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Under hard acceleration from a dead stop or on the highway the car goes into limp mode. I believe it happens when the pedal is floored. When I turn the key off and start up again, everything is back to normal. No fault message comes up in the dash.
I've had a similar problem with my 550. Since I bought it a month ago, on four different occasions the ESP light has came on and the car has went into a limp mode. Each time it has been under sudden, hard acceleration. And each time, all I have had to do to turn off the ESP limp mode is pull over, shut off the engine, and restart the engine.
Could this also be as simple as replacing the accelerator?
I've had a similar problem with my 550. Since I bought it a month ago, on four different occasions the ESP light has came on and the car has went into a limp mode. Each time it has been under sudden, hard acceleration. And each time, all I have had to do to turn off the ESP limp mode is pull over, shut off the engine, and restart the engine.
Could this also be as simple as replacing the accelerator?
Normally a failing accelerator pedal position sensor doesn't cause the ESP to light, nor flicker, so that wouldn't be my first guess. But it is possible. Wait for one of the Techs to chime in, but the 1st thing I'd be looking at would be failing wheel speed sensors (or if you've had any brake work done, sometimes it's as simple as one of them not being fully reseated properly.).
Well, I have SL600 with all those ignition coils and so on and in any case of these symptoms, ignition was the cause. I know that SL500 ignition system is totally different, but maybe it's worth giving a try.
So first thing to do is to get error codes. If it's ignition cause issue, you don't need any specific MB tools as any OBD scanner would discover these.
Limp mode with the ESP light is usually an issue such as a bad wheel speed sensor that is causing the car to believe a wheel has locked-up. Pulling codes using a scanner that reads MBZ-specific DTCs is the first step in the diagnosis.
Limp mode with the ESP light is usually an issue such as a bad wheel speed sensor that is causing the car to believe a wheel has locked-up. Pulling codes using a scanner that reads MBZ-specific DTCs is the first step in the diagnosis.
This afternoon while taking my son for a ride in my new-to-me SL550, I tried a hard acceleration while pulling onto the interstate, and ended up with not only the ESP Off message with the yellow triangle, but also a Check Engine message. Having not getting myself an SDS yet, I stopped by the local Autozone and had codes pulled. He only pulled one code - P2123.Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "D" Circuit High Input. Is this the accelerator pedal position sensor?
Thanks for the advice on checking Mercedes specific codes. I'll have to find someone with the right type of code reader until I get my own.
QA generic OBDII scanner will only read codes from the ECU. It won't tell you if there are transmission or ESP problems, but in this case, the throttle pedal position sensor code is from the ECU and will get scanned by a generic tool. It is quite possible that the accelerator pedal is the issue given this code.
This afternoon while taking my son for a ride in my new-to-me SL550, I tried a hard acceleration while pulling onto the interstate, and ended up with not only the ESP Off message with the yellow triangle, but also a Check Engine message. Having not getting myself an SDS yet, I stopped by the local Autozone and had codes pulled. He only pulled one code - P2123.Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "D" Circuit High Input. Is this the accelerator pedal position sensor?
Thanks for the advice on checking Mercedes specific codes. I'll have to find someone with the right type of code reader until I get my own.
Been there. Bought used accelerator pedal on e-bay for $35. Two years - no more problem (I mean this particular problem, there is plenty of other problems, but it is beside the point)
I replaced my accelerator pedal today. If my test drive is any indication this has fixed the problem. I tried several fast full throttle attempts on the on ramp, and was not able to induce the ESP Off condition. The replacement accelerator pedal only cost $55 on Ebay. Time will tell if the error happens again. But for now, it looks like a successful fix.
If anyone else needs to replace the accelerator pedal, a word to the wise. Check the accelerator pedal part number before ordering. Many of the accelerator pedals on Ebay are shown as fitting '03-'08, but the pedal assy for my '07 was a different p/n.
Under hard acceleration from a dead stop or on the highway the car goes into limp mode. I believe it happens when the pedal is floored. When I turn the key off and start up again, everything is back to normal. No fault message comes up in the dash.
hi I have same problem on my car the thing u mentioned did u find wats the problem .ur answer will gr8 help thnks
I took the car to the MB dealer who told me about $3,000 to repair this problem. Reading on this forum about the accelerator pedal assembly, I bought one and installed. One nut and one plug. Solved the problem. Why? There is a kick-down switch on the back of the assembly which kicks the tranny down one gear for added acceleration. But a switch is a switch. The symptoms indicate a computer intervention.
