SL-Class (R230) 2003 -- 2012: Discussion on the SL500, SL550, SL600

SL/R230: ABC high pressure line / Pulsation Dampner

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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 08:46 PM
  #26  
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Sorry - my type - yes Y36/1. Now, it's possible this has changed with the ABC revisions that have been made over the production of the R230, but on my MY2011, the pressure hose from the pump goes to the front valve block first (I just got through changing it!) It may just be a pass-through on its way to the pressure supply valve, but it tells me that the diagram doesn't show everything.
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Old Aug 10, 2016 | 01:13 AM
  #27  
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After doing a rodeo nothing else popped up on a quick check so I new I might find something in a different section. While doing a failed level calibration I followed the ABC section back to history and I find 16k hits for C1000. Make matters worse I find 3 different names related to C1000.
Why it won't show on a quick check I have no answer.
After I match serial #'s for the corresponding modules turns out they're all the same; it's the ABC control unit.

Until a replacement arrives I'm going to remove all the underbody panels and double check all my hoses and valve block connections. If the valve block seals were tired I want to be sure the hoses are still within service tolerances and not cracking or swelling.
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Old Aug 10, 2016 | 02:03 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Rudeney
...but on my MY2011, the pressure hose from the pump goes to the front valve block first...
Your car has a somewhat different architecture than the '02-'06 cars.

Originally Posted by Hary Gahtoe
After I match serial #'s for the corresponding modules turns out they're all the same; it's the ABC control unit.
If the ABC controller actually is the cause of your problem, then with power removed from the module the vehicle should maintain level.

Last edited by bobterry99; Aug 10, 2016 at 03:22 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2016 | 09:55 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bobterry99

Originally Posted by Rudeney View Post
...but on my MY2011, the pressure hose from the pump goes to the front valve block first...
Your car has a somewhat different architecture than the '02-'06 cars.
Yeah, I was looking at some diagrams in WIS and the front valve block definitely looks different.
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Old Aug 10, 2016 | 10:10 AM
  #30  
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I think this is an extremely good thread and I'm anxious to see the resolution. I do think it will be some sort of electrical problem in the system. moretech
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Old Aug 10, 2016 | 01:45 PM
  #31  
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This might sound dumb, but it's worth a try. The front of my dropped consistently after I shut the car off. And typically within 1 hour after turning the car off the front would be completely lowered with the red light Car too Low error when I would start the car.
Couple of weeks ago, I had the rear supply hose rupture on my way home. This is the main supply to the rear valve body. When I replaced that hose, and refilled the system, the car worked as before and the front end did not drop or lower at all when I shut the car off. The suspension stood up for two days with minimal droop.

Initially, my intention was to rebuild the valve block assemblies as it is well documented on this forum, but I was waiting for the cooler weather before I tackled that chore.

So, in summary, it might be worthwhile to flush the ABC system before tackling something that is more complicated.
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Old Aug 10, 2016 | 04:06 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by mkirincic
This might sound dumb, but it's worth a try. The front of my dropped consistently after I shut the car off. And typically within 1 hour after turning the car off the front would be completely lowered with the red light Car too Low error when I would start the car.
Couple of weeks ago, I had the rear supply hose rupture on my way home. This is the main supply to the rear valve body. When I replaced that hose, and refilled the system, the car worked as before and the front end did not drop or lower at all when I shut the car off. The suspension stood up for two days with minimal droop.

Initially, my intention was to rebuild the valve block assemblies as it is well documented on this forum, but I was waiting for the cooler weather before I tackled that chore.

So, in summary, it might be worthwhile to flush the ABC system before tackling something that is more complicated.
You made a very valid point. Thanks for the reply.

I just finished doing another redeo and then tried a level calibration which failed. So now the next move is pulling off all my belly pans and panels covering the hoses and valve blocks to be sure something like you mentioned has/hasn't gone bad
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Old May 2, 2017 | 06:32 PM
  #33  
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Hey guys, I am finally getting around to replacing the front and rear accumulators or "pressure reservoirs" as MB calls them. While replacing the rear accumulator it makes sense to me to replace the return accumulator. Does anyone happen to have the part number for the return accumulator? Clearly the front and rear accumulators are the same part (A2203270115), but the return looks different to me in the WIS.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 06:47 PM
  #34  
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There are two bigger ones and two smaller ones IIRC, I would suggest, if you're doing some of them, do all of them.

