SL500 R230 Vario Roof problems
 

Hi: New to this site looking for some help with my Vario Roof. Thanks in advance for anyone's help.

2006 SL500 R230 with about 30k miles


Front Vario roof lock hydraulic cylinder leaked for about 2 weeks before replacing it. By that time too much hydraulic fluid had leaked out to operate the roof and the Rollover bar is stuck in the middle of its cycle.

When replacing the Front vario roof lock hydraulic cylinder, I unlocked the roof manually with an allen wrench and raised the roof about one foot. After the installation everything seemed to work properly. I pushed the Vario roof locked limit switch S69/3 located on the left locking mechanism and the windows went from the short stroke position to the full up position.

I then shut the trunk and moved the car and was going to fill the hydraulic fluid later. Later when I tried to open the trunk, it would not open. There are several causes that will not allow me to open the trunk even with the mechanical key:

1] the rollover bar remains stuck in the midway position and I have not tried to move it manually

2] In operation and the silhouette of the car remains showing on the dash. When I switch the main switch it sounds as though it is cycling through, however there is no movement due to the deficiency in the hydraulic fluid. Since the RVC thinks that the roof is in operation, it won't let me open the trunk.

3] Upon further research, I have found that the Right tubular frame is locked in the trunk open normally mode, while the Left tubular frame is locked in the top open/ close mode. In other words: the trunk opens from the back on the left side as if the top were going down, while the right side is locked down as if you were opening the trunk.

The possible conclusion being that the Left and/or right Tubular frame locked switch S118/1 &118/2 are not registering that the trunk lid has locked itself completely; I am thinking that the problem is with the left side switch.

If there is a way to unlock the Right side tubular switch and open the trunk in the direction as if the top were lowering, or if we could lock the left side tubular switch and open the trunk normally, we could then fill the hydraulic fluid and I believe the roof would function properly as it was before the fluid loss.

I believe that I can get my hand into the front left side of the trunk if there is a way to unlock that Right side tubular frame, we could get into the trunk by lifting the trunk rearwards as if the top were lowering. I can definitely get my hand into the left side to trip that Left side tubular frame locked switch if that is the better way to go.

I would like to be able to let the RVC know that the top is all the way up and locked so that I can get my windows out of the short stroke mode. Can Star diagnostics override the switches? Take me out of the short stroke mode? Let me access the trunk?

Help - 06 sl500 - I hit the top open while moving 5 mph and it started to open - trunk started to raise 8inchs then stopped.. I tried to close it.. it moved an inch.. I pulled over put it in park and tried to open/close but it seems stuck with the trunk at 3inches open . the console switch produces the noise of a motor working in the trunk but nothing is moving, (on the up or down) pull of switch. Flaps are good... any ideas???

Try operating the switch while someone else either pushes or pull on the lid (whichever direction to match how you are operating the switch).

Guys, first post here. My 2007 sl 500 last night decided to stop lowering the roof - it is now 3 inches from fully down with the red alarm signal on the dash if I drive - which I had to do. I think I heard a bump when the roof was lowering a few seconds before it stopped - i'm now stuck with a open top car with the trunk 3 inches out of alignment. Is there a manual way to lift the roof up to allow me to get to a garage or just drive with the roof up until I can source a reputable garage?

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MBZ has a diagnostic aid that sometimes helps at least to identify "where" it has stopped. I have a copy of it here:

http://benzbits.com/r230/roof/VarioR...gnosticAid.pdf

Non of the scenarios seem to cover your situation, so my guess is that there is a physical blockage. I assume you have tried closing (raising) the roof and it still will not operate? Do you hear the hydraulic pump operating when you press the control switch?

Along the same vein as the front locking mechanism leaking fluid(which mine did), what can a person do about the black liner material next to the top of the passenger side window? The fluid seemed to have distorted this black liner so it looks all wrinkly, but not destroyed. Has anyone out here done a write up on replacing/restoring this part??

Thanks, Greg 2003 SL500

Had the same wrinkled molding from a leaking front top cylinder. Used a new single edged razor blade to cut off approximately 3/4" of the wrinkle for the full length of the molding. If done correctly it looks fine.

I have the same condition...very wrinkled along front of roof edge—passenger side, as that is the side the leaking fluid ran to. I'm going to try to find one on ebay or elsewhere for not too much. Before I replace:

Has ANYONE tried shrinking this wrinkled felt tongue section back to original shape...with either heat or cold or any chemical?

Thanks.

Someone here wrote he stretched it, and cut of the then exceeding length.

Trunk won’t close
 

Tried putting top up. After 30 sec The top wouldn’t go up so I reversed to leave top down. Now it won’t go in either direction. Trunk closed until about 3 inches and will not close any further. Dash shows top in operation as soon as ignition is turned on, but does not respond to trying to open or close. 2005 sl500 with 43000 miles.

That sounds like low fluid, which means that you have a leak, but it could be a number of things. I would start by closing the roof because it needs to be out of the way to do any work. Open the trunk in service mode, open the pump bypass, fully open the tubular frame, manually close the roof, manually latch the front latch, close and manually latch the tubular frame.

