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I have a 2009 SL-63 AMG with a trunk soft close problem. The trunk opens and closes with key and interior door panel button, but will NOT close al the way to lock. The red light on the interior door stays lit. I cannot open the convertible top because the trunk is not close completely.
I have read the instructions on how to repair/remove the trunk lock actuator, but I cannot remove the trunk panel because the red lock/unlock lights on the panel won't release. I don't want to break anything, so I reassembled the five plastic snap back in. I'm very frustrated because I cannot even start the repairs on the actuator because of this stupid panel. I can't find any photos or videos that someone has removed the trunk panel with the two red lights on the right sides.
Please help me. I hate to go to the dealership and have this replace when I can repair the trunk actuator myself from your instructions.
Thank you ALL.
Juan
You do not need to remove the close/lock buttons - they can stay on the panel. Once you have removed the five plastic push pins, lift the panel slightly on the right side, then slide it to the right. THere is a single "hook" holding it to the trunk lid just to the left of the buttons.
Is there a secret to getting the trunk release rod back into place? I can’t get that ball to snap back in...I even u locked the trunk with a key to be able to adjust the ball up and down...
never mind had to just keep applying pressure at different angles. Finally worked with a flathead. I never disconnected the battery or pulled a fuse and it worked for the ten times I tested it. We will see if it holds up. Thank you for the DIY
Glad you got it to work. When I did mine 3 years back or so I had to go see my mechanic friend who lent me a very long nosed pliers set he had and that did the job fine.
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
Funny. I don't recall any difficulty putting things back in, after I did mine. The thing just snapped into place. Nah, some things are just inexplicable.
After months of continual fuse pull to get the trunk to close properly, I finally took the "plunge" and attempted the fix. When I pulled the latch mechanism out, and tested it visually, I could hear air come from one of the ports and found a crack in another. During the test cycle, the plunger in the tank cycled out and in the tank. After completing the fix, confirming no air leaks from the ports, put it back together and tested again with actually closing the lid. , I could hear air flow, but the second latch cycle didn't occur and the lid did not get pulled closed though I did hear the last typical closure sound from the pump; it just didn't pull down. I removed the latch again, and tested visually. I could again hear the air flow with no outbound air leak. It lasted about 10 seconds. I noted the plunger did not move in the tank during the entire cycle.. All seems to be connected correctly. In checking the plunger, I noticed it is very difficult to pull out as the vacuum in the tank is holding it in.
Just a thought, maybe the trunk latch needs adjusted. Could be too tight or loose to finally catch.........sliding it up a few millimetres my help to loosen and sliding it down to centre it. The plastic guides either side of the trunk lid may also throw the trunk lid out slightly which may cause the latch not to centre on the catch, trial and error is the only way to solve this, making sure you mark the guides before you start adjusting.
good luck,
David Hamilton
The latch is catching the initial closure cycle and begins the air flow cycle. It's just not going through the second part of the cycle pulling it closed. I'm using the latch to open it, so it's definitely catching the initial lock position. Isn't the tank plunger also supposed to cycle too? it's no longer moving out...
2005 R 230 SL350 (M112 3.7). Sold the 1966 W113 230SL recently
I think David has a point. It’s unmercedeslike simple to adjust the latch. Just flip out the tiny plastic cover (if it’s still there) to reveal two bolts holding it and try adjusting the latch. And make sure the plunger you’re talking about is not a membrane, before harassing it...
I think David has a point. It’s unmercedeslike simple to adjust the latch. Just flip out the tiny plastic cover (if it’s still there) to reveal two bolts holding it and try adjusting the latch. And make sure the plunger you’re talking about is not a membrane, before harassing it...
This is a little confusing... perhaps I'm more dense than usual due to caffeine deficiency. The trunk lid is catching the latch (the first stage of closing), then it starts the air flow for over 10 seconds, it's just not pulling down once it clicks on to the latch like it did before the fix after pulling the fuse. After the 10 seconds or more of air flow, you hear the usual reset of the pump (that sits in the lower left of the trunk. The "plunger" is a black rod in the white tank that would go in and out during the cycle before gluing the six ports that have bearings.
Last edited by julrick001; 09-05-2019 at 10:18 AM.
Reason: added additional info
You still have a leak. Make sure you securely and properly reconnected all the hoses. Also, pull the fuse to reset the PSE.
I rechecked all of the ports, looking for bubbles... zip, nada... disassemble it entirely and blew through air into the intake tube... and it sounds like the leak is inside the unit,... no air coming from the ports... is that possible? attached is the sound (not sure if that will help)....
The puck is air tight... but here's the thing.... I tested without it connected to the hose to the puck... no air coming out of the tube that connects to the hose and the puck.... when blowing air through the port opposite of the puck tube, it sounds as if the air is escaping from somewhere inside the box ... does that make sense?
in blowing air through the intake port, no air is exiting the port to the puck. There is no air escaping from any of the six ports... it appears the leak is inside the box... not exiting through any of the glued ports or the tube that feeds to the puck........
Maybe it's time for a new latch. I think there is actually an aftermarket company that sells just the plastic pneumatic part of the latch for around $50 on eBay.
Looking for experienced help with my trunk issue !
I've removed the pneumatic actuator more times than I can remember to glue up the ball bearings, cracks etc each time it will last a few weeks then I find another crack to glue.
So I bought a used one from a breakers and fitted this, it too cracked and leaked which I sealed up once more. After I reset the fuse, i get about 6 successful soft closes, but then it goes again. I checked for leaks, no leaks this time, reset the fuse and still get about 6 goes.
I've just bought another actuator and fully tested it with leak spray, I do not see any leaks. I fitted it and have the same issue with only getting about 6 goes before needed to pull the fuse. Therefore this is suggesting the PSE pump now? Could it be the impeller needing replacing as I read that they crack
?
06-01-2019, 04:09 AM
R230 Trunk Soft Close Problem
