SL-Class (R231) 2013 on: Discussion on the SL550

SL/R231: Went to start car this morning....

Old Mar 21, 2022 | 09:00 AM
  #1  
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Went to start car this morning....

I was leaving the gym this morning and went to start my car...nothing. No lights, no noises, just dead. Open and closed the door, dash lights came on, car still didn't start. After doing this a few times the car cranked. Went home and checked the battery, it's strong. Any idea on what happened and if I can fix it myself? Crconsulting, I'm hoping you can weigh in.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jrupp
I was leaving the gym this morning and went to start my car...nothing. No lights, no noises, just dead. Open and closed the door, dash lights came on, car still didn't start. After doing this a few times the car cranked. Went home and checked the battery, it's strong. Any idea on what happened and if I can fix it myself? Crconsulting, I'm hoping you can weigh in.

Thanks!
Sounds like it didn’t recognize your key.
How are the batteries? (Key fob)
Other thing that comes to mind is, did you have the key in your pocket as you were working out? Perspiration can affect electronics 😉

Last edited by crconsulting; Mar 21, 2022 at 10:20 AM.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by crconsulting
Sounds like it didn’t recognize your key.
How are the batteries? (Key fob)
Don't know, I'll swap out fobs at lunch, replace the batteries and we'll see. I mentioned before that I leave the keys in the car. Would that drain them? Would they be communicating with the car the entire time they're in there?
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jrupp
Don't know, I'll swap out fobs at lunch, replace the batteries and we'll see. I mentioned before that I leave the keys in the car. Would that drain them? Would they be communicating with the car the entire time they're in there?
Yeah that will lead to a shorter battery life in the FOB.
Also see my edit above about perspiration. I’m a cyclist and have first hand experience on how much perspiration can damage electronics. 🙁
Perspiration can be pretty corrosive.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by crconsulting
... I’m a cyclist and have first hand experience on how much perspiration can damage electronics. 🙁
Perspiration can be pretty corrosive.
TMI
🤮
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by crconsulting
Sounds like it didn’t recognize your key.
Would he get a "Key not recognized" message?
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 12:50 PM
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I didn't get any message because the car appeared to be "dead." No lights, buzzers, or any sound at all. When I opened and closed the door a few times the car came back to life. Very weird and a bit disconcerting...
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 04:00 PM
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Sounds similar to my previous E550. I hope these cars don't suffer from an ESL failure. The Electronic Steering Lock is a notorious issue with the W207 E550. Same symptoms as you described, car is just dead, doesn't respond, no lights, nothing. Then it will just start like nothing ever happened.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JettaRed
Would he get a "Key not recognized" message?
Originally Posted by griza
Sounds similar to my previous E550. I hope these cars don't suffer from an ESL failure. The Electronic Steering Lock is a notorious issue with the W207 E550. Same symptoms as you described, car is just dead, doesn't respond, no lights, nothing. Then it will just start like nothing ever happened.

The R231 (as well as faceliff E550’s) use a different EIS. As well as DAS4. R231’s is not interchangeable either. While nothing is impossible, I have yet to hear/see/read of an EIS failure on R231.
OP stores his key in his car, which discharges key batteries quicker.
I would start with the easiest solutions first. Switch fobs, Yes, it sould trigger a key not found but I would always try that as a first step in diagnostics. If it is an EIS failure, it will store a code. So if it happens again, I would see if you can use your fob as a key in the ignition. I would at that point, also see what codes are stored.
Also jrupp, Did you unlock the car with your FOB?

Last edited by crconsulting; Mar 21, 2022 at 05:08 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2022 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by crconsulting
The R231 (as well as faceliff E550’s) use a different EIS. As well as DAS4. R231’s is not interchangeable either. While nothing is impossible, I have yet to hear/see/read of an EIS failure on R231.
OP stores his key in his car, which discharges key batteries quicker.
I would start with the easiest solutions first. Switch fobs, Yes, it sould trigger a key not found but I would always try that as a first step in diagnostics. If it is an EIS failure, it will store a code. So if it happens again, I would see if you can use your fob as a key in the ignition. I would at that point, also see what codes are stored.
Also jrupp, Did you unlock the car with your FOB?
I don't lock the car...I know, I know, I have an expensive car and I leave it unlocked with the keys in it. Don't judge! I switched keys at lunch and will start carrying the keys with me (and perhaps lock the car) and see if the problem reappears.
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Old Mar 23, 2022 | 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by crconsulting
Sounds like it didn’t recognize your key.
How are the batteries? (Key fob)
Other thing that comes to mind is, did you have the key in your pocket as you were working out? Perspiration can affect electronics 😉
Don’t know about the USA but here they are supposed to replace the batteries at every service.
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Old Mar 23, 2022 | 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jrupp
I don't lock the car...I know, I know, I have an expensive car and I leave it unlocked with the keys in it. Don't judge! I switched keys at lunch and will start carrying the keys with me (and perhaps lock the car) and see if the problem reappears.
Hey! Where do you live? 😈
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Old Mar 23, 2022 | 06:53 PM
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So, today the red battery light came on on my dash leading me to believe this is either an ECM or alternator issue. Battery has good charge. Crconsulting I'm sure hoping you can weigh in on this...
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Old Mar 23, 2022 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Ruppster
So, today the red battery light came on on my dash leading me to believe this is either an ECM or alternator issue. Battery has good charge. Crconsulting I'm sure hoping you can weigh in on this...

