B14 Outside temp sensor. You can reinstall it and see if it works. that temp is shown on the dash. it is used by the car for a few things, ac and climate control for one.
Can help you with part #'s if needed. Just list your vin and the part. Its late and my brain isnt working that well.
Awesome. Thank you for the updated part number. I had looked around but I had seen it called the "radiator support baffle", which wasn't coming up anywhere -- because it's named differently everywhere else it seems, haha. FCP Euro has it for $57 shipped.
Thank you for the sensor number as well. I had thought it was a temp sensor but where it was didn't make sense until you said that. If it's not working, I imagine it's broken wires rather than the sensor itself.
The VIN is WDDGF5EBXBR141523. I've already ordered the radiator, condenser, lower grille, and now the shroud and the fiberglass splash shield. I still need to figure out two parts. The first was the rubber isolation piece that tucks into the top of the radiator, and has two flaps that cover the sides -- I think I see a part number in one of my photos so I'll check it in the morning. The other is that plastic bumper looking thing in front of where the lower transmission mount sits (photo). I can't imagine this actually being a bumper, so either it is just capping the end to keep things out, or I'm assuming it's holding something in place, but I'm not sure what it's called to even search for a part number. If I don't hear from anyone I'll see if the opposite side has a part number on it tomorrow.
Originally Posted by TimC300
The shroud 2045050330 can be found on ebay for $66.81/shipped The updated part# is 2045053330. Thats actually around the same price as my local MB dealer would charge but with pick-up not delivered.
I would replace everything that is damaged and cannot be reinstalled. I have spent alot of time on eBay just searching around and i'm sure you can find every part you need, Just search the part #'s and look for the cheapest price. There are tons of salvage W204's being parted out.
That sensor is B14 Outside temp sensor. You can reinstall it and see if it works. that temp is shown on the dash. it is used by the car for a few things, ac and climate control for one.
Can help you with part #'s if needed. Just list your vin and the part. Its late and my brain isnt working that well.
Normally, animal collision is considered a COMPREHENSIVE claim and not a COLLISION claim. Most insurances have a lower comprehensive deductible. Why didn’t you file an insurance claim, or do you only carry liability?
The car was totaled out by insurance after someone side swiped me in 2024. But it also got swiped on the other side the year prior, no insurance claim, and had an engine swap due to service tech neglect at a mechanic shop. So it isn't worth paying $100/month extra, for a car worth $2500. Plus I usually have a $1000 deductible, so filing a claim would make that $2200 over the last year to keep a $2500 car. The peace of mind is worth something to many, but for me, it's more frugal financially to just fix it myself in the off chance something like this happens -- or alternately, buying a used beater if it's not repairable.
Originally Posted by PotatoHeadII
Normally, animal collision is considered a COMPREHENSIVE claim and not a COLLISION claim. Most insurances have a lower comprehensive deductible. Why didn’t you file an insurance claim, or do you only carry liability?
The car was totaled out by insurance after someone side swiped me in 2024. But it also got swiped on the other side the year prior, no insurance claim, and had an engine swap due to service tech neglect at a mechanic shop. So it isn't worth paying $100/month extra, for a car worth $2500. Plus I usually have a $1000 deductible, so filing a claim would make that $2200 over the last year to keep a $2500 car. The peace of mind is worth something to many, but for me, it's more frugal financially to just fix it myself in the off chance something like this happens -- or alternately, buying a used beater if it's not repairable.
Using your vin it looks like its just a plastic end cap for the front subframe.
Not really sure the purpose if it just blocks the opening of if it adds support for the radiator. New from the MB dealer its over $100. Used on ebay found one for $35.
I'm not in the habit of making claims for trivial aesthetic damage. I like my cars to look nice, but outside of this car I have rarely had more than a door ding. This one has really gotten the short end of the stick. This was before and after it got side swiped by an old lady who just got a new car with as dark of tint as mine that she couldn't see out of. Since her insurance paid out $6700 for me to keep it as salvaged, it made sense to just keep driving it as is.
