SL-Class (R231) 2013 on: Discussion on the SL550

SL/R231: OEM Battery life

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Old May 16, 2025 | 07:15 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by GMAN12345
I saw the guide and it doesn’t mention anything about sniping off the clips that attach the cage. Also; should I buy the OEM or go for the Duracell brand?
I bought mine from Amazon. Sold by a Mercedes dealer in NJ as I recall. Installled it myself.
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Old May 16, 2025 | 07:40 AM
  #27  
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Did you have to cut plastic parts from the battery cover?

Originally Posted by rmorin49
I bought mine from Amazon. Sold by a Mercedes dealer in NJ as I recall. Installled it myself.
Did you have to cut plastic parts from the battery cover or did it just come off after removing the bolts ?
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Old May 16, 2025 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by GMAN12345
Did you have to cut plastic parts from the battery cover or did it just come off after removing the bolts ?
TBH don't remember cutting any plastic. The over engineering of the battery cage is ridiculous IMHO.
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Old May 16, 2025 | 08:06 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by GMAN12345
Did you have to cut plastic parts from the battery cover or did it just come off after removing the bolts ?
You have to loosen adjacent trim to avoid cutting the tabs. There are videos out there on how to do that.
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Old May 17, 2025 | 08:15 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by GMAN12345
Did you have to cut plastic parts from the battery cover or did it just come off after removing the bolts ?
Don't cut any tabs. Not sure why the plastic cage is there -- it doesn't keep anything in place.

To remove the cage, lift and remove the rear storage with the sliding door. It comes right off. you may need to tilt the forward part up. Then carefully unclip the trim that attaches to the center console by pulling it away from the console FROM THE MIDDLE of the trim and NOT the end. It is flexible. Once detached, just move it out of the way enough to get the cage out. Reverse the process to get everything back in place.

Seach YouTube for how to remove the center console trim.

Last edited by JettaRed; May 17, 2025 at 08:44 AM.
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Old May 17, 2025 | 08:21 AM
  #31  
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More generally, the Aux battery's purpose is to enable the ECO Start/Stop for work. It apparently provides power to the external transmission fluid pump so that the tranny is presurized to be ready when the car starts up again. ECO Start/Stop is stupid and damaging. It was never mandatory in the US, but intended to hit mileage targets mandated by the EPA. The EPA doesn't care if it's rules damage your car.
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Old May 17, 2025 | 08:24 AM
  #32  
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Old May 17, 2025 | 09:00 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by JettaRed
Hurrah!!
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Old Jul 18, 2025 | 06:15 PM
  #34  
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The Aux battery also powers the keyless entry system receiver when the car is off/locked. I've never had any problem with the way the start/stop system works, which is flawlessly. I don't drive the car much, so it's not really saving me much money, but the potential for reducing emissions is real if all cars are using a similar system. I may be the lone ranger here for caring about such things, but I can't help it.
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Old Jul 19, 2025 | 10:39 AM
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Aux Battery Installation: cutting plastic frame.

Bit late to this but, yes, I did make a couple of cuts. No biggy.

Last edited by Bitbytr; Jul 19, 2025 at 10:41 AM. Reason: Reply not attached to original question therefore utterly out of context
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Old Jul 19, 2025 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Manhattan
The Aux battery also powers the keyless entry system receiver when the car is off/locked. I've never had any problem with the way the start/stop system works, which is flawlessly. I don't drive the car much, so it's not really saving me much money, but the potential for reducing emissions is real if all cars are using a similar system. I may be the lone ranger here for caring about such things, but I can't help it.
You're not alone. There ae good reasons for the ECO system–being a blowhard is one, I'm guessing.
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Old Jul 20, 2025 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Bitbytr
You're not alone. There ae good reasons for the ECO system–being a blowhard is one, I'm guessing.
Not sure how to take this...
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Old Jul 22, 2025 | 11:55 AM
  #38  
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Not aimed at you for sure just an observation and apologies if that wasn't clear. It's just that I fail to understand why it is a "stupid" and "damaging" function when it can–and does–save emissions, a little gas and hasn't been proven damaging except to those whose feelings are hurt by "gummint" intervention for the greater good. Now, if it interferes with one's desperate need for instant acceleration from that ol' red light in town, turn it off: the button's right there next to the tranny (oops: there's another controversy brewing LOL) shift-pattern selection button. No biggy ... certainly not a political issue.

Is it?
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Old Jul 22, 2025 | 03:17 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Bitbytr
Not aimed at you for sure just an observation and apologies if that wasn't clear. It's just that I fail to understand why it is a "stupid" and "damaging" function when it can–and does–save emissions, a little gas and hasn't been proven damaging except to those whose feelings are hurt by "gummint" intervention for the greater good. Now, if it interferes with one's desperate need for instant acceleration from that ol' red light in town, turn it off: the button's right there next to the tranny (oops: there's another controversy brewing LOL) shift-pattern selection button. No biggy ... certainly not a political issue.

Is it?
Not to me...
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Old Jul 28, 2025 | 08:02 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Markrtn7
2017 SL450 50k miles, still have both original batteries. Not a daily driver, but use a CTEK on main. Am I pushing my luck?

As a followup, I used this OBDII scanner to check the condition of my main battery directly from it's terminals in the trunk. The date code on the negative post is 51/16. I think I'm good based on this. Does anyone have more experience with this type of diagnostic, to where I shouldn't be so confident?
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Old Jul 29, 2025 | 09:11 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Markrtn7
As a followup, I used this OBDII scanner to check the condition of my main battery directly from it's terminals in the trunk. The date code on the negative post is 51/16. I think I'm good based on this. Does anyone have more experience with this type of diagnostic, to where I shouldn't be so confident?

You should have the battery either load tested or resistance tested. Voltage isn’t always an indicator of a healthy AGM battery.
it can easily read 12 volts and still be weak cranking amperage wise….

here’s some battery info
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ent-guide.html

MB battery conductance tester
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ml#post8608015

Good Luck

Last edited by crconsulting; Jul 29, 2025 at 09:18 AM.
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Old Jul 30, 2025 | 08:01 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by crconsulting
You should have the battery either load tested or resistance tested. Voltage isn’t always an indicator of a healthy AGM battery.
it can easily read 12 volts and still be weak cranking amperage wise….

here’s some battery info
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ent-guide.html

MB battery conductance tester
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...ml#post8608015

Good Luck

​​​​​​​Great info, thanks!
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Old Jul 30, 2025 | 09:12 AM
  #43  
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Here is a source for the auxiliary battery.
Mercedes Auxiliary Battery - Genuine Mercedes 0009829608 | FCP Euro https://share.google/ZfBn2Uc7wwhG85LQ9
I was able to replace mine so installation isn't too difficult.

Last edited by rmorin49; Jul 30, 2025 at 09:13 AM.
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