Start with the basics before moving straight to amputation 😀
Battery can show good voltage but still need replacement. Have it load tested first. and/or see what codes are stored.
Also not sure you mentioned it but, how old is your (main) battery?

https://batteryfever.com/

Last edited by crconsulting; Mar 23, 2022 at 07:54 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2022 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by crconsulting
Start with the basics before moving straight to amputation 😀
Battery can show good voltage but still need replacement. Have it load tested first. and/or see what codes are stored.
Also not sure you mentioned it but, how old is your (main) battery?

https://batteryfever.com/
Taking it to my indie first thing in the morning. He went over the car when I got it and we both recall noticing the battery was fairly new. He wants to see what codes are stored and we'll go from there. I very much appreciate the tip about load testing it. Thanks for your continued input. If there's ever anything about guitar playing I can help you with let me know!
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Old Mar 23, 2022 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jrupp
If there's ever anything about guitar playing I can help you with let me know!
If only I had been blessed with such a talent. Realize it takes a lot of hard work too!
Big Al Di Meola and John McLaughlin fan though. 👍 (probably showing my age 😀 )

Hopefully the stored codes will give your indie some insight on what’s going on there.
You may have to record them & clear to see if anything triggers an immediate code once cleared.

Good Luck
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Old Mar 23, 2022 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by crconsulting
If only I had been blessed with such a talent. Realize it takes a lot of hard work too!
Big Al Di Meola and John McLaughlin fan though. 👍 (probably showing my age 😀 )

Hopefully the stored codes will give your indie some insight on what’s going on there.
You may have to record them & clear to see if anything triggers an immediate code once cleared.

Good Luck
You have excellent taste in cars and music. When I was in college and beginning my guitar journey (had just dropped out of college to chase a record deal with my band) a routed my brand new Les Paul so I could modify it to have the same pickups as Al Di Meola. Unfortunately, I learned that sounding like him did not equate to playing like him. Expensive lesson...
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Old Mar 24, 2022 | 10:30 PM
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An update to the saga, took the car to my indy, mentioned the recommendations/observations by MB forum members. He put a full load on both batteries, ran his scanner, drove the car for 30 minutes and...nothing. The car behaved as it should, both batteries had full charges, NO codes showed up on his scanner. He didn't charge me anything but seem genuinely puzzled. He's very familiar with this engine but not as much of an expert on the car's electronics.

With that in mind I made an appointment with an indy next week in our capital city about two hours away. I used this shop when I had my 1986 560 SL and was impressed with their work and my interaction with them. I realize this SL is a different beast from my R107 but they assured me they had the same software as the dealer and could find any gremlins. I have set up several business meetings in town that day so I'll drop the car off, go to work, and hopefully get some good news by the end of the day. Fingers crossed. Thanks for all your input.
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Old Mar 25, 2022 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jrupp
but they assured me they had the same software as the dealer and could find any gremlins.
And that’s the key right there….
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard people say they scanned their car and no codes were present. Following a scan with XENTRY, half a dozen codes came up.
Make sure they’re using XENTRY. If they’re using the same software as the dealer, that should be what they’re using. Probably passthru version, but that’s fine.
Battery would have been an easy one though 🙁. Make sure they check all the auxiliary connections on the trunk battery cables making sure they are tight and check the battery terminal relay box (see pic on eBay link) to make sure everything is tight (they’ll know where it is). If they’re competent, they’ll start with the basics first. Loose or corroded connectors are the cause of many intermittent electrical issues. (Kinda like an old Marshall Stack 😀 ) Has the car ever been jump started?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123823560096


Good Luck

Last edited by crconsulting; Mar 25, 2022 at 12:16 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2022 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by crconsulting
And that’s the key right there….
I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard people say they scanned their car and no codes were present. Following a scan with XENTRY, half a dozen codes came up.
Make sure they’re using XENTRY. If they’re using the same software as the dealer, that should be what they’re using. Probably passthru version, but that’s fine.
Battery would have been an easy one though 🙁. Make sure they check all the auxiliary connections on the trunk battery cables making sure they are tight and check the battery terminal relay box (see pic on eBay link) to make sure everything is tight (they’ll know where it is). If they’re competent, they’ll start with the basics first. Loose or corroded connectors are the cause of many intermittent electrical issues. (Kinda like an old Marshall Stack 😀 ) Has the car ever been jump started?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123823560096


Good Luck
Don't know if the car's been jump started. It may have been since it only had 5,900 miles, must have sat for long periods of time between drives. On a completely unrelated note...here's my latest guitar!
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