Arniesauto

2003 SL500 roll over bar is up and so is the retractable hard top. Unable to lower roll over bar with switch. Will not raise or lower.

Rudeney

If it deployed due to motion, you have to use the roll bar "raise" button until you hear the hydraulic mechanism click in place, and then you can lower it.

Arniesauto

The switch on the console is not responding. When I try to lower/open or raise/close the top, the handle does light up red. The top was up and the roll bar at a midway point when I bought the car, and the luggage cover was kinda' jammed; like it was not lowered and someone tried to force the top down. The convenience battery was discharged. After driving it, the battery charged. Had error to close the cover. Now, no error, but the roll bar still will not move, and the top does not work.

Rudeney

Have you tried using the roll bar buttons, located underneath the top "handle style" button?

bobterry99

I would try operations with the engine running. Presuming that makes no difference, I would then have the engine off and listen for whether the pump runs when you press the switch. If it runs, check for adequate hydraulic oil in the pump reservoir located in the left side of the trunk. If the pump does not run, check its fuse in the rear fuse box -- in fact, check all of the fuses in the rear box. The box is located under the storage compartment behind the left seat.

Arniesauto

Yes, I have tried the switches under the top handle, too many times. I held the switch down for approx. 20 seconds, nothing happened. I can hear a light clicking when I press and release the down/lower button; like relays or switches trying to do their job.

Arniesauto

I always have my engine running when operating convertible tops. I did check and replace a few fuses located behind the passenger seat. I have not heard the hydraulic pump in the trunk running. I did not think about the roll bar powered by hydraulics. I have owned and driven convertibles for 35+ years. SLKs, CLKs and SLs, and more. Started with a 1978 MGB, vermillion red. Should have thought about the roll bar needing the hydraulics to work. Will check it later.

Arniesauto

Well, seems I have more problems than I needed. The tubular frame was unlocked in the trunk on the passenger side. The wind blew the trunk closed before the frame was unlocked on the driver side, leaving the deck open on one side. Now, unable to open trunk to check hydraulic fluid level in pump. I disconnected the main battery and separated the remote from the metal key hoping the lock will allow me to open the trunk manually; no luck. Because I am unable to drive with the deck lid open on one side, the convenience battery is depleted. I figured it was have to be replaced, but it did stay charged if the car was driven every other day. Please help! I want to drive this car whether the top works or not.

bobterry99

You really should be able to unlatch the trunk lid from the tubular frame regardless of whether the frame is locked or not. If you can not, then the only recourse I know of will be to force the system to latch the tubular frame. To do that you access the roof controller, remove its electrical connectors, and jumper sockets together to run the pump and energize needed solenoids.

Arniesauto

Is the roof controller the "black box" located below the fuse box on passenger side? Should the car be running at disconnect and reconnect? Or, do I disconnect, reconnect and start car. Or, reconnect after starting car?

bobterry99

No, that is the rear SAM (Signal Acquisition Module). The roof controller is beneath the SAM. You'll probably need to remove the left-rear interior panel, rear panel, and left storage box to access the connectors to the roof controller. If you proceed expect to break numerous clips attaching those panels.

It doesn't matter whether you make connections with the engine running or off.

The roof controller has two connectors with numbered sockets. Connector #1 is closer to the rear of the car. To make the tubular frame close and latch you apply 12 volts to connector #1 sockets #10 and #24. That will energize the pump control relay and the solenoid for the main hydraulic valve. You can get 12 volts from connector #2 socket #4.

I once generated a handful of faults in a roof controller by disconnecting connector #1 while connector #2 was attached -- the controller sensed the open-circuit condition that had been created with various solenoids. The roof and roll bar would not operate until I cleared the faults with Star Diagnosis. If you remove connector #2 prior to #1 you may not set any faults.

None of the above should be necessary because again, you ought to be able to open the trunk lid with the key and handle as explained in the owner's manual.

Arniesauto

Well, if I had gold bars I know where to store them. Don't know what I did different Friday afternoon. Walked to the back of the car, pushed trunk unlock on remote, and it opened. The pump does have hydraulic fluid. The relay on the side of the pump is missing its plastic cover. I touched the exposed relay and the pump started running. I thought I had the tubular frame locked in, and shut the trunk. Again, I am unable to get in the trunk, and I did not have the frame locked in. I released the top manually at the windshield and moved it back enough to get a ratchet in the trunk and unlocked the drivers side frame. Trunk still will not unlock with remote or with key. Decided to leave it alone until another day. Quite frustrating!

Aussiesuede

This is a shot in the dark, but check the microswitches for the roof latches on the right and left side of the windshield. Over time, the wiring at the articulation point where the rear of the roof panel meets the top of the rear glass - breaks. This results in the roof controller not believing the roof is actually locked even though it is. If the roof controller senses that the roof isn't locked, then it won't allow access to the trunk since the trunk can't be accessed during the raising or lowering operation. Here is a link that details this exact instance. There are a sum total of 4 microswitches (2 at the latches on each side of the windshield, and 2 at the tubular frame locks in the trunk) that can produce this condition. It's rare that the microswitches themselves fail, but it's common that the wires fray due to constant 170 degree bending and unbending every time the roof is operated. http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r230...dows-wont.html

thompsonc487

Well - here's my situation. I lowered my roof and raised my roll bar. Found a ton of hydraulic fluid pouring into the boot/trunk from somewhere. Roop Pump Reservoir was obviously empty at this point. I refilled the pump and it poured out quicker the second time then it did the first.

1) in order to find out where the leak is I need to get the roll bar down so I can manually close my roof.
2) I believe I can release the roll bar actuators to free the roll bar - anyone have directions for doing this?

thompsonc487

Well - here's my situation. I lowered my roof and raised my roll bar. Found a ton of hydraulic fluid pouring into the boot/trunk from somewhere. Roop Pump Reservoir was obviously empty at this point. I refilled the pump and it poured out quicker the second time then it did the first.

1) in order to find out where the leak is I need to get the roll bar down so I can manually close my roof.
2) I believe I can release the roll bar actuators to free the roll bar - anyone have directions for doing this?