SL/R230: Valve Block Question
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 436
Likes: 79
Former R230, W220 and W221 owner
Valve Block Question
2003 SL500
Front left has started to drop after sitting for 2-3 days. I know Mercedes states this is normal when the car has sat for a few days but it has started to drop significantl- before it would be drop maybe half an inch after 2 days- now the wheel is going under the fender lol
No ABC lights and the car raises up normally after starting the car but I think my front valve block may be on its last leg. I have a valve block that was in my previous CL which I think is compatible with the SL. In any case, does switching out the valve block require programming or is it similar to say the accumulators where you can swap it out and keep it moving?
Front left has started to drop after sitting for 2-3 days. I know Mercedes states this is normal when the car has sat for a few days but it has started to drop significantl- before it would be drop maybe half an inch after 2 days- now the wheel is going under the fender lol
No ABC lights and the car raises up normally after starting the car but I think my front valve block may be on its last leg. I have a valve block that was in my previous CL which I think is compatible with the SL. In any case, does switching out the valve block require programming or is it similar to say the accumulators where you can swap it out and keep it moving?
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 746
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From: Melbourne, Australia
2005 SL 500 R230
The valve blocks are plug and play. The valve block is just that: a static block of aluminium; no coding required.
You have a leak in one of the blocking valves causing fluid in the strut to leak back to the tank. If you have a known good valve block then you could just change it, but it might be more time-efficient to rebuild the valves first, and replace the filter in the tank while you're at it. The tiniest bit of crud in the system can cause a leak.
You have a leak in one of the blocking valves causing fluid in the strut to leak back to the tank. If you have a known good valve block then you could just change it, but it might be more time-efficient to rebuild the valves first, and replace the filter in the tank while you're at it. The tiniest bit of crud in the system can cause a leak.
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Joined: Aug 2020
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From: Gretna, NE
'03 SL55 Black, '03 SL500's Aegean, Mars Red, Tazanite, Alabaster, '11 S550 Flint Gray
Even if the CL block was 'good' when you removed it, take the time to put in a rebuild kit. They are not expensive and if it has original o-rings they will be failing soon. Pull the valves and see if you have teflon backing rings. If you do, you just need viton o-rings. If you have black backing rings, order a kit with teflon backers.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 436
Likes: 79
Former R230, W220 and W221 owner
Even if the CL block was 'good' when you removed it, take the time to put in a rebuild kit. They are not expensive and if it has original o-rings they will be failing soon. Pull the valves and see if you have teflon backing rings. If you do, you just need viton o-rings. If you have black backing rings, order a kit with teflon backers.
this?
https://www.diybenzrepair.com/shop/p...plete-kit-32pc
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 1,329
Likes: 365
From: Gretna, NE
'03 SL55 Black, '03 SL500's Aegean, Mars Red, Tazanite, Alabaster, '11 S550 Flint Gray