After you have the roof closed, check the fluid level of the pump. If it is low, you need to find and fix the leak(s).

Is there a similar R231 Vario Roof Diagnostic Aid Pdf you could post? Is the roof opening mechanism on the R230 and R231 identical? I am experiencing roof opening problems with my 2017 R231; MB service has not been able to correct (or even reproduce) my problem on multiple occasions when I left the car with them for several days.

Does anyone knows the dimensions for the U cup seal on the roof lock cylinder. I read somewhere that it is 16 OD, 9 ID and 4.5 H (mm). Need to confirm. Found a source for the seal and need to confirm! . Do not like to use the currently selling O ring for that application!

Yes, but make sure it is a urethane or viton seal.

Check out this thread. Especially response on new style seal. https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ng-repair.html

Happy New Year to all SL owners, may we have many trouble free & safe miles in 2022.

Currently my 06 – SL500 is having the same issue as several members are experiencing, my trunk lid is approx. 3 inches from fully closing. I was able to use the key to open the trunk lid. I observed what appears to be hydraulic oil spray on the left portion of the folded top. Also, the pump was low on oil. Added oil to mid-point, closed trunk lid and tried again. I can hear the pump run, but no movement. Any suggestion would be helpful. Will damage occur if I drive the vehicle with the trunk lid open 3”? Also does anyone know of a good repair shop in the Houston, Texas area that specializes in MB roof hydraulics ? Many thanks.

I wouldn't drive more that a short distance at low speed with the trunk open.

The first thing I would try is to get a couple of helpers to gently push down on the trunk while you try to open the roof. With assistance, you might be able to complete the 'open' operation (close trunk and lock the frame locks).

If that doesn't work, open the trunk, open the pressure release valve, and attempt to close the frame (use a helper on the second side). Once it is closed, use a 6mm allen wrench and lock the frame latches on each side. You will want to raise the back of the roof to the load assist position and prop it up to make it easier to get to the locks. If you can't get the frame fully closed, the frame locks may have closed and you will need to open them, push the frame down, and then relock them. Once they are locked, close the pump bypass.

I think you have a bad rod seal on the frame lift cylinder or possibly on the left frame lock. At that stage of opening, you have rod side pressure on both frame locks and on the frame lift, which is on the left side. If the oil is towards the front of the roof, it is probably the lock cylinder, if it is further back, the frame lift.

About (un)locking the frame: on both sides to open the locks pull the Allen key towards the rear of the car, to close pull towards the front (I fooled myself thinking thread-wise, yesterday). Perhaps being over cautious, I took (un)locking in two steps, so as not to exert too much twist on the whole construction.

thanks for the excellent responses to my problem, will try your suggestions tomorrow. I will try to secure the roof in the down position and to isolate the problem. Had the SL for approx.14 years and only had the common flap issue with the roof. Bill

Was able to raise the roof with the help from an independent MB garage. Determined the source of the problem is a leaky "Trunk lid hydraulic cylinder (A230 800 1372) " or number 8 cylinder in the "Vario Roof Diagnostic Aid". The independent garage gave an estimate of $650.00 to replace with a rebuilt cylinder. This cylinder appears to be an easy replacement or the easiest cylinder to replace on the entire top??. I can purchase a rebuilt cylinder from Tophyraulics for $125 or $155. Should I replace this cylinder myself or are there difficulties that I am not aware of. I have the proper oil and use a 100cc syringe to refill pump.
Thanks , Bill

That one and the frame locks are pretty easy. You have to be a bit careful when you remove the hoses from the pump as that hold down has a lot of connections that will want to pop out. Not a problem as long as they are all numbered. OE hoses will have red numbers on them, but if a hose was replaced for a rebuild, it might not have them. If you plan to keep the car for awhile, you should consider doing the frame locks at the same time. They are about the same life expectancy as your bad one and it will save you some hassle down the road. You would be all in for less than $400.

Cabriolet Hydraulics in Florida is another option for a rebuilder. They do good work and had quicker turnaround last time I checked. Pricing is pretty much the same.

Be careful so that you do not break the sensor. It has a plunger that attaches on the rod end eye and actuates a microswitch on the body. Being good old German plastic, they tend to break.

Finally starting to replace the "Trunk lid hydraulic cylinder (A230 800 1372". After removing the rear panel to gain access to hydraulic cylinder I noticed a Stabilus gas strut on the right side of vehicle. Appears to have a similar function as the hydraulic cylinder. Should I replace this gas strut and does nobody know the part number. Not sure if all years had this gas strut (my R230 is a 2006). thanks, bill

You can remove it and see how easy it is to compress it. P/N is 2307500136. If fits all R230's.

That part number is to be preceded with "A".
I think the OEM part was a Stabilus Lift-O-Mat SG303007 (available at least in Europe).

Thanks for the information. ordered this morning from FCP, for $18.00 (Stabilus 2307500136), makes sense to replace. Again thanks, Bill