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Buying my first MB, a 2011 SL550
Hope to pick up tomorrow
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Congrats and welcome to the forum! Don't forget to update your profile.
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Congratulations!
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Congrats, it will be one of the best days of your life. The second best will be when you sell it. Just kidding, good luck and enjoy the ride. If you want something faster, sell for a bi-turbo 600/63/65. I would stay away from the NA 63 though.
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Are you getting an extended warranty?
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Originally Posted by Eric79
(Post 7706181)
Are you getting an extended warranty?
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Thinking about it. A lot can go wrong with a $116,000 car. Carchex has quoted me on 3, 4 and 5 year warranties from $4,000-$6,0000. 10,000 miles per year.
Originally Posted by Eric79
(Post 7706181)
Are you getting an extended warranty?
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Before you get an extended warranty, go to the dealer or shop where you intend to have it serviced and ask them what they recommend.
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I am having an independent German independent shop Wednesday for a post (pre purchase) inspection
.
Originally Posted by Rudeney
(Post 7706701)
Before you get an extended warranty, go to the dealer or shop where you intend to have it serviced and ask them what they recommend.
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My happiness has been tempered by an independent repair shop post purchase inspection. Actually had two independent shops specializing in foreign repairs look at the car. The first one said nothing wrong . Excellent shape, which was confirmed by selling dealer, Mercedes of Orlando used car inspection report. Look at the report I have posted here. I made an appointment with the selling dealer and asked them to show me the items mentioned. I did see the leaking Thrust Arm Assembly and a little shinny oil on one of the struts. Didn't see issues with the other major components. Waiting to hear Monday if the dealer will repair any of the items. Hoping they willl replace the power window switch and the Thrust arm, then I will buy an aftermarket warranty. "Would appreciate your comments."
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...032ce37172.jpg Recommended repairs https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...fe29537bf7.jpg Recommended repairs https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...09e6503aec.jpg Rear Strut https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...60d6223c83.jpg Rear Strut https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...569c73a2f0.jpg Rear Strust https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...a74df0f469.jpg ThrustArm |
First of all,
So are you capable/willing to DIY? If so, then many of these things are easy. Windows Switch: I was able to fix my window switch by adding a small metal pin to act as an axle on the pivot point. It's hard to explain, but of you remove the switch and disassemble it, you can see that it has little plastic ears where it pivots and they break. So I just drilled holes there and inserted a metal pin (actually a leftover piece of a used rivet pin). If that sounds too complicated, just but a new window switch module and replace it. Removing the door paneling is not terribly difficult if you've done that sort of thing before. Some of the plastic clips might break, but they are cheap - $2 each or so. Air Filters: Mann (OEM) air filters can be bought for under $25 (for a set of 2). it takes about 15 minutes to replace them (you do need a Torx driver to take apart the housing). Air Filter Housing: Really? They want to replace the whole thing for a couple of broken clips? On the older style covers on the SL500 (M113 engine), you could by just the clips, but they are not available for the SL550 (M273) engine. However, you can buy the old style and glue it to the new cover. Part number is A1120940041. Or, just live with it. It's not liek the cover is going to fly off! Brake Fluid Flush: If they will do that on the car for $84.00, have them do it! It's a bit of a pain on the SBC system and not an easy DIY job. Thrust Arms: Yes, those probably need replacement. The bushings are fluid filled and they deteriorate and leak. You can save some money DIY'ing it and using OEM (Lemfoerder) parts. Wheel Caps/Hood Emblem: You can buy these cheap on eBay and replace yourself for 1/3 the price they are quoting. Since the wheel caps are no good, you don't ecen have to remove the wheel to replace - just drill a hole in the old one, twist in a screw and pull it out. Rear Shock: Instead of paying almost $1500 for a new strut, check into an Arnott. They sell rebuilt shocks with a lifetime warranty for around $600. Engine Mounts: There front engine mounts are fluid-filled and do wear out. Unless you feeling some bad vibration or seeing the engine jump around a lot, it's not critical to replace them. It can be a DIY job, but you do have to lift the engine and maybe remove the exhaust pipes. The rear (transmission) mounts is just a rubber bracket and very easy to DIY. |
Big THANKS Rodney! I owe you one! So helpful!!!:woowoo:
