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I am stuck on final trunk closure during retractable closure.
I have been working on my retractable roof for months. I have replaced 9 of the 11 cylinders, I had the thing working but I noticed that the small tonneau roof flap was not working. I replaced the broken cable today. But now the the hardtop closure procedure stalls at the point where the roof is completely closed and the flaps are supposed to retract and the trunk lid is supposed to close.
Is there some micro-switch that is not closing (maybe from the small tonneau flap) that is not engaging and allowing the process to complete?
These photos show the stall point where the flaps won't retract and the trunk deck lid won't lower and the cable for the small tonneau that I replaced.
S69/1, or more likely, the plastic alignment pin on the right front corner of the roof that actuates it. Also, did you replace the gas spring in the shelf? If not, you are at risk of breaking the cable again.
Thanks to you and Mike. YES, it is the S69/1 switch. I just went and looked. I should have thought of this, but it was working so well. My originals (to me) got broken with me manually opening and closing the roof. I had a good car friend who does 3-D printing make a few new ones. The "pattern" is on line. I siliconed these into place. But the one for S69/1 broke! Just saw this. And that was after it working fine for many operations. MB does not offer this as a replacement piece. I do have one spare lock mechanism arm but these plastic alignment "covers" are so tightened into place you can't get them off without totally mangling them. I might be able to get the one I have off with some instructions. I have already tried and it is splitting.
My friend who 3-D printed these said using a marine grade two stage epoxy might give these thing some added strength. Comments?
Is there another piece you fellows can recommend to substitute the original? Thanks!
BTW Mike, mine is Aegean also. I just had all kinds of body work done. Including replacing the whole front bumper. So I don't think I can re-afix the the Swiss license plate. Which I love.
U can replace the right side latch arm that contains the pin for the s/91/1 used or new on ebay. I saw someone used a ball point pin tube to replace the pin.
U can replace the right side latch arm that contains the pin for the s/91/1 used or new on ebay. I saw someone used a ball point pin tube to replace the pin.
Thanks, I am not trying to rig anything but if I could avoid replacing the entire right control arm that would be great. Plus, the left "guide" pen needs to be replaced also. I am thinking of getting my 3-D printer friend to print me more and re-enforcing them with that marine two stage epoxy to strengthen them.
BTW, you are in NC. Where abouts? My mom's family is from Davidson, Cornelius, Huntersville, Statesville, Denver, Hickory and Charlotte, etc. The Cashion, McCall and Brotherton families. Mom was born in Cornelius. Her parents the same in Cornelius and Davidson. Around 1900.
Most home printers are not capable of really doing 'engineered' plastics that will have sufficient strength to hold up in an application like this. I would suggest taking the file and having it printed in nylon or similar material. I really like the HP fusion prints with glass bead nylon. The original is a snap fit over a ball feature on the pin, so pretty difficult to remove.
U can replace the right side latch arm that contains the pin for the s/91/1 used or new on ebay. I saw someone used a ball point pin tube to replace the pin.
First, thanks to you and Mike. I did a test where I cut a small piece of reinforced hose to act as a temporary "peg" for the S69/1 micro-switch. It made everything work fine. I will have to come up with some more permanent solution. Tho maybe not. I does not appear to me they these pegs don't do much for the roof closure "alignment." The flexibility could be a benefit. Comments welcome,
Most home printers are not capable of really doing 'engineered' plastics that will have sufficient strength to hold up in an application like this. I would suggest taking the file and having it printed in nylon or similar material. I really like the HP fusion prints with glass bead nylon. The original is a snap fit over a ball feature on the pin, so pretty difficult to remove.
Most home printers are not capable of really doing 'engineered' plastics that will have sufficient strength to hold up in an application like this. I would suggest taking the file and having it printed in nylon or similar material. I really like the HP fusion prints with glass bead nylon. The original is a snap fit over a ball feature on the pin, so pretty difficult to remove.
For you and Agean,
A question that came to mind, should you fill the top hydraulic pump when the roof is up or down? BTW, this is the first time since Jan 24 that the top has consistently worked. Hallelujah.
S69/1, Did you replace the gas spring in the shelf? If not, you are at risk of breaking the cable again.
Mike, I did not replace that strut but I’ve got it out of the car now and I’m trying to find a replacement. The manufacturer is Stabilus which seems to be used on a lot of European cars. My problem is finding a source with the original part number. It comes up in Google searches but not really a location to buy one. The number that comes up is 192848 0050N. The last five digits after the space don’t seem to make a difference. Do you by any chance know of a number and brand for replacement? Thanks.
It's not too bad from any of the discount dealers. I have designed a replacement pin, but I haven't been able to test the fit. Once I do that and make any necessary adjustments, I will have them for sale.
It's not too bad from any of the discount dealers. I have designed a replacement pin, but I haven't been able to test the fit. Once I do that and make any necessary adjustments, I will have them for sale.
Thanks for those comments Mike. I did find a couple of aftermarket suppliers but I ended up by finding the Mercedes part number. The price is pretty compatible seeing that I have a wholesalers account with my local Mercedes-Benz shop. The number is 230–790–00–79. This is part number 40 in the attached Mercedes-Benz diagram. My price was $60 total as I do not get charged any shipping or sales tax. Doesn’t seem too bad for an official Mercedes-Benz part.
Now I have another question. When I replaced the cable I had the car in the manual raise roof mode. It allowed me good access to the cable mounting parts. But now that everything has been reinstalled with the addition of some rebuilt hydraulic cylinders the system will only work with the electronic control switch. Do you have an idea as to
what would be the best way to get at and replace this gas hydraulic lift?
