MM Garage

Hello from Finland!

First i must say that i hope everybody understand my writing,because it's not maybe perfect.

I have tried search and google for this common issue about roof problems, but i haven't found exactly solutions for my problems.

I did get this SL500 couple months ago from outside Finland,and allmost so far it has been waiting in garage that snow would melt.

Yesterday was nice day so i did take it outside to wash it properly. Before i started washing it i wanted to try how roof operates first time. Well roof did go nicely down to trunk,and trunk closed. Everything looked good and i did try rollbarr and it operated well also.

Then i wanted to put roof back up so i could start washing, and then the problems started.
Mechanism didn't do anything or keep any kind of sound when trying to put top up..nothing. even that rollbarr didn't say anything anymore.

Then i started to search solution from google, and these roof problems shows to be common problem on these.
I did take battery of for a while in trunk, when finding possible solutions what to do.
Somebody had been written that roof should be open / close in flat surface, because it could go little wrong in trunk.
So i did attach battery and start car and drive it to garage to try it there on flat. It did actually start coming and roof did come up, but trunk did leave open with those flaps out. Motor or pump did make noise to try close it, but it didn't do anything from that position. and that pump did stop making noise instantly i did stop pushing switch.

I did put it down manually on place, and after that try it again. Top goes down and trunk closes nicely, but when putting up, roof comes put that trunk stay on that open position and pump try to close it, but it doesn't make a move.

Couple more issuen that i finded when loosing my mind with this was:

-my trunk switch didn't open trunk anymore, i had to open it with key, but soft-close did work as should..

-Both door windows don't come all the way up anymore. door window leaves about 2mm narrow from up,and little windows also and they don't match to each other on that sealing.
I did make that fuse trick and try to teach them, but wouldn't help.
They don't anymore make that lowering operation when opening door, or raise when putting door closed.

-Then last problem that i did find out was that when roof comes back it goes nicely on place when looking outside, but inside driver side looks like it's in right place, but passenger side looks it don't go all the way in. it looks like it's in place and locked, but leaves about 2mm gap more than driver side..

Has anyone had these kind of problems that could help ???

I haven't look those flaps before that do they hang loose little, but are those flaps so critical that they would be that problem that trunk won't go down if flaps won't turn inside?? Flaps open normally when opening roof, but they don't even try to turn in.

Both batteries has been changed in 1 month now, and i have reb battery warning on dash, and i did suspect that alternator regulator would be going, but when measured with electricmeter it shows that alternator is charging normally.

Im going to drive next week to put it on STAR, so i would get to see what that says about possible problems.

Willie G

I had the same roof alignment issue on my 2005 SL55. The strikers in top of the windscreen that the two roof latches lock into had loosened. I had to remove the headliner on the windscreen to access them but it was very easy to adjust retighten them. But that issue would have existed before the battery issue if it was cause by the strikers becoming loose.

bobterry99

Perhaps the guide pin on the right side which guides the leading edge of the roof into its windshield latch is broken. If so, limit switch S69/1 will not close and allow the closing operation to complete. The windows will remain slightly lowered as well. Refer to the roof diagnostic aide which Lee Wireless uploaded: https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ml#post2946199.

mfa0007

I have a similar problem, except that the roof is stuck 1/2 an inch from closing. I have replaced the flaps - at the dealership and the hydraulic pump for the roof, also at the dealership. Now I need to get the roof down, so I can get it some place to repair it. So far I have tried:Thoughts / ideas?

ps. 2005 SL500 with a ton of miles. Too many new hoses, pumps, and seals...

Rudeney

You can get into the trunk using the manual key. Insert it into the lock, turn it left (counter clockwise) then squeeze the handle.

In case you are interested in a bit of DIY, here's the vario roof diagnostic aid:

http://benzbits.com/r230/roof/VarioR...gnosticAid.pdf

mfa0007

Thanks,
Foolish me. I had tried the Key, and it didn't pop it originally. I am going to blame my lack of thought to try the handle as being the thought of another big *** bill for this car :-( . Thanks. So I read through the DIY and just to make sure, there is no easy way to put the roof all the way down from this position. (Rear windows work, normal windows are at 1/3 inch from normal position). I am guessing it is not the battery, and it is either something mechanical - the pump is new from dealership < 3 months. Any suggestions? (or things I could check?)

bobterry99

If the pump is running and nothing moves, then there is surely a lack of hydraulic pressure. I presume in your case the likely cause is an internal or external leak with one or more cylinders. If you check the level of oil in the pump reservoir and it is low, then an external leak is suggested. You can check for internal leakage with a simple test.

Have the roof closed and the trunk lid open. Use a screwdriver to close the latch on the trunk lid so that the roof controller does not recognize the trunk lid is open. Access the numbered hydraulic lines going to the roof pump and remove lines 30, 32, 33, and 34. Have someone activate the roof closed switch while you watch for fluid coming out of the disconnected lines and valve block. There should be very little or no fluid seen at all. Significant fluid from line 30 indicates a leaky front lock cylinder, 32 a leaky tubular frame cylinder, 33 a leaky left tubular frame lock, and 34 a leaky right tubular frame lock. Significant fluid from any of the exposed ports on the valve block suggest it is faulty.

Rudeney

Also, is the roof locked to the windshield header? If not, that may be the issue. The trunk lid won't close fully until that happens. That latch cylinder is often the first to go. If it is that latch, you can operate it manually with the Allen wrench tool after removing the trim plug on the headliner.

bobterry99

Actually, the tubular frame (trunk lid) closing and latching is not dependent upon the roof latching at the windshield, and both events occur in parallel to one another.

Rudeney

Bob, check page 14 of the diagnostic aid. It specifically states that if "Open S69/2 & S69/3 - Open" then "Top operates fully except pump continues to run - warning tone rings and windows never fully close - 1/4 inch gap remains."

bobterry99

The gap mentioned is between the top of the windows and their seals -- not the tubular frame/trunk lid. Note that in the photo the tubular frame/trunk lid is completely closed.

I recently diagnosed and repaired a roof with multiple problems which included a roof latch cylinder with an internal leak. I know from 1st-hand experience that the tubular frame can close and completely lock while the front latches remain open.

Further, if you look at the hydraulic schematic for the Vario roof you will see that the three locks and the tubular frame hydraulic cylinders are not controlled independently. Therefore, if the roof cylinder is pressurized to pull the roof completely closed and lock it, then simultaneously the tubular frame cylinder must be pressurized to close and lock as well. It is simply impossible to condition closing and locking the tubular frame with the locking of the roof.

Rudeney

OK, thanks for that clarification - I was thinking the gap was the lid. One thing I still don't understand is: What indicates that the lid has closed to the point in stage 5 where cylinders 4 and 5 can engage to lock it down?. I see no switch to report that the lid is in this "catch" Since you pointed out that cylinders 3, 4 and 5 all operate simultaneously, the only thing I see is S91/1 that would report the roof panel is in the catch position. I assume that if something kept the lid from fully closing (but dropped enough so S119 does not report it as fully raised), but the roof made it to the windshield, that cylinders 4 and 5 will still actuate? But then there would still be and issue because S69/2 and S69/3 would not report that the tubular frame is locked, so I assume you'd get a "visit workstation" message?

bobterry99

Intuitively, you would expect there to be a switch, yet none is needed nor exists due to the mechanical design of the latches. While the tubular frame is closing its latch cylinders are continuously pressurized ("actuated") to lock the frame, but the latches are held open by a catch mechanism. When the tubular frame closes and engages a latch its catch releases to permit the latch to close and lock the frame.

Rudeney

Ah, that makes sense now. Thanks, Bob!