2203270415 - return
2203270215 - pump/primary
From the ABC Drive carefully blog. He has everything listed there.

The big one is 2203270115 and is the same for front and rear.

Last edited by ItalianJoe1; May 2, 2017 at 06:59 PM.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 07:30 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
There are two bigger ones and two smaller ones IIRC, I would suggest, if you're doing some of them, do all of them.

2203270415 - return
2203270215 - pump/primary
From the ABC Drive carefully blog. He has everything listed there.

The big one is 2203270115 and is the same for front and rear.
Thanks a ton. I will do all of them plus a nice flush, new filter and clean pentosin.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 07:37 PM
  #36  
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My car is much better after doing them. I had a line fail, drove the car back to my job as it was midnight and I wasn't far, i think that burned up the front seal on the pump.

I ended up dropping the subframe, doing the 3 lines under the engine, all 4 accumulators, and a pump. Much better now with everything leak-free and the suspension working as it should, I was getting the flash warning over big bumps prior to the accumulator replacement.
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Old Apr 15, 2018 | 12:14 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by bobterry99
When the engine is shut-off the pressure in the system rapidly decays. The pump quits making pressure, of course, and the front and rear accumulators as well as the pulsation dampener lose pressure as they empty. I believe Star Diagnosis has a test which monitors that rate of decay to discern the health of the accumulators.
Anybody knows how to analyze the decay rate graph that DAS displays to identify if the dampener is blown. When the car goes over dips in the road I hear a burp coming from the back together with the red message to drive carefully for a couple of seconds. I believe this is the indication for a blown pulsation dampener(s) but I would like to isolate which one if possible.
I will try to post the graph later.
Thank you,
Radu
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Old Apr 15, 2018 | 05:03 PM
  #38  
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Change them all if you haven't, if one is failing, they are all the same age and can't be far behind.
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Old Apr 15, 2018 | 05:37 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by gafitanu
I believe this is the indication for a blown pulsation dampener(s) but I would like to isolate which one if possible.
In Star Diagnosis go to the ABC controller main menu. From there go to:
Troubleshooting by means of complaints or symptoms > Handling characteristics > Vehicle damping too soft or spongy handling characteristics > Pressure change during pressure release.
Follow the instructions to determine which accumulator is faulty.




Last edited by bobterry99; Apr 15, 2018 at 05:41 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2018 | 07:52 PM
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This is what I got.
Earlier today after a longer drive it was a continuous decaying line without the sudden drop 2/3 into the graph.

Last edited by gafitanu; Apr 15, 2018 at 07:56 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 10:33 PM
  #41  
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Trying to find a part number for this hose...

Originally Posted by Rudeney
Yeah, I was looking at some diagrams in WIS and the front valve block definitely looks different.

Rodney I have read this old thread about the high pressure hose for 2007-2008 and ^ that runs from the ABC (Tandem pump) to the valve block in the left bumper cover in front of the left front wheel.
I had one repaired in 2019 (see the attached picture) and also found this number on it A 230 320 88 53 however so far I have not been able to located it on EPC.
At this time I like to get a replacement on order however my local dealer has not been able to identify it as well.

Did you by any chance know the part number?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Best H

Overall View

Upper section were it connects to the pump

Lower section were it connects to the valve unit

Location were I found the number 230 320 88 53

Last edited by Hendrik Koster; Oct 29, 2020 at 03:21 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2020 | 11:08 PM
  #42  
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What does that part # bring up? It should be for the right hose.
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Old Oct 29, 2020 | 10:45 AM
  #43  
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It looks correct to me. Item 380 in EPC, you might have to scroll over a couple of screens to see it on the diagram, but it is in there (unique to 472 submodel).

Mike

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Old Oct 29, 2020 | 03:54 PM
  #44  
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Correct part number

Originally Posted by MikeJ65
It looks correct to me. Item 380 in EPC, you might have to scroll over a couple of screens to see it on the diagram, but it is in there (unique to 472 submodel).

Mike
You are correct that appears to be the right part number some how most illustration in EPC resemble the actual part, in this case it's not.

The assist is appreciated.
Happy motoring to all.

H
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 07:30 PM
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Old Nov 28, 2020 | 09:59 PM
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Holy S#*t !
I Have car covers older than this thread but 4 yrs is old. Oh well, as long as its relevant. Party on Garth
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