So an independent mechanic told me that assembly contains the kick-down switch and the throttle position sensor. He said the latter has two throttle position sensors, one reading 0 - 100% and the other reading 100 - 0%. When the sum does not add to zero, the computer considers it a problem, but takes no action. Only when you engage the kick-down switch does the computer say, enough is enough and give you limp home mode. I suppose that is because dirt in the sensors is expected, and perfection is not long lived, but if you are going full bore, then it could become serious. My guess only. No idea if this is true, but it was a reputable source.
However, I noticed that after replacing the accelerator assembly, not only did it solve the limp home mode issue, but the accelerator provided smoother accelerator response throughout its range. I guess that makes sense, too.
I took the car to the MB dealer who told me about $3,000 to repair this problem. Reading on this forum about the accelerator pedal assembly, I bought one and installed. One nut and one plug. Solved the problem. Why? There is a kick-down switch on the back of the assembly which kicks the tranny down one gear for added acceleration. But a switch is a switch. The symptoms indicate a computer intervention.
So an independent mechanic told me that assembly contains the kick-down switch and the throttle position sensor. He said the latter has two throttle position sensors, one reading 0 - 100% and the other reading 100 - 0%. When the sum does not add to zero, the computer considers it a problem, but takes no action. Only when you engage the kick-down switch does the computer say, enough is enough and give you limp home mode. I suppose that is because dirt in the sensors is expected, and perfection is not long lived, but if you are going full bore, then it could become serious. My guess only. No idea if this is true, but it was a reputable source.
However, I noticed that after replacing the accelerator assembly, not only did it solve the limp home mode issue, but the accelerator provided smoother accelerator response throughout its range. I guess that makes sense, too.
I bought a new one from the MB dealer for $180.
Thnks for ur information. I ordered accelerator pedal assembly from mercedes dealership. It will take time bcs it's coming from Germany. Thnk u
Can anyone actually confirm that is the accelerator pedal after the 2 years
I am now having this same problem with a w204 m276. at first I thought it was the eco start stop but it wasn’t I guess it’s the accelerator pedal according to you guys so if anyone can confirm in the long run you’ve not ran into the issue again cuz my literally just limps with the engine still running and the traction control disabled or esp
Why would anyone in the r230 forum confirm this for a w204? It’s a common issue for the 230 cars, but I would suggest you ask in the 204 forum for the correct answer.
Why would anyone in the r230 forum confirm this for a w204? It’s a common issue for the 230 cars, but I would suggest you ask in the 204 forum for the correct answer.
probably because I've haven't ran into anyone in the w204 platform that had this problem, I will make a post but they are cars lol if someone had a similar problem to what im having why would I not confirm if that helped then regardless if they had a BUS, I just implied that its happening for my car in the w204 and if the accelerator pedal solved it
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It would not be the first time, an MB goes into limp mode and there are no codes once the car is OFF. In those cases, the vehicle MUST be scanned live, i.e. do not turn it off. Connect the scanner and search for the code, there should be at least one.
Alternatively, you can drive it with the scanner connected and monitor live data. Be careful it does not get entangled with your feet, i.e., Bluetooth or long cable.
I have read in this forum a similar issue on other platforms, and it was either the pedal unit (as discussed here) or the fuel pump/filter warning it is going away. How many miles are on your vehicle? When was the last time your fuel pump was replaced? On the fuel pump: avoid running too low on fuel, the pump overheats (since it uses fuel for cooling) and it wears out faster.
It would not be the first time, an MB goes into limp mode and there are no codes once the car is OFF. In those cases, the vehicle MUST be scanned live, i.e. do not turn it off. Connect the scanner and search for the code, there should be at least one.
Alternatively, you can drive it with the scanner connected and monitor live data. Be careful it does not get entangled with your feet, i.e., Bluetooth or long cable.
I have read in this forum a similar issue on other platforms, and it was either the pedal unit (as discussed here) or the fuel pump/filter warning it is going away. How many miles are on your vehicle? When was the last time your fuel pump was replaced? On the fuel pump: avoid running too low on fuel, the pump overheats (since it uses fuel for cooling) and it wears out faster.
The car has 69310 and is a 2013 i don’t know when the fuel filter was replaced if it even was id have to look at the carfax
11-21-2018, 09:34 AM
Now you have $2800 saved for the next repair, and probably with the independent mechanic (if needed) I assume 
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