Part number 40 in this diagram is Mercedes parts number 230–790–00–79
Question since you have just done all the cylinder swaps, what other while your in there items can you think of? Seems the cable and gas strut for the flap are 2 items. Anything else?
I just replaced my leaking top lock cylinder yesterday only to have the left trunk lock cylinder fail today. I knew this was a potential outcome and would lead to replacing all of the cylinders so that is the route I am going to have to take unfortunately.
Any advice for some of the trickier hose routing scenarios? I found doing the Top cylinder it was beneficial to first remove the left cover just inside the quarter window area. Went from damn near impossible to somewhat simple.
And congratulations on having a working top again.
Question since you have just done all the cylinder swaps, what other while your in there items can you think of? Seems the cable and gas strut for the flap are 2 items. Anything else?
I just replaced my leaking top lock cylinder yesterday only to have the left trunk lock cylinder fail today. I knew this was a potential outcome and would lead to replacing all of the cylinders so that is the route I am going to have to take unfortunately.
Any advice for some of the trickier hose routing scenarios? I found doing the Top cylinder it was beneficial to first remove the left cover just inside the quarter window area. Went from damn near impossible to somewhat simple.
And congratulations on having a working top again.
Thanks for joining in. My comment would be that people need to decide if they want to replace the cylinders individually or in groups or if they just want to do the whole thing at one time. I chose the former and I don’t know if I made the right choice. My car is a 2004 so it is 21 years old. Sometimes when you have one cylinder rebuilt the increased pressure at the other cylinders is just too much and then those start leaking. As of right now, I have replaced eight of the 11 cylinders. Part of me says go ahead and replace the other three but as it is working I’m hesitant to do that. I would suggest adding a few ounces of AT-205 seal re-conditioner to your fluid. It has the highest reported reviews for helping old gaskets maintain their seals. I did this with mine. I have used this product successfully in my 1951 Buick Roadmaster for years which has constant problems with the transmission to axle tube seals.
The “cable” only needed replacing because I kept manually opening and closing the roof. That package shelf flap would get hung up and the tension caused that cable to fail. Also, when you manually open and close the roof you often times break the two little pegs that help align the forward aspect of the edge into the a pillar. When the car does this on its own it does a better job of alignment. You cannot just buy those replacement pegs. I had someone 3-D print them for me but they just didn’t hold up. Believe it or not, I replaced them with some thread enhanced black tubing that has some flexibility. This seems to give a little hoses a bit of flexibility while those pegs go into the a pillar. That seems to make a lot of difference to me. If you look back in this thread you can see the pictures of those flexible thread enforced hoses. By the way, in my opinion, those black pegs don’t do much for the alignment process. The alignment process is mainly accomplished with the hooks that lock the roof into the a pillar. But that peg on the right is needed to close the micro switch.
I am including the pictures of that flexible hose and how I have it fitted. It has been suggested that maybe I could get those printed in a more nylon based polymer. But I kind of like the way these work.
Thanks for joining in. My comment would be that people need to decide if they want to replace the cylinders individually or in groups or if they just want to do the whole thing at one time. I chose the former and I don’t know if I made the right choice. My car is a 2004 so it is 21 years old. Sometimes when you have one cylinder rebuilt the increased pressure at the other cylinders is just too much and then those start leaking. As of right now, I have replaced eight of the 11 cylinders. Part of me says go ahead and replace the other three but as it is working I’m hesitant to do that. I would suggest adding a few ounces of AT-205 seal re-conditioner to your fluid. It has the highest reported reviews for helping old gaskets maintain their seals. I did this with mine. I have used this product successfully in my 1951 Buick Roadmaster for years which has constant problems with the transmission to axle tube seals.
The “cable” only needed replacing because I kept manually opening and closing the roof. That package shelf flap would get hung up and the tension caused that cable to fail. Also, when you manually open and close the roof you often times break the two little pegs that help align the forward aspect of the edge into the a pillar for Home window tinting. When the car does this on its own it does a better job of alignment. You cannot just buy those replacement pegs. I had someone 3-D print them for me but they just didn’t hold up. Believe it or not, I replaced them with some thread enhanced black tubing that has some flexibility. This seems to give a little hoses a bit of flexibility while those pegs go into the a pillar. That seems to make a lot of difference to me. If you look back in this thread you can see the pictures of those flexible thread enforced hoses. By the way, in my opinion, those black pegs don’t do much for the alignment process. The alignment process is mainly accomplished with the hooks that lock the roof into the a pillar. But that peg on the right is needed to close the micro switch.
I am including the pictures of that flexible hose and how I have it fitted. It has been suggested that maybe I could get those printed in a more nylon based polymer. But I kind of like the way these work.
Yes, your issue is almost certainly a microswitch not engaging, likely the one linked to the small tonneau flap you just repaired. If the switch isn’t closing properly, the control module won’t allow the flaps to retract or the trunk lid to finish closing. Check the flap switch for alignment, function, or damage, and test adjust or replace it if needed.
Yes, your issue is almost certainly a microswitch not engaging, likely the one linked to the small tonneau flap you just repaired. If the switch isn’t closing properly, the control module won’t allow the flaps to retract or the trunk lid to finish closing. Check the flap switch for alignment, function, or damage, and test adjust or replace it if needed.
With all due respect, I don’t think you’ve read the comments. Your comment is number 18 and I explained the problem in the comment immediately before yours, comment number 17.The switch was identified way back. And it’s not the one on the tonneau flap you mentioned.
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