Option 675 Trickle Charger Prewiring
 

Hi All,

Does anybody use the trickle charger port in the boot? My 2013 SL63 came with option 675 Trickle Charger Prewiring which includes a magnetic 'magcode' connector in the boot and a couple of cables to hook it up to a CTEK.

A couple of questions

1) You seem to have to remove both the boot solid floor and also the liner underneath that to access the plug on the vehicle, it seems very inconvenient for something that is supposed to make life more convenient!
2) The cable obviously has to run into the boot from outside, I have powered boot closing, what are you supposed to do? Leave the boot open? Let the boot lower once the hydraulics have powered down, just click the close button?

On a Ferrari California they have fitted the connecter on the outside of the car just above where the license plate goes, why didn't Mercedes do this, much better idea!

Cheers,
Sam

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...s-img_9846.jpg

Interesting. The cable on the right looks kinda flat and the one on the left looks round. If the flatter one is the one that goes outside, I think you should be able to use it with the trunk closed.

Personally, I have not found the need to use a trickle charger on my SL400. But I assume AMG cars have a lot of electrical consumers still even when turned off.

trickle charging vs. CLEAN GND PATH
 

Connecting the car to a CTEK is always a good udea to keep battery in top condition and running currents low.

You can assume needing trickle connection if you won't drive within 2 weeks.

Alternators and batteries serve two different purpose while driving. While it is possible to charge a low battery while driving, it is best not to go that route to limit heat and current if you can avoid it. Battery sensor vomes with a internal temperature sensor. It is smart enough to back down charge rate when battery is overheated - Trickle charge is the opposite of that: super well charged with super low current for super low internal resistance.

Make a note to CLEAN UP YOUR ENGINE-CHASSIS STRAP. it's a troublemaker in your power system. When the battery is discharged and the exposed strap is oxidized, it becomes the No1 glitches producer from high currents.

That leads to disrupting many CAN modules, ultimately detunes the ECU/TCU performance and drain batteries.

100% of the electric power only comes from the alternator after starting. It has to flow through the exposed strap connection. MB does not feature a reliable dual strap !

So love your CTEK but keep your main GND path serviced will known incentives.
:zoom:

Why the hell can't I remember my previous posts? It's creepy when I think I'm reading something for the first time and see I have already posted something. 🤪