Originally Posted by Rudeney
(Post 7712927)
First of all,
So are you capable/willing to DIY? If so, then many of these things are easy. Windows Switch: I was able to fix my window switch by adding a small metal pin to act as an axle on the pivot point. It's hard to explain, but of you remove the switch and disassemble it, you can see that it has little plastic ears where it pivots and they break. So I just drilled holes there and inserted a metal pin (actually a leftover piece of a used rivet pin). If that sounds too complicated, just but a new window switch module and replace it. Removing the door paneling is not terribly difficult if you've done that sort of thing before. Some of the plastic clips might break, but they are cheap - $2 each or so. Air Filters: Mann (OEM) air filters can be bought for under $25 (for a set of 2). it takes about 15 minutes to replace them (you do need a Torx driver to take apart the housing). Air Filter Housing: Really? They want to replace the whole thing for a couple of broken clips? On the older style covers on the SL500 (M113 engine), you could by just the clips, but they are not available for the SL550 (M273) engine. However, you can buy the old style and glue it to the new cover. Part number is A1120940041. Or, just live with it. It's not liek the cover is going to fly off! Brake Fluid Flush: If they will do that on the car for $84.00, have them do it! It's a bit of a pain on the SBC system and not an easy DIY job. Thrust Arms: Yes, those probably need replacement. The bushings are fluid filled and they deteriorate and leak. You can save some money DIY'ing it and using OEM (Lemfoerder) parts. Wheel Caps/Hood Emblem: You can buy these cheap on eBay and replace yourself for 1/3 the price they are quoting. Since the wheel caps are no good, you don't ecen have to remove the wheel to replace - just drill a hole in the old one, twist in a screw and pull it out. Rear Shock: Instead of paying almost $1500 for a new strut, check into an Arnott. They sell rebuilt shocks with a lifetime warranty for around $600. Engine Mounts: There front engine mounts are fluid-filled and do wear out. Unless you feeling some bad vibration or seeing the engine jump around a lot, it's not critical to replace them. It can be a DIY job, but you do have to lift the engine and maybe remove the exhaust pipes. The rear (transmission) mounts is just a rubber bracket and very easy to DIY. |
How many miles does your 2011 have on it? I've been under mine a few times and it has 28K miles on it. Thrust arms and shocks show no leaks
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55,000 Miles
Originally Posted by danaw007
(Post 7715202)
How many miles does your 2011 have on it? I've been under mine a few times and it has 28K miles on it. Thrust arms and shocks show no leaks
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Originally Posted by gregorynp
(Post 7715203)
55,000 Miles
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Originally Posted by Rudeney
(Post 7712927)
First of all,
So are you capable/willing to DIY? If so, then many of these things are easy. Windows Switch: I was able to fix my window switch by adding a small metal pin to act as an axle on the pivot point. It's hard to explain, but of you remove the switch and disassemble it, you can see that it has little plastic ears where it pivots and they break. So I just drilled holes there and inserted a metal pin (actually a leftover piece of a used rivet pin). If that sounds too complicated, just but a new window switch module and replace it. Removing the door paneling is not terribly difficult if you've done that sort of thing before. Some of the plastic clips might break, but they are cheap - $2 each or so. Air Filters: Mann (OEM) air filters can be bought for under $25 (for a set of 2). it takes about 15 minutes to replace them (you do need a Torx driver to take apart the housing). Air Filter Housing: Really? They want to replace the whole thing for a couple of broken clips? On the older style covers on the SL500 (M113 engine), you could by just the clips, but they are not available for the SL550 (M273) engine. However, you can buy the old style and glue it to the new cover. Part number is A1120940041. Or, just live with it. It's not liek the cover is going to fly off! Brake Fluid Flush: If they will do that on the car for $84.00, have them do it! It's a bit of a pain on the SBC system and not an easy DIY job. Thrust Arms: Yes, those probably need replacement. The bushings are fluid filled and they deteriorate and leak. You can save some money DIY'ing it and using OEM (Lemfoerder) parts. Wheel Caps/Hood Emblem: You can buy these cheap on eBay and replace yourself for 1/3 the price they are quoting. Since the wheel caps are no good, you don't ecen have to remove the wheel to replace - just drill a hole in the old one, twist in a screw and pull it out. Rear Shock: Instead of paying almost $1500 for a new strut, check into an Arnott. They sell rebuilt shocks with a lifetime warranty for around $600. Engine Mounts: There front engine mounts are fluid-filled and do wear out. Unless you feeling some bad vibration or seeing the engine jump around a lot, it's not critical to replace them. It can be a DIY job, but you do have to lift the engine and maybe remove the exhaust pipes. The rear (transmission) mounts is just a rubber bracket and very easy to DIY. |
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