Awesome. Thank you again for the help. I think based on the price, I'm going to try and deal without that one. It sounds like it's just to deflect impact energy.
I did manage to find the rubber isolation part 2045050530 -- FCP has it for $29, as well as a decent price on Pentosin 134 FE. I'm assuming I'll need some to top the transmission off after replacing the radiator? But I'm a little concerned -- my cars mfg date is 08/10, which should mean MB 236.15, which I thought was blue, but I'm pretty sure what came out of the lines was red. The shop that blew up my motor put the wrong fluids in everything. The antifreeze was murky brown. The power steering was non-synthetic. And of course I hadn't seen the transmission fluid before, but I wouldn't be surprised if they put the wrong spec in.
I also found the part for the bumper reinforcement, half of which is missing. 2048852765 .. Sadly another one of those parts that there's no cheap options.
I think that narrows down all the parts I need except the wiring harness, which I'm not opposed to making a custom harness if it comes to it.
Originally Posted by TimC300
Using your vin it looks like its just a plastic end cap for the front subframe.
Not really sure the purpose if it just blocks the opening of if it adds support for the radiator. New from the MB dealer its over $100. Used on ebay found one for $35.
Can test the temp sensor wiring by unhooking the sensor and use a multimeter to check for voltage at the connector. Should be seeing around 12v with the key turned and dash display on. Not really sure how to test the sensor itself, maybe set the multimeter to continuity and probe the two pins on the sensor. Should have continuity, circuit should not be broken.
Should be a part # stamped on the sensor. Mercedes is good with part #'s on every part.
Looking up your vin you absolutely have the transmission A89 Reduced Friction option code. The transmission fluid should be the 236.15 which is blue. From my understanding the blue fluid is thinner than the earlier red fluid, so putting red fluid in that transmission isnt the best thing to do. May want to pull the pan and replace the transmission filter while you are at it. The transmission pan bolts should be replaced with new bolts if the pan is removed.
The power steering fluid should be Pentosin CHF 11S. Commonly available locally. New fluid is greenish and my power steering fluid was looking brownish so i'll suction out as much as I can from the reservoir and fill with new fluid. I do this once a day, or when I remember to do it until I use up the container. Its not as good as a complete flush but it seems to get the fluid looking newer. But in my case I think the correct fluid is already in there anyways.
Thank you again. I saved the link to the diagrams. The prices are more tolerable if you buying OEM from FCPEuro, but I can't even afford that with all this damage -- so everything is cheap generic parts and just crossing my fingers nothing goes awry. Even still, I'm already looking at around $550 by the time I get the last pieces, assuming I just top off the transmission with red for now, rather than a full flush. I would've liked to switch it out a couple years ago, but at this point it's had red in it for at least 3 years, maybe before that. The transmission has always lurched once in a while during downshifts. It's not frequent, but it's done it since I got the car at 39,500 miles. So it makes me wonder if Carvana put red in it when they prepped it for sale.
I think I found the wiring harness I need. It attaches to A0005454984, which goes to the coolant temp sensor 2045421318. Someone was selling the harness under both the 984 part number and 0225452426, which I assume is the actual part number for the male side of the connection. I will double check the connector fitment before ordering. Hopefully that is the last part I need to order in.
Originally Posted by TimC300
Can see why its so easy to total a Mercedes, the parts are so expensive.
Looking up your vin you absolutely have the transmission A89 Reduced Friction option code. The transmission fluid should be the 236.15 which is blue. From my understanding the blue fluid is thinner than the earlier red fluid, so putting red fluid in that transmission isnt the best thing to do. May want to pull the pan and replace the transmission filter while you are at it. The transmission pan bolts should be replaced with new bolts if the pan is removed.
The power steering fluid should be Pentosin CHF 11S. Commonly available locally. New fluid is greenish and my power steering fluid was looking brownish so i'll suction out as much as I can from the reservoir and fill with new fluid. I do this once a day, or when I remember to do it until I use up the container. Its not as good as a complete flush but it seems to get the fluid looking newer. But in my case I think the correct fluid is already in there anyways.
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