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I was perusing the local ads, as I do far too often, and came across a listing that caught my eye: a 1999 SL500, Amber red, Florida car with xenons and a pano roof. It had some issues (couldn't be driven due to a supposedly stuck caliper which was removed) and had sat for two years.
Anyways, I bought it on the spot.
I wasn't intending on buying another car this year (my S211 E55 project is taking most of my time and money) but here we are. Lots of broken or missing trim, a leak from the top-left windshield cylinder, dead brakes and a few other small things. It runs well, the top moves up and down, and it looks pretty decent from afar.
First order of business is to change the front brakes, and then I need to figure out why the right rear wheel has a lot of toe-out.
Last edited by tantumaude; Sep 16, 2024 at 08:56 PM.
My son has a large Ebay store “thebenzgarage” . He has parts from over 60 R129’s and is a walking talking expert on the chassis. He is a one man show and very busy but I do advertise for him on some forums.
Let us know if you need anything thanks Bill
I replaced the front brake rotors and pads--turns out the stuck caliper was just fine. However, I appear to have sprung a massive fluid leak out of the drain pipe just behind the front left wheel. I'm thinking failed hydraulic cylinder for the roof, but it's really a lot of fluid (about one drop every 2 seconds). Annoying.
It's gonna cost you a lot of money to bring it up to spec, not gonna lie to you.
But once you do it'll be fine. These are pretty reliable cars. They're not Lexuses but they are built to run forever.
It seems that it's mostly the silly little trim bits that are expensive. The mechanical stuff is actually reatively cheap.
This weekend I tightened up the front bearings which had play, and did a thorough check. I've ordered the necessary brake lines, VC gaskets, top locking cylinders, bushings and so on. I'd quite like to find some AMG style 1 or 2 wheels for it as it also needs new tires, but all the local listings are for E/S class ones...
It seems that it's mostly the silly little trim bits that are expensive. The mechanical stuff is actually reatively cheap..
What are you referring to? And yeah, the M113 drivetrain is an absolute tank. And I agree, inexpensive to maintain. Sensors and piddly VCGs leaks are about all you'll ever deal with.
Originally Posted by tantumaude;9037249/
This weekend I tightened up the front bearings which had play, and did a thorough check. I've ordered the necessary brake lines, VC gaskets, top locking cylinders, bushings and so on. I'd quite like to find some AMG style 1 or 2 wheels for it as it also needs new tires, but all the local listings are for E/S class ones...
Good luck with everything! When these are running as intended they are just a hoot. I've not had one serious problem with mine. "Fun" doesn't even begin to describe the way mine drives.
Last edited by AJT12345; Sep 24, 2024 at 05:57 PM.
What are you referring to? And yeah, the M113 drivetrain is an absolute tank. And I agree, inexpensive to maintain. Sensors and piddly VCGs leaks are about all you'll ever deal with.
I'm missing a number of small trim pieces for the interior: visor hinge frames, mirror cover, centre console button, corner piece at the top of the door cards, a couple of pieces around the trunk hinges, jack point covers, a few pieces for the hardtop, the two pieces that go around the rear roof anchor points, tow hook cover, among others...none are really necessary, but they'd make the car feel more complete. Sadly, it's next to impossible to find any used ones, and new from online shops is over 2k$ total for all that!
Good luck with everything! When these are running as intended they are just a hoot. I've not had one serious problem with mine. "Fun" doesn't even begin to describe the way mine drives.
Thanks! I really can't wait to be able to properly drive it, but I'm starting to think it won't be before the spring.
I had to replace the two lock cylinders at the top of the windshield. Nice and easy job, but I'm a bit worried; the PO said he had all cylinders replaced two years ago, it seems odd for one to leak so badly so soon.
I also tried to repair the inop antenna, but it seems there's a bigger problem there. It works fine when 12v is applied directly, but it seems it's not getting the proper signal/feed from the radio. I'll do some more digging at some point, in the meantime I replaced the tired trunk shocks.
I'm waiting for some more parts to arrive, but I'll tackle the valve cover gaskets and main belt today.
I also picked up some E55 monoblocks. They're off to refinishing!
Last edited by tantumaude; Oct 1, 2024 at 09:43 AM.
where did you get the new cylinders ? did you rebuild them ? there are some really cheap cylinders kits out there and some people don’t maintain the oil either.
where did you get the new cylinders ? did you rebuild them ? there are some really cheap cylinders kits out there and some people don’t maintain the oil either.
Top Hydraulics in Oregon, who, as I understand, are the only place worth dealing with for this!
Top hydraulics are very knowledgeable but there are better seals available IMO. Some directly from Germany make a very long lasting seal… I have rebuilt quite a few of them with zero complaints
Hey, i happened to have a similar story to my 99 and mine is silver and picked up form Jacksonville, FL, and also be sitted. top doesn't work, ac need recharge and rear caliper seized not to mention lots of broken stuff
I've neglected to post here for a little while.
I tried to get the car aligned, but unfortunately ran into an issue with the right rear. Where previously there was a lot of toe-out on it (corrected with new toe arms), I now have excess positive camber (2.7 degrees). I can't tell if the issue is with the lower carrier arm or the subframe yet, I'm hoping for the former. I suspect the car was damaged at some point there, as there is a new shock and spring on that corner. I need to get it up on a lift to get some measurements.
I did find some W210/R129 spec monoblocks which are currently getting refinished. I'm really looking forward to mounting those in the spring! I'm thinking the car will look good with a slight lowering as well. So many things on the list!
Replaced all four brake lines today, it turned into quite the job when I found out the threads in one of the calipers were damaged. Luckily an easy fix.
I changed the transmission fluid, gaskets, filter and connector socket, and did an oil change. I started replacing the belt, but I cannot get the fan clutch off--waiting on tools to arrive for that tomorrow, along with a replacement idler pulley as mine split in two!
Belt change done, along with an engine oil and tranny fluid change. Can't say the car really needed them, but the transmission connector plug was leaking, so I figured I may as well do it.
Now I need to really sort out that rear camber issue. I'll try to get some measurements of the relative positions of the control arms/bushings to the subframe, but on visual inspection everything seems fine. I know there is a camber arm at the top link of the rear suspension, is it adjustable?
".....Now I need to really sort out that rear camber issue. I'll try to get some measurements of the relative positions of the control arms/bushings to the subframe, but on visual inspection everything seems fine. I know there is a camber arm at the top link of the rear suspension, is it adjustable?"
YES THERE IS NO REAR CAMBER ADJUSTMENT OEM !
We therefore manufacture replacement upper arms that are Camber adjustable.
ALSO REAR LOWER ARM INNER MOUNT BUSHES THAT ARE ALSO CAMBER ADJUSTABLE.
Both kits include “extra” Toe adjustment to compensate for the new rear Camber facility.
ADVANTAGE OF LOWER ARM ADJUSTMENT (OVER UPPER ARM) - is easier to install (do not have to remove arms).
PLUS LOWER PROVIDES FAST, PRECISE ADJUSTMENT. Being easy to access single wrench. ULTIMATE DIRECT ON ALIGNMENT RACK UNDER LOAD.
SEE SPOILER RE FRONT & REAR KITS MANUFACTURED.
Spoiler
For R129 (All Models).
Rear Lower arm kit #502026H $320 (Both Sides).
Upper arm kit #501526-1M $595 (Both Sides).
Also for Rear uprated bushings for the 6 Multi link arms #501528K (AMG #501528-1K) $480 (Both Sides).
Less twitch, flex, loss of traction especially when applying power to lane change / overtake.
FRONT SUSPENSION
Camber (only) #501716-1i $345 (Both Sides)
Camber & Caster #501716K $480 (Both Sides) -also uprating & replacing the 4 Front highest wearing bushes.
LIKE REAR PRECISE SINGLE WRENCH ADJUSTABLE.
DHL Express Air Worldwide $40 one kit ($20 each extra).
I finally got the wheels back from the refinishers, will try to get pics when there is light.
I've run into a strange issue with the overhead lights that's got me scratching my head, wondering if anyone has any insight.
Both map lights work fine. Both also come on when the left switch is put in the 'on' position. However, when the switch is in 'on when door open' position, they do not come on. The footwell lights do come on when the doors are opened, so I don't think it's a switch issue.
I finally got the wheels back from the refinishers, will try to get pics when there is light.
I've run into a strange issue with the overhead lights that's got me scratching my head, wondering if anyone has any insight.
Both map lights work fine. Both also come on when the left switch is put in the 'on' position. However, when the switch is in 'on when door open' position, they do not come on. The footwell lights do come on when the doors are opened, so I don't think it's a switch issue.
that switch goes bad on all of our cars. It’s basically a must that you replace it if it’s original. And that means possibly destroying the surrounding trim and its inner frame. No worries, they can be replaced fairly cheap. Pm me if you’re in need.
i also have a have rear view mirror that’s fully rebuilt in case you come across that issue as well
Getting ready to get the car out of storage in a couple of weeks. Over the winter I've been busy! I had to reinstall the halogen lights as one of the Xenons failed (can't really do much testing without the car, but it's not the bulb nor the ballast). I've also received a replacement tow hook cover and fog light.
An exciting development happened yesterday though: a local junkyard received a lovely manual Chrysler Crossfire...I think we all know what that means!
Big progress last week. I had the car properly aligned (rear subframe was slightly bent, that's sorted now). Replaced the front strut mounts, and it drives beautifully.
I also replaced the brake light switch, that eliminated the BAS, ABS and ESP lights.
Next up: replacing the sway bar bushings, front lower control arms. I also have a new humming noise from the rear at 60+ kph, sounds like a bearing but turning has zero effect on it. I'm thinking maybe the diff (I changed the fluid, old fluid was almost new and it made no difference) or the driveshaft hanger bearing?
Later this week it goes to a bodyman to get the horrible paint on the right side sorted out. Unfortunately one of the foglights I'd ordered arrived broken, so still hunting for that.
All I have (and dare to show) for now. Once it comes back from the bodywork and I try to repair the overhead console there'll be more!
I'm on the fence about the wheel fitment. I intend to get 10mm spacers for the rear, but I'm debating whether to lower the car. Ideally I'd lover it about 15mm, but all the spring sets I've seen do twice that.
Last edited by tantumaude; Jun 6, 2025 at 05:32 PM.
Got a lot of stuff done today. Replaced both the end caps for the sun visor rod (I've completely removed the driver's visor, it seems mostly useless), replaced all four front sway bar bushes, replaced both fog lights, installed missing splash guards, installed the tow hook cover (with the ugly but necessary ziptie insurance), installed the 10mm spacers on the rear, got a wind deflector, replaced the tonneau cover corner trim pieces, removed the silly DRL module that kept all the lights on all the time...we're getting somewhere!
Unfortunately while trying the troubleshoot the interior light switch last week, the overhead console piece disintegrated. I spent four hours plastic welding it more or less back together. It holds, but not very pretty. I really need to find the driver's mirror glass and inside trim triangle.
Got a lot of stuff done today. Replaced both the end caps for the sun visor rod (I've completely removed the driver's visor, it seems mostly useless), replaced all four front sway bar bushes, replaced both fog lights, installed missing splash guards, installed the tow hook cover (with the ugly but necessary ziptie insurance), installed the 10mm spacers on the rear, got a wind deflector, replaced the tonneau cover corner trim pieces, removed the silly DRL module that kept all the lights on all the time...we're getting somewhere!
Unfortunately while trying the troubleshoot the interior light switch last week, the overhead console piece disintegrated. I spent four hours plastic welding it more or less back together. It holds, but not very pretty. I really need to find the driver's mirror glass and inside trim